MEP 805A Fuel Help Please!

[mgreene]

I have been reading the books but when one person post things to check from the TM and then the next assumes I should know every word front to back in the operation manual,, guess I’m just not quick enough? As I posted I followed the directions exactly in settings the 2 1/2 volts that I am getting from the MPU. According to what I was able to find,,I held S1 until I had 25 psi on the oil pressure,,,,it was almost immediately after starting and not the 4-5 seconds you state above. I will try today to continue holding S1 after the unit starts and see if it makes any difference. I will search for more information on the Quad MWO and post what I find as far as that fuse? Thank you very much for the help. I have really been trying to read and find the correct direction before posting anything here!

 

[robertsears1]

When I first started to work (play?) with military generators, it felt extremely wrong to hold the switch in start for so long. This went against everything I had learned about starting engines my whole life. My MEP 003a requires one to hold the switch in start for at least 25”, I guess the oil pressure sensor is a little slow. On my 804 generators, I hold it in start until the oil pressure stabilizes.

Robert

 

[kloppk]

.... I will search for more information on the Quad MWO and post what I find as far as that fuse?...

See section 5.3 in --> https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...d-MAINTENANCE-2k-THRU-200k-TQG-GENERATOR-SETS

Some info about it..

 

[Guyfang]

I have been reading the books but when one person post things to check from the TM and then the next assumes I should know every word front to back in the operation manual,, guess I’m just not quick enough? As I posted I followed the directions exactly in settings the 2 1/2 volts that I am getting from the MPU. According to what I was able to find,,I held S1 until I had 25 psi on the oil pressure,,,,it was almost immediately after starting and not the 4-5 seconds you state above. I will try today to continue holding S1 after the unit starts and see if it makes any difference. I will search for more information on the Quad MWO and post what I find as far as that fuse? Thank you very much for the help. I have really been trying to read and find the correct direction before posting anything here!

Dude,

I am a nag. Don't be offended. I nag everyone. I tell folks, that if you want to buy one of these things, FIRST, read all the operator manuals. Every word. THEN read most of the -24 manuals. Don't have to read every word, but skim through. That way you discover little things like there are three levels of troubleshooting. Some folks don't realize that. They go to troubleshooting and when they work through it, and it says go to higher maintenance, they think that all she wrote. Then LOOK through the -24P, because it will give you a beginners look at what is where.

Or, you would have known about the Quad MWO. Or that you need to hold the start switch up longer. You didn't, and that's just how it is. So now you have to play catch up, and also ask questions. And that's good. The only stupid question, is the one not asked.


Crank engine with DEAD CRANK switch (WP 0110, Figure 1, Item 11) and observe multimeter. Multimeter
indication should be between 2.0 and 3.0 VAC.

This is what you want to see when you measure AC volts at the MPU. And you are in the box. BUT here is a tip, closer to 3, is better. 3 is what I always shot for.

So drink a beer and don't worry about my nagging. You are getting there.

 

[mgreene]

It’s fine Guyfang,,,,I can deal with some nagging ( I have lived with my wife for over 20 years�&#56833. I haven’t spent as much time in the manuals or on the forum as I should have due to working 50 plus hours a week and then trying to figure this thing out in my down time for our volunteer fire department! I appreciate everything I have been helped with so far!! Robert, I am definitely going to try holding the switch longer this afternoon but due to the picture kloppk posted,,,I know part of my problem! I went to the neighboring department that has the exact same generator (that quit generating) last night and actually got the fuse out of theirs because ours was completely missing the fuse for that system! So Guyfang, I do have the updated fuse block,,,just not operational right now!! Thanks again to everyone and I’ll post what I find!

 

[Guyfang]

Only 20 years?

