MEP 803A will not turn on?

[Guyfang]

Like I said above in post #15, when that happens, pull the K1 and open it up.

 

[Hard Head]

I hope she never tosses you out, but it would be fun working with you.

 

[Guyfang]

After 40 years, one month and 14 days, there is a small chance she will keep me.

If you don't have a loud stereo system, that plays non stop Blues, Rock and anything else in that realm, I can be an ornery old man. But we can work it out!

 

[Light in the Dark]

So to delve further... if this chap didn't have the field flashed properly, why were his hz and voltage gauges registering?

Any thoughts, group? Is this possible, or not?

 

[Guyfang]

No, not possible. I went back and read this whole thread 6 times. Do that. Then think about what we said, and what we were, and weren't told.

I suggested that we had two problems here. When he said that it now worked, we all forgot it. Remember when I said that the outlets had nothing to do with the K1? The out lets are controlled by the CB3? That's still as good a statement now, as before. The load terminals are controlled by K1. Two different systems. If the meters read, then the main AC was putting out power. If the main gen was putting out power, then we HAD to have power at least up to the input side of CB3. So IF the outlets were dead, ONLY the CB 3 could be the cause. since we know the meters read, then the reason the out terminals had no power had to be because the K1 would not close. Not because there was no power. When I posted the CB3 controls the outlets, did ECS reset the CB3? We didn't ask him. And he never told us. But I suspect that he did reset the CB3,. That fixed the 120 volt outlet problem. And what I think happened was that the K1 simply hung up. ECS got K1 to work, by energizing K1 often enough that it finally broke loose. This pure speculation until ECS tells us something more.

 

[Light in the Dark]

I didn't think it was possible to get a reading at the gauges, without output, but many of you are at a higher pay grade than I... so thank you.

 

[Guyfang]

You are getting pretty good at this stuff too. Who noticed that something didn't sound right?

 

[Hard Head]

There are 3 sides to any story. The one they said, the one said back and the one that was never said. So we learn to read between the lines for the one that was never said. That is why a video is great, you can watch what took place without all that guess work going on in the brain!

 

[Light in the Dark]

There are 3 sides to any story. The one they said, the one said back and the one that was never said. So we learn to read between the lines for the one that was never said. That is why a video is great, you can watch what took place without all that guess work going on in the brain!

Very true. I wanted to get some meat & potatoes answers for the betterment of the collective knowledge being documented in each thread (for future 'search tool' users).

 

[jwb1986]

Ok. So I have almost the same problem. When I try to activate my AC interrupt switch, the green light comes on but only if you remain holding the switch closed.

 

[jwb1986]

I have read thru the manual and tested K1. I even swapped it out with another unit and get same result. K1 looks like new and when 24v positive is applied to the x terminal, nothing happens. K1 will close the contacts when you apply a negative ground to the Y terminal. And then I get power to the output lugs.

 

[Guyfang]

Then the ground is missing. You need to look at the wire connector, and then look at the wire schematics, to see where the ground wire goes. I woul look, but am not at home and a phone is useless to use to look.

 

[jwb1986]

Does it have anything to do with the hold circuit?? As long as I hold the switch closed, I get the green light and allows gen set to function like normal. The convenience plugs are working fine. Thanks

 

[kloppk]

The convenience outlet are not wired into K1. They are fed separately.

Here is a description of the latching circuit I did a while back...

It's a latching circuit created by K1, S5, CR3 & K8.

After the engine starts and oil pressure is up K20 closes and K1 terminal X has 24 volts supplied to it. When you toggle S5 to CLOSE S5 terminals 5 & 6 connect momentarily connecting K1 terminal Y to ground causing K1 to close and closing K1 contacts 11 & 12. When you release S5 a path from K1 terminal Y to ground is created via S5 terminal 5, CR 3, S5 terminal 2, S5 Terminal 3, K8 OL, K8 SC, to K1 terminal 11, to K1 terminal 12 to ground. This path keeps K1 activated after releasing S5 from the CLOSE position.
When you toggle S5 to OPEN you break the connection between S5 terminal 2 and S5 terminal 3 breaking the ground path causing K1 to open.

K8 OL and K8 SC are in the path so that if the fault logic detects an overload or a short circuit condition is will cause K1 to open removing power from the lugs.

 

[jwb1986]

Thank you all very much for the information. I am going to try and find a wiring schematic and then head back to the shop. I'll keep ya posted!

 

[Guyfang]

You do not need to TRY and find a schematic. Its in the SS TM forum.

 

[jamawieb]

Thank you all very much for the information. I am going to try and find a wiring schematic and then head back to the shop. I'll keep ya posted!

PLease look in the Technical Manual section above. People (Guy especially) have worked very hard on making the schematic. It's color coded and very easy to read

 

[Guyfang]

PLease look in the Technical Manual section above. People (Guy especially) have worked very hard on making the schematic. It's color coded and very easy to read

Diesel Addict made it. I just cracked a whip every now and then when he stopped sweating!

 

[jwb1986]

Ok yes I did find the color coded one and printed it out. I haven't worked on it anymore just yet, because I focused my effort on getting my second 802 going before the snow. The second one works

 

[jwb1986]

***second one works fine even after using the K1 and AC interrupt switch from the first unit.