MEP-803A won't start

[steelydan]

Hey folks,

I've been lax for a while and didn't start it for at least a couple months. Before that, it's been running reliably.
I tried to start it yesterday. The batteries were dead, so I charged them both. IIRC, it sounds a bit different than it used to.
I checked the oil and the dip stick was reading full.
None of the lights on the fault indicator panel are on.
Temp outside was about 45 degrees F.
I took a video, hoping that someone would be able to diagnose the sounds.
Note the slight clicking sound when I switch it to prime/run.
Any input would be appreciated.

Here's the video: https://streamable.com/hztcr4

 

[Chainbreaker]

How long did you charge batteries for and what were the individual battery voltage readings once you charged them? Also, are all battery connections verified tight?

 

[steelydan]

How long did you charge batteries for and what were the individual battery voltage readings once you charged them? Also, are all battery connections verified tight?

Hi.
I charged them both overnight with my Battery Tender and took them off charge when the charger light turned green. Same procedure I've used in the past. I didn't verify the actual voltage though.
Yes, I tightened the connectors till they wouldn't take much more.

 

[jamawieb]

Your batteries have one or more dead cells. Change them out and it will start.

 

[Ray70]

Agreed... that noise sounds like insufficient voltage to keep the preheat solenoid closed and also insufficient to close the start relay.
If you have a volt meter, check the battery voltages, but I bet at least 1 of them is bad.

 

[Guyfang]

Check the battery's, separately. Then test at the slave recpt. Then while someone else tries to start it. See if the DC voltage breaks down on start.

 

[DieselAddict]

Batts be toast. You may be able to recover them some with the right charger but it’s better to replace them.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Do yourself a favor in the future... punch a 2" hole somewhere in the case of the machine and install one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ANV81S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It will allow you to place a battery tender in the machine so this doesn't happen again.

 

[Ray70]

Sweet plug outlet mount!

 

[steelydan]

Busted out the Fluke and each of the batteries read ~12.6 VDC.
Slave reads ~25 VDC.
Left battery voltage didn't budge when I tried to start it.
Right battery started at ~12.3 VDC, then dropped to a negative value when I tried to start it.
I think I found the culpret. Tomorrow I'll try to recharge that one for shits n giggles.

Thanks everyone!

 

[Light in the Dark]

If its nosediving like that, you aren't saving it.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Sweet plug outlet mount!

Yeah its a real nice unit, and provides a nice option for the end user.

 

[steelydan]

If its nosediving like that, you aren't saving it.

I agree, but no harm in trying just to see.

 

[steelydan]

Optima D51R battery: $250. Holy crap!

 

[nextalcupfan]

I use an Optima 34 or 34/78.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Yup. The least expensive AGM I have found that works well in this is the Champion AGM Group 51R

Champion AGM Battery, Group Size 51R | 2071617 | Pep Boys

www.pepboys.com

Lead acid batteries work fine for this too, never hurts to keep whatever technology you go with on a battery tender.

Edit: If you have a good Red Top already, you really shouldn't mix batteries... you might need to pony up.

 

[steelydan]

Yup. The least expensive AGM I have found that works well in this is the Champion AGM Group 51R

Champion AGM Battery, Group Size 51R | 2071617 | Pep Boys

www.pepboys.com

Lead acid batteries work fine for this too, never hurts to keep whatever technology you go with on a battery tender.

Edit: If you have a good Red Top already, you really shouldn't mix batteries... you might need to pony up.

It came with two yellow Optima D51Rs when I bought it. I'd hate to buy a new one for $250 to maybe see the other one go bad soon.
I'd prolly rather buy two new ones you posted.

With your receptacle, how would you hook up the Battery Tender inside? You'd still have to keep swapping the leads between batteries, unless you've designed away to charge both at once, no? But at least with your receptacle, I could keep it neat and the covers closed.

 

[nextalcupfan]

This is what I did, bought the 24V battery tender and wired the positive to the starter terminal, negative to a bolt on the intake.
Also I didn't leave it on the floor, I mounted it to the divider in the front middle of the unit. (In between the access doors)

 

[steelydan]

This is what I did, bought the 24V battery tender and wired the positive to the starter terminal, negative to a bolt on the intake.
Also I didn't leave it on the floor, I mounted it to the divider in the front middle of the unit. (In between the access doors)

I've got the 12V Battery Tender. Might be time for an upgrade.

 

[Light in the Dark]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CBTRMZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Permanently hooks to both batteries. Just unplug the side receptacle before use (it can stay installed) so it doesnt charge while the alternator is charging under use.