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Mep-803a new purchase without filters/fluids and batteries
- Thread starter chilbun28
- Start date
- 366
- 769
- 93
- Location
- Roxboro, North Carolina USA
This forum has all of the generator Technical Manuals (TM)
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/forums/generator-and-electrical-tms.121/
This is for the MEP-803A. The TM that ends in -24 is the parts TM
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-803a-all-the-tms-you-need.175591/
Try to find it in the parts TM. I’ll help you if you can’t find it or perhaps someone else will jump in.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/forums/generator-and-electrical-tms.121/
This is for the MEP-803A. The TM that ends in -24 is the parts TM
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-803a-all-the-tms-you-need.175591/
Try to find it in the parts TM. I’ll help you if you can’t find it or perhaps someone else will jump in.
Start in this thread.
MEP-802A MEP-803A Filters and Parts | SteelSoldiers
2nd post has quick links to important stuff.
3rd post has links to all the TM's you need.
Welcome.
MEP-802A MEP-803A Filters and Parts | SteelSoldiers
2nd post has quick links to important stuff.
3rd post has links to all the TM's you need.
Welcome.
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- Burgkunstadt, Germany
Take a nut that fits the threads, down to a good store that has nuts and bolts. Point at the nut, and tell them you want a wing nut the same size.
And DO read the whole thread Daybreak listed.
And DO read the whole thread Daybreak listed.
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- MA
Yeah the replacement doesn't need to be phenolic like the OEM, just get a wingnut (or a regular nut and a washer) and call it a day.
I found it on the schematic attached in the thread. I ordered it from the part number listed. The wing nut has a gasket formed to it which keeps a seal around the mating surface of the filter which I could have probably done without but want to play it safe.
- 3,578
- 5,143
- 113
- Location
- MA
Most replacement air filters come with a new rubber backed washer that does the same thing.
robertsears1
Active member
- 255
- 118
- 43
- Location
- Near Apex/NC
If you have never run one of these, make sure to follow the starting instructions EXACTLY (should be under the flip up cover over the controls). You have to hold the switch in start longer than you are probably used to and it won’t hurt anything. Look up threads about putting a unit in service. Take pictures all around to include inside the engine area and drop the control panel down and take pictures behind there, folks should be able to spot things that may need looking at before you try it. NEVER IDLE one of these sets. Someone should be able to give you a ballpark on how far the throttle should be preset out. If you are familiar, ignore everything I wrote.
Safety first. "Ground the generator"
Coolant all full?
NOTE: Spin-on fuel filter is sometimes a bear to get off. It actually does come off. The cup canister fuel filter has a little tiny rubber gasket around the top of the cup. You can use a dab of grease to hold it inplace, and make sure it goes up into the little recess all the way around. OK, oil filter on, oil filled.
The fuel system is a return to tank circle. All new fuel filters in place, Dead crank switch to "Normal", turn the S-1 (start switch) and wait. You will hear a hollow type sound, and after a few minutes, the sound will change to a fuller sound. That means the fuel filters are all full of fuel, and any excess is returned to the tank.
But wait..
In the engine compartment, you can hit the "Dead Crank Switch" for a few seconds to get the oil moved around, and then put it back to normal.
Have a AMM meter ready, have maybe something to plug in to the convenience outlet. (10amp max) circuit breaker for it, and inside the control cube, behind the outlet.
Fresh diesel in system. Maybe some additives too.
Be prepared to shut it off.
Is the "Fuse mod in place"?
Yes, continue
When starting, always pause a moment at "Prime & Run" turn to start and hold it there. Keep holding until oil pressure rises. Release.
Check all gauges, check and adjust speed, adjust AMM meter selection to 1 phase, have it running around 61Hz, and 240volts. Use your meter and check the convenience outlet.
Close the circuit interrupter, should have a green light.
Use your meter to check lugs.
Look over the fuel return lines. They start weeping fuel. All that is in that thread too.
Coolant all full?
NOTE: Spin-on fuel filter is sometimes a bear to get off. It actually does come off. The cup canister fuel filter has a little tiny rubber gasket around the top of the cup. You can use a dab of grease to hold it inplace, and make sure it goes up into the little recess all the way around. OK, oil filter on, oil filled.
The fuel system is a return to tank circle. All new fuel filters in place, Dead crank switch to "Normal", turn the S-1 (start switch) and wait. You will hear a hollow type sound, and after a few minutes, the sound will change to a fuller sound. That means the fuel filters are all full of fuel, and any excess is returned to the tank.
But wait..
In the engine compartment, you can hit the "Dead Crank Switch" for a few seconds to get the oil moved around, and then put it back to normal.
Have a AMM meter ready, have maybe something to plug in to the convenience outlet. (10amp max) circuit breaker for it, and inside the control cube, behind the outlet.
Fresh diesel in system. Maybe some additives too.
Be prepared to shut it off.
Is the "Fuse mod in place"?
Yes, continue
When starting, always pause a moment at "Prime & Run" turn to start and hold it there. Keep holding until oil pressure rises. Release.
Check all gauges, check and adjust speed, adjust AMM meter selection to 1 phase, have it running around 61Hz, and 240volts. Use your meter and check the convenience outlet.
Close the circuit interrupter, should have a green light.
Use your meter to check lugs.
Look over the fuel return lines. They start weeping fuel. All that is in that thread too.