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MEP-803A Spare Parts

Light in the Dark

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gotcha. thanks a lot! Ive been reading the TM's and I'm going crosseyed.
At least you are putting the time in reading them though. You will find there will be an 'ah ha!' moment, and suddenly the TMs will suddenly not be so overwhelming and mysterious.
 

NormB

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Last time I did a big filter buy, I went through Fleet Filter (www.fleetfilter.com). I see prices are up (shocker) but they do run sales on occasion
https://www.fleetfilter.com/filter/51374.html
https://www.fleetfilter.com/filter/33348.html
I will check out Rock Auto the next go round.

I second that.

I bought a case of 12 Wix filters for my HMMWV last year (18 mos maybe?) for less than $60 on sale, seem to recall paying about $6 each delivered.

I already had a half dozen Purolator (didn’t they invent oil filters?) per LO requirements (whatever matched the NSN) on hand but the price was right.

NB
 

smokem joe

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Light in the Dark

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I'd like to find a filter with a hex end, so I can stop using these stupid fuel filter slip wrenches. I HATE them.
 

Light in the Dark

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I had to use the biggest pair of adjustable vice grips I had to wrestle one off yesterday, threw the slip filter wrench in the trash I was so fed up with it. I'll give the pliers a go. Thanks
 

kloppk

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The webbing is attached to the 1/2" square tube. You slip the webbing loop around the filter body and then turn the square tube with your 1/2" ratchet. As the tube turns it tightens up the webbing loop around the filter body. Once the webbing loop is tight just keep turning the square tube and it will start turning the filter.
 

jamawieb

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By the photo... how exactly does that work?
Kloppk gave an excellent description. Really easy and works perfectly to get the water/separator out of these machines. I've only 3 units where I destroyed the filter with the strap and had to take the side cover off and use a big pipe wrench to get it off.
 

SalmonSlayer

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Alaska
Got the unit up and running again today after the deoxit finally arrived and could do some cleaning on S6 and S8. gauges seem to be working normally again however a little concerned about the reliability of the ammeter. see the pictures but it seems to me if these units are rated for i believe 54? amps or so then i should be way over the 50% mark at 44amps.

IMG_0448.jpgIMG_0445.jpgIMG_0447.jpg sorry for the glare guess i should take the plastic off the screen lol
 

Zed254

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52 amps with no derating is what the data tag says - single phase/240 volts. 41.6 amps should read 100% on your percent rated current meter with a resistive load.....like an electric stove. Refrigerators and other motor / compressor equipment will pull more amps during start up cycles so you want to calibrate meters with a resistive load. KennyO has a nice meter calibration guide: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?171920-MEP-Meter-Calibration
 

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SalmonSlayer

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right sorry 52 amps... inrush current measured i think 85 at startup but immediately dropped down into normal operating range. the 44 amps was from the walk in freezer and 2 ~1500 watt space heaters running. plus lights which draw basically nothing as they are LED. is there a way to adjust the gauge or is it toast and i need a new one
 

Guyfang

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There is a small plastic screw in the middle of the meter. Put a restive load on the set. Mesure the output, just like you did before, then adjust the plastic screw to make the meter agree. Please keep in mind, that this is not a Satern 5 rocket. The milatary is not interested in real fine mesurment on these sets. Everything is to be taken with a grain of salt, if not two grains. I personally would not worry much about it at all.
 

SalmonSlayer

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what i don't understand at all is if i have a freezer unit with a max draw of 35amps how in the world did i get an inrush reading of almost 85amps at startup
 

Zed254

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Need to search the net on that one. Essentially a motor at rest needs lots of energy to begin rotation. Once up to speed it will draw your 35 amps. But to get to normal speed from a standing start with electo-magnetic energy it takes more amps than normally rated. Check to see if the compressor tag has a 'starting amps' label along with the rated amps.
 

SalmonSlayer

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Location
Alaska
Need to search the net on that one. Essentially a motor at rest needs lots of energy to begin rotation. Once up to speed it will draw your 35 amps. But to get to normal speed from a standing start with electo-magnetic energy it takes more amps than normally rated. Check to see if the compressor tag has a 'starting amps' label along with the rated amps.

HA HA ive been reading for a few hours now and I've come the grand realization that the more i learn the more confused i get.
 
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