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MEP-803A no AC output

k9medic

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Started a new thread for a new issue as suggested.

Got my new to me generator running. Does not have the fuse modification or the MOV mod.

At first go around, I was on 240v three phase and was showing solid 240v with 60 hz. I rotated the switch to get 240v single phase and showed the same.

After realizing that I did not have power to the lugs, not realizing that I might have an AC relay issue, I moved the switch back to three phase to see if it would change. With no change, I swapped back to 240v single phase. Now the hertz gauge is reading really low and my volts appear to have some fluctuation.

Engine start has some bogging down then a return to a 240v range. Voltage read from back of the meter on the panel. The convenience plugs do have 120 volts.

I am running the test procedure and I am having difficulty identifying a1, a2, etc.. The AC light bulb is operable . Don't have a way to measure hertz
 

k9medic

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14
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Location
Florida
Well now I am even more confused.

I went terminal by terminal and loosened and re-engaged each screw. Cranked everything up and now get perfect voltage through the AC circuit.

Turned everything off and back on the. tried to repower with circuit switch and nothing...




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Last edited:

robertsears1

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Do not change between single and three phase unless the unit is shut down. During engine start, do not release the start switch until the oil pressure stabilizes and add about 5”, it will not hurt the unit.

Robert
 

k9medic

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Location
Florida
Do not change between single and three phase unless the unit is shut down. During engine start, do not release the start switch until the oil pressure stabilizes and add about 5”, it will not hurt the unit.

Robert
Right now I'm jump starting it from the starter lugs. The starter solenoid is bad.
 

k9medic

Member
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14
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Location
Florida
Well now it works...

It took forever for me to figure out what the simple issue was but robertsears comment got me to thinking.

Since I was jumping the starter lug I was not using the start switch so I decided to turn the switch to start after the engine was running.

Would you believe that the AC switch worked !

Lesson learned - AC switch has to be energized through the start switch.

I guess it’s a cheap lesson. I bought the unit for $375 and put $130 worth of batteries in it.

$500 for a running generator. So far so good!


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Daybreak

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Howdy,

NOTE: Any changes behind the control panel need to made only with the unit OFF.

Grounding is important no matter what. Say you energize your unit, and a wire has rubbed through and is touching the frame?... ouch..

It's a safety thing. Test running, field running, house running, gotta have it grounded.
 
Last edited:

Guyfang

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Well now it works...

It took forever for me to figure out what the simple issue was but robertsears comment got me to thinking.

Since I was jumping the starter lug I was not using the start switch so I decided to turn the switch to start after the engine was running.

Would you believe that the AC switch worked !

Lesson learned - AC switch has to be energized through the start switch.

I guess it’s a cheap lesson. I bought the unit for $375 and put $130 worth of batteries in it.

$500 for a running generator. So far so good!


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I hope the new starter solves the problem. But like I posted before, if you can not start the set with the S1, not turn it over with the S10, that points first to the K2 relay. If you haven't checked ans tested K2, and the wires that belong to those circuits, your new starter may not fixed the problem

Had you told us how you were jumping the starter, someone would have told you to place S1 in the run position, so the other circuits would funtion. When the set is turned off, naturally nothing should work.

I wish you you well in your future endeavors to get this set running.
 

k9medic

Member
96
14
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Location
Florida
I hope the new starter solves the problem. But like I posted before, if you can not start the set with the S1, not turn it over with the S10, that points first to the K2 relay. If you haven't checked ans tested K2, and the wires that belong to those circuits, your new starter may not fixed the problem
Had you told us how you were jumping the starter, someone would have told you to place S1 in the run position, so the other circuits would funtion. When the set is turned off, naturally nothing should work.
I wish you you well in your future endeavors to get this set running.
S1 was in run. I didn't realize that I evidently have to move it to start (momentary?) in order to be able to engage the AC field. I only bought a new starter relay, not a starter so we shall see.


I also bought a multimeter that displays hertz. Unfortunately at the scale it shows, I can only see the number 5. That could be 50 or 59, who knows. I'll have to get another meter.

The hertz meter on the generator can be tapped until it shows 60 hertz though. Everything else seems to be working though.
 

Guyfang

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S1 was in run. I didn't realize that I evidently have to move it to start (momentary?) in order to be able to engage the AC field. I only bought a new starter relay, (K2?) not a starter so we shall see.


I also bought a multimeter that displays hertz. Unfortunately at the scale it shows, I can only see the number 5. That could be 50 or 59, who knows. I'll have to get another meter.

The hertz meter on the generator can be tapped until it shows 60 hertz though. Everything else seems to be working though.
.
 

k9medic

Member
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Location
Florida
Okay, I replaced the starter solenoid (k18.) Previously I said this was the starter relay. I was incorrect. I now get a solid "click" and voltage across to both lugs. The TM is reading like VCR programming instructions.

Now what?
 

Guyfang

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Okay, I replaced the starter solenoid (k18.) Previously I said this was the starter relay. I was incorrect. I now get a solid "click" and voltage across to both lugs. Both lugs of what? The TM is reading like VCR programming instructions.

Now what?
K18 is the Pre-Heat relay. Take a closer look at what you changed, or send a picture.
 

Guyfang

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Thats K18, the preheat relay. You need to find K2 relay, and see if its getting voltage when you turn S1 into the start position. Or S10, in the crank position.
 

k9medic

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Location
Florida
OK. I found K2 but it looks like a small lightweight relay. Not a starter solenoid.


When I get a chance I will check that for voltage and report back. I greatly appreciate your help. Trying to read the schematics on PDF and flipping back-and-forth is difficult to say the least.

I flew a load of supplies over to the Abacos yesterday. What was supposed to be a day trip turned out to be an ordeal when I blew a tire on my plane.


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Guyfang

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K2 is not a solenoid. Its a relay. L4 is the starter solenoid. Completely different. To test K2, simply try and start the set. Measure for 24 VDC at X1 terminal. L4 and B1, (mounted to one another, are your starter)
 

k9medic

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Location
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Got 24v at k2.

K18 has both the wires for the preheat and a positive to the starter on it.

Getting 24v on both sides of the lugs.




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Guyfang

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K2 has 4 terminals. Two big, two small. The small ones are X1 and X2. The large ones are A1 and A2.

On X1 should be two wires, 114C and 114B. On X2 there should be one wire, 100J. The X2 wire goes to ground. The X1 wires go to S10, (Wire 114C) and P6-20, (for the start circuit from S1)

A1 should be hot all the time when the S1 is in the run or start position. A2 go to the starter and other places. There should only be voltage here when K2 is energized.

To test K2, go from Ground to X1. It should have no VDC. Turn S1 to start position.
X1 should have power. The relay should turn on. So test from A1 to ground, (24VDC) and A2 to ground. As long as you hold S1 in the start position, A2 should be hot. Is that so.

Dont worry about K18. It has nothing to do with starting. It turns on during the start process, but has nothing to do with the start process. We want to see if the K2 closes.
 

k9medic

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Location
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Okay got a chance to probe it today.

K2 does not get voltage at A2 when S1 is placed into start or run.




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