 

[mgreene]

I went today and installed the missing fuse! Upon startup the voltage gauge immediately went up Obote 100 volts! I hooked the meter to 2 of the line output terminals and my first few try’s at closing the contractor didn’t work. I would get voltage output as I held the toggle switch in the closed position but would lose it as soon as I let off. The circuit closed light worked in relation to the switch and output. I started and stopped it several times due to getting an overspeed warning light ( the top end of the injection pump is still soaking in marvel mystery oil so I’m operating speed manually) and after resetting everything the 3rd time or so, the contactor held in, green light came on, and everything looked good!! I am able to adjust voltage from around 170v-218v or so! Hopefully now I can get things to free up and start working smoothly on the IP and get the governor re installed and working with having the IP rebuilt!! Thanks again everyone!

 

[mgreene]

Just a little update! After soaking my injection pump in a bath of marvel mystery oil it still doesn’t seem to move quiet as free as I think it should. A neighboring FD just happened to have a 805-A identical to ours. They messed up the generating side about a year ago so insurance bought them a replacement Generator. They give it to me and I had it delivered yesterday. It runs perfectly and the governor system seems to be properly working! My plan is to just remove the injection pump and install it on our unit so I can get it wired up and in service. Then maybe I’ll play with the old pump and maybe even start checking the generator on this unit? They said they had been looking on an online forum (maybe here) to check it and even had someone that knew about these to come and check it out?
If nothing else, I have lots of extra parts now and another great running JD engine!

 

[Guyfang]

Have you ever replaced an IP before? If not, do read up on it in the -24 TM. Take your time and don't cut corners. Timing the engine right the first time will save you many hours of frustration.

 

[mgreene]

I have changed many on tractors but not these. I saw to line up the hole in the bell housing with the plug on the same side as the IP and then check the marks inside the small foot on the IP? If I do the same with both engines I hope it will be pretty close? Only question is what still of puller do I need to get the gear loose? I saw one post the guy said to get the nut loose and pop with a hammer and another that said a standard steering wheel puller would work? Thanks again!

 

[Guyfang]

Basically, your right. Line everything up right. But do read the TM. It is clear and concise. One of the things you will learn about is the special tool needed to pull the IP.

If you look in the TM upload section, you will find the plans to make one. Its a no brainer. And if you cant make one, someone you know can. Below is the link. I suppose a steering wheel puller might work. I made the tool, and carried it with me for 8 years. Never needed to look for a wheel puller then.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?189264-MEP-806B-and-MEP-805B-Injector-Pump-Special-Tool

 

[NEIOWA]

Hello all. I am new to this group and looking for some help on a 1999 gen set that we received from the Forestry Service for my local volunteer fire department. It has been sitting for several years. All fluids were empty so we started by filling with oil, water and adding good batteries. I added fuel and started pumping the helper pump as well as spinning the engine and couldn’t get anything to pump. Ended up going to local JD dealer and getting a new pump and filter. That fixes getting fuel to filter. Then replaced the line from pump to filter due to a hard clog and a small hole in one of the bends. I now have fuel to the end of the Stanadyne injection pump but can’t get it any further! The solenoid that activates the shut off doesn’t seem to work but I have moved it in both directions and still get nothing to come to the bolt on the side of the pump (I thought it would be a bleeder port) or to either of the fuel lines that go to the injectors. I did remove the end off the pump this afternoon and checked the small screen strainer inside. Small amount of dirt but nothing terrible? I have tried spinning it from the manual switch located near the injection pump as well as the main switch on the control panel. I’m not sure about the 2 electrical wires that attach to the top of the pump or what I should be seeing there (if anything)? I’m not sure if my next move is to hunt a new pump or if there’s something we don’t have in the proper position to let fuel come through the pump? This will be a great addition to our department if I can figure out what’s happening with it so we can check the charging system?? Thank you for any help anyone can offer us!!

Unless you're enjoying fiddling with a extraordianarily nice/low hour genset, just get another genset. DOD surplus always has many listed/available. The 800 series that have not been OCONUS frequently have very low hours (every genset sold at auction site could have been your's) In you part of the country there are many mil locations to draw on. A MEP803 is large enough to power a typical Fire Stations.

You know you can also obtain parts from surplus? LOOK for listings from RCP and they will even pay the shipping. Or you can order thru GSA at the DOD price.