Mep-805a- 30kw generator

[Scoobyshep]

Thank You I will try it Monday I'm in Florida looking at the weather. I'm in Clearwater Fl and if anyone knows someone near me that works on these generators I would be happy to pay someone to help.

Clearwater eh? Longwood here. If you need some setup help let me know.

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[Guyfang]

Nah. Just finished a bowl of chocolate ice cream, covered in Jagermeister.

 

[Scoobyshep]

Nah. Just finished a bowl of chocolate ice cream, covered in Jagermeister.

Now that sounds interesting, I must try this.

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[Guyfang]

You will never eat it again without.

 

[walkerman]

Yes I'm interested in help

 

[walkerman]

Clearwater eh? Longwood here. If you need some setup help let me know.

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Yes you can call me at 727-488-1850 John

 

[steiner]

Walkerman..... I am interested in what you did to resolve your problem? I have one of these same generators and the last time I used it everything was fine. Now I am having the same problem that you are. You mentioned previously that you got it running and the main problem was dirty contacts. Which contacts were you referring to?

Thanks......

 

[walkerman]

Walkerman..... I am interested in what you did to resolve your problem? I have one of these same generators and the last time I used it everything was fine. Now I am having the same problem that you are. You mentioned previously that you got it running and the main problem was dirty contacts. Which contacts were you referring to?

Thanks......

I apologize as I missed this reply years ago. I cleaned all the contacts with contact cleaner, the ones behind the control panel. Everything had a light layer of dust on it. Got it running and adjusted the mag pickup and dialed in the overspeed.

Fast forward 3 years and now the under voltage light comes on again and shuts down the generator. It was running about 6 months ago and tried to start it last week. No go again with the under voltage fault.

Cleaned contacts again but no luck this time. TM reads like this:

UNDER VOLTAGE indicator: Lights when voltage in 120 volt generator coil winding drops below 99 ± 4 VAC.

Can someone point me in the direction as to how to test this and where to start please?

Thanks

 

[jmenende]

I apologize as I missed this reply years ago. I cleaned all the contacts with contact cleaner, the ones behind the control panel. Everything had a light layer of dust on it. Got it running and adjusted the mag pickup and dialed in the overspeed.

Fast forward 3 years and now the under voltage light comes on again and shuts down the generator. It was running about 6 months ago and tried to start it last week. No go again with the under voltage fault.

Cleaned contacts again but no luck this time. TM reads like this:

UNDER VOLTAGE indicator: Lights when voltage in 120 volt generator coil winding drops below 99 ± 4 VAC.

Can someone point me in the direction as to how to test this and where to start please?

Thanks

Sometimes cleaning the terminals connected to the transformer located above the connection box helps with these issues and avoids false readings. I do it to all units I refurb and its all but eliminated under/over volt errors.

 

[walkerman]

Sometimes cleaning the terminals connected to the transformer located above the connection box helps with these issues and avoids false readings. I do it to all units I refurb and its all but eliminated under/over volt errors.

Thanks for the reply, we'll pick up some contact cleaner and a small brass brush today and I'll remove and clean each wire/contact later this afternoon or tomorrow.

 

[jmenende]

Thanks for the reply, we'll pick up some contact cleaner and a small brass brush today and I'll remove and clean each wire/contact later this afternoon or tomorrow.

Specifically F1 and F2. Mine had a snapped terminal that looked good till you wiggled it.

 

[walkerman]

Specifically F1 and F2. Mine had a snapped terminal that looked good till you wiggled it.

I assume you are talking about this transformer in the back corner, yes?

 

[jmenende]

I assume you are talking about this transformer in the back corner, yes?

Yes, clean contacts on all three. Should clear your issue. If not look at the relay in the conyrol panel.

 

[walkerman]

Well, it wasn't the electrical connections although they are now all cleaned. Turns out that the engine wasn't getting up to the required RPM to even make power. I have a fuel pressure issue that causing the engine to die after about 30 seconds. More info below.

 

[Guyfang]

Walker,

What you need to do is stay in your own thread. First off its against forum rules to post your problems in more then one thread, and second off, you have no idea if your problem has anything to do with a problem someone else is having. AND you bring confusion to someone trying to solve a problem of their own. Last but not least, you get more attention to your problem.

 

[walkerman]

Walker,

What you need to do is stay in your own thread. First off its against forum rules to post your problems in more then one thread, and second off, you have no idea if your problem has anything to do with a problem someone else is having. AND you bring confusion to someone trying to solve a problem of their own. Last but not least, you get more attention to your problem.

Ok, I was trying to group similar issues together instead of having similar info scattered all over the forum, my bad. This is a different format than I'm used to. My issue is exactly what the other user describes, exactly the same that's why I posted there.

Here's the issue, the MEP-805A starts and runs great then dies after about 30 seconds or so. If I relieve the fuel pressure inside the Stanadyne pump (I loosen the two screws holding the small cover plate on the lower bottom side of the fuel pump) it'll start and run again for 30 seconds or so. There is a glass check valve in the return line at the pump. If I remove the return line at the pump it'll bubble fuel out the return fitting with the glass ball when I start it. This tells me that the glass check valve is working but I dont know how well. How much pressure or flow should there be out of the check valve? Can I remove the glass ball? I took the fitting apart and cleaned it with some brake cleaner and reassembled it. No change. Is there a fix? Do I just remove the check valve? Seems that it's building up the pressure that Jamawied mentioned in another similar topic.

Any guidance or help would be great, thank you.

 

[Guyfang]

I assume, always a bad thing to do, but assume you have used the hand pump to pump fuel up to the IP? And assume you have cracked the injector line farthest from the IP, and turned over the engine to force out any and all air in the fuel lines? Crack the return fuel line, after the check valve. Then if you have a good flow of fuel, tighten it up. The valve is good.

 

[walkerman]

I assume, always a bad thing to do, but assume you have used the hand pump to pump fuel up to the IP? And assume you have cracked the injector line farthest from the IP, and turned over the engine to force out any and all air in the fuel lines? Crack the return fuel line, after the check valve. Then if you have a good flow of fuel, tighten it up. The valve is good.

You assume correctly, there's fuel at the inlet after hand pumping the mechanical lever. We've cracked the line at the farthest injector, in fact we had to replace the farthest injector because the "T" at the top was cracked. If we crack or remove the return line fitting fuel does flow out when it's running so then I assumed, like you, that the check valve was working as designed. The engine starts right up every time now and purrs like a kitten for about 30 seconds or so then slowly dies. If I relieve the pressure inside the pump it will start right up again and purr for 30 seconds or so.

The other topic I mistakenly posted in had the same issue but I didn't see any response from the poster if he found a solution.

I'll keep plugging away at it and let you know what I find. Thanks for the reply.

 

[Guyfang]

Look at the fuel tank cap. See if it has a little valve in it. it will be in the inside of the cap. If its closed, the fuel tank will not "Breath". It in affect, creates a vacuum in the tank.

 

[walkerman]

Look at the fuel tank cap. See if it has a little valve in it. it will be in the inside of the cap. If its closed, the fuel tank will not "Breath". It in affect, creates a vacuum in the tank.

Thanks for the reply and it would be great if it were that simple but unfortunately that's not the issue. We were even running it with the cap off the fuel filler. We blew air through all the return lines and even removed the fitting where they go back in the tank to check for blockage but found nothing. I need to check the return lines at the injectors but those are a little harder to get to.