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MEP-803a runs great, makes power, circuit interrupter and battle short inoperable

TacMac2012

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Wallburg, NC
I have an 803a that runs great, but flipping the circuit interrupter switch or battle short switches does nothing, therefore power does not transfer down to the lugs on the front of the unit. The unit reads 25-50% load just running with no load at all, not sure what the deal with that is. I guess this is part of the reason the government auctioned this one off.

Anyone ever have similar issues? The switches seem to be working fine.

Thanks for any pointers.
 

R Racing

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Most of us don't run them in battle short so we may not realize the problem. When your in battle short it ignores all the safetys built in the unit that keep it from hurting itself.
 

R Racing

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What does your frequency read ? And you say it runs great but how if it doesn't with the battle short on or off? Can you give us more information?
 

mingram

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boynton beach, florida
All,
I have the same issue. I have the generator running well all new fluids and filters now. It is showing voltage and hertz. I am not connected to the house yet and i am getting power to the convenience receptacle. But neither the circuit interrupter nor the battle short test lights are powering on. Do I need to have a electrical connection to the lugs for these to work? The voltage is reading 240 volts with a minor fluctuation and the hertzs are about 60 with minor fluctuations. I show 0% on the load which i would expect as i have nothing connected yet. The Electrician is coming Thursday for the hook up to the house as a backup generator so would like to make sure all is ready. I have the manuals and will start testing the relay this week if necessary but wanted to make sure i am not missing something dumb.
thanks
m
 

Guyfang

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Mingram,

You would have better luck if you start your own thread. That way people do not get confused between you and NewEra. Do the lights press to test? Crack he books and use the troubleshooting guide. I wish you luck. Would love to get into this problem, but will be dropping out of the net for 3-4 weeks. Take care and don't give up! There are some real smart cats in SS. Work with them.
 

mingram

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boynton beach, florida
As they are identical symptomsI thought I would piggy back on the issue. No neither of the press to test light up.

I will test the switch based on the techincal manual and update. but as both are not working i am concerned it is not the switch.
 
Last edited:

TacMac2012

Active member
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Location
Wallburg, NC
I stated that flipping the circuit interrupter and battle short does nothing, as in, with the engine running, you flip the switches and nothing happens.

I've run through the steps in the manual I have and it was worthless, must be the 'beginner' series manual (pretty much just says take it to maintenance shop).

Frequency is around 60, maybe a few below 60, but I haven't adjusted it, I didn't figure that would be an issue.

Should the voltage at the circuit interrupter switch be 120v AC, or should it read DC volts? I figured AC volts and I think one of the terminals was reading about 58 volts, but that was a very brief test and it could have been a bad ground connection on my meter.
 

dependable

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Hi M. Are you just trying to test voltage regulator? Looks like your getting way into this. Is something not working, or are you just pre testing before it is hooked to house? When I tested my 802, I just put load on the lugs in 120/240 mode and ran it for a while.
 

mingram

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boynton beach, florida
yes that is the next step i believe. The ac interrupt push to test is failing to light up as is the battle short push to test. The system does come up and is running well small fluctuations at the voltage and hertz less than 2 hertz and 5 volts but i have not tested loading up the lugs yet, do that tomorrow. I wanted to make sure they are getting power and was concerned that the ac interrupt circuit is not working. The two 10 amp 110v courtesy outlets are powered up.
i thought i would test the voltage regulator next before doing the generator testing Thursday. I would like the push to test systems to work but if i have load of the lugs tomorrow it will be less of an issue.
martin
 

mingram

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Location
boynton beach, florida
Okay followed the test in 2-27.2 and voltage regulator worked as expected. Also checked voltage at the lugs and they were good. Tomorrow we load it up to check current and see if the old boy can run the house.
m
 

TacMac2012

Active member
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Location
Wallburg, NC
So are you saying that it does send power down to the lugs, but that just the circuit interrupter switch doesn't light up? Seems it will be hard to put a load on it if you are not getting power to the lugs?
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
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Howdy,
It sounds like you need to replace the Push-to-test lights.
 

mingram

Member
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Location
boynton beach, florida
Replaced them already. But the good news is the generator is on and working fine. I have the entire house connected and running on it. Ran for 30 minutes no issues at about 60% load with one 3 ton one 2 ton and a mini split plus fridge and water heater with no issues.
Very happy.
m
 

dependable

Well-known member
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Location
Tisbury, Massachusetts
Glad to hear it Martin, as I sent you in this direction in the first place. Jon

Did you use a transfer switch or interlock set up? I know you said you had an electrician hook it up.
 

TacMac2012

Active member
182
134
43
Location
Wallburg, NC
So your AC circuit interrupter switch DOES work? The light just doesn't work for it? (the little light directly above the switch). I don't think I will be that lucky with mine. My test lights do work.
 

mingram

Member
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0
6
Location
boynton beach, florida
Glad to hear it Martin, as I sent you in this direction in the first place. Jon

Did you use a transfer switch or interlock set up? I know you said you had an electrician hook it up.
i used a manual transfer switch. still no lights, but oh well no idea why they do not work, but the rest of it does so just going to ignore them for now. I also replaced the oil, temp and fuel gauges with gauges with the following: http://www.boatersland.com/faria-euro.html. You need a 100 ohm 1 watt resistor for the I connector on all of them to convert the 24v to 12v and the temp needs a 20 ohm 1 watt on the S. tested and all working for less than $75. My old ones had all been cracked.I also replaced the volt potentiometer as the old one worked but was not smooth in its adjustment. Thanks for all the help from every one.
 
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