Mep 803a rebuild

[1quickduramax]

bought a generator from government auction and exhuast flap was missing and engine filled with water. Pulled the head and soaked the pistons. Still can’t get it freed up so thinking I’m gunna have to separate the engine from the generator. What’s the easiest way to do so? Do I need to undo all the wires and stuff or is it easy to unbolt it? Any help would be awesome thanks!

 

[jamawieb]

I leave the generator head in place and pull the motor. It's alot easier in my opinon. Need to unbolt the radiator support and take everything off in 1 piece. I just finished pulling the motor out of a 813a to put into an 803a. Took about 3 hours to pull it.

 

[1quickduramax]

I leave the generator head in place and pull the motor. It's alot easier in my opinon. Need to unbolt the radiator support and take everything off in 1 piece. I just finished pulling the motor out of a 813a to put into an 803a. Took about 3 hours to pull it.

So how does the engine un bolt from the generator? Is there flywheel bolts?

 

[Ray70]

Best to look in the TM, it will explain everything. In a nutshell you need to completely disassemble the generator to get it off.
The end cap and stator slide off by taking the nuts off the long threaded rods, once that is out of the way you can access the bolts holding the rotor to the flywheel. Be ready to have to support the rotor and whack it with a dead blow hammer to separate it from the flywheel, its often a very tight fit.

 

[jamawieb]

So how does the engine un bolt from the generator? Is there flywheel bolts?

Need to take the door that covers the lugs off and the center pillar that door attaches to. Then looking at the back of the head, you will see 4 nuts. Take those off and use a jaw puller to push the stator and stator bearing out while lifting on the engine. The engine will come out with the rotor attached.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
Slow down a minute.
What kind of soak? How long of a soak?
Many members here have found ways.
Give it some time. Some have left ATF in the cylinders for days.
ATF fluid?
Have you drained the oil? What was the oil like? was it oil? was it milkshake? was it water?

Take the simple approach first. If the ATF sits for days, and you get it freed up. You can then make a determination what to do when you look at the cylinder walls.

 

[CapePrep]

I had a similar problem with an engine on my 803. Pulled head, soaked with numerous remedies. Nothing worked. Started looking close at cylinders. Once I removed rust, gunk with scotchbrite, found a vertical crack in one cylinder. The metal was distorted due to it being frozen/cracked and was never going to free up. Might want to take a close look inside cylinders to see if it is even worth it.

 

[1quickduramax]

Howdy,
Slow down a minute.
What kind of soak? How long of a soak?
Many members here have found ways.
Give it some time. Some have left ATF in the cylinders for days.
ATF fluid?
Have you drained the oil? What was the oil like? was it oil? was it milkshake? was it water?

Take the simple approach first. If the ATF sits for days, and you get it freed up. You can then make a determination what to do when you look at the cylinder walls.

Tried soaking it for a few days with ATF, then soaked it a few days with diesel, then like a week with some arcroi ol

Howdy,
Slow down a minute.
What kind of soak? How long of a soak?
Many members here have found ways.
Give it some time. Some have left ATF in the cylinders for days.
ATF fluid?
Have you drained the oil? What was the oil like? was it oil? was it milkshake? was it water?

Take the simple approach first. If the ATF sits for days, and you get it freed up. You can then make a determination what to do when you look at the cylinder walls.

I tried soaking it with ATF for 4-5 days then soaked it with some aerokroil creeping oil, then tried some of that rust off stuff that some of the guys on here had good luck with. Cleaned the rust rite off the cylinder walls. Piston tops and walls look good. The oil in the engine was clean. The cylinders and exhuast manifold was full of water. Took about a week and some of the creeping oil started to soak thru the back two cylinders but front two must be a little worse! The crank and bottom end doesn’t look to have a bunch of rust but haven’t undid anything down there yet. I just wanted to pull the engine out and get it to the machine shop and see what they can do with it.

 

[1quickduramax]

I had a similar problem with an engine on my 803. Pulled head, soaked with numerous remedies. Nothing worked. Started looking close at cylinders. Once I removed rust, gunk with scotchbrite, found a vertical crack in one cylinder. The metal was distorted due to it being frozen/cracked and was never going to free up. Might want to take a close look inside cylinders to see if it is even worth it.

I’ve checked the walls pretty good and haven’t seen any cracks but I’ll definitely double check it. Might have over looked something pretty simple.

 

[Ray70]

After soaking, how are you attempting to break it free? Just a socket on the crank bolt or other?
I usually take a piece of wood and whack the pistons down with a hammer and chunk of wood while putting pressure in same direction with a breaker bar on the crank.
I have also needed to occasionally remove the rod caps to allow some pistons to move independently of others, thereby reducing the force needed to break free 1 at a time.
Once you get it to move look closely at the point just above where the rings were, that is where the cyl. walls will be pitted the worst.

 

[aleigh]

Impact gun can help here if you have clearance to get the tool on the crank. As a generality, something about the hammering always seems to work better than just pulling. pneumatic, whatever. I like the big milwaukee electric impact for these kinds of things.

 

[GopherHill]

I second the conservative approach. Soak longer and be patient. You may want heat the piston tops briefly. It may draw penetrating oil in as they cool.

 

[1quickduramax]

After soaking, how are you attempting to break it free? Just a socket on the crank bolt or other?
I usually take a piece of wood and whack the pistons down with a hammer and chunk of wood while putting pressure in same direction with a breaker bar on the crank.
I have also needed to occasionally remove the rod caps to allow some pistons to move independently of others, thereby reducing the force needed to break free 1 at a time.
Once you get it to move look closely at the point just above where the rings were, that is where the cyl. walls will be pitted the worst.

Hey yeah been using a breaker bar and socket and yes using hammer and piece of wood. Soaked it for weeks lol might try the rod caps.

 

[1quickduramax]

I second the conservative approach. Soak longer and be patient. You may want heat the piston tops briefly. It may draw penetrating oil in as they cool.

I’ll try a little bit of heat!

 

[smokem joe]

evaporust! I had one that I had to soak for a month in this, but it ate every drop of rust off the cylinders.

 

[1quickduramax]

evaporust! I had one that I had to soak for a month in this, but it ate every drop of rust off the cylinders.

That stuff works wonders!

 

[Guyfang]

What ever you do, don't go overboard. Be gentle. If you use excessive force, its not good.

 

[GopherHill]

What is the latest in your project?

 

[1quickduramax]

What is the latest in your project?

Pulled the motor and generator today. Got half the generator apart but having trouble separating the black plate from the flywheel.

 

[1quickduramax]

Got the engine and generator out of the unit today. Trying to seperate the two.