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MEP 805A Libby Voltage Reg. Retrofit

Guyfang

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Also, can you take a picture of A5. One that shows the part number is possible? or have you donr that someplace back in the first few pages? There are 3 different A5's.
 

Guyfang

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Moondog wrote:

Yes you sent that earlier I was using it as a guide to check the #1,3 and 19 that’s when I discovered if I touched #1 with my meter tester the unit speed up rpm and went to 60hz if the S19 was in the 60hz position kinda thru me for a loop!

And this has been nagging at me since. Is this what you are thinking?
 

Capt.Moondog

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Well!!…!!!.. Gentlemen 🤠 although you probably have bad news for me on what probably needs replacing! I can’t help but say it feels good that the machine fired off and ran up to rpm and produced 60hz like she is new!! I hooked a heater up to outlets everything seems to be operating normally no surging
Maybe oh!! Maybe I found with yalls help the nasty gremlin!
 

Capt.Moondog

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Is it wise just to leave the jumper wire in and run it that away?
I’m guessing A5 has something wrong with a connection inside. I looked online and there not readily available and seems expensive of the one I saw. Can a person have them refurbished
 

Guyfang

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There are two types that would fit your gen set. One, the old, first version, is what you have in your set. The next is a "Fits all" version. I will also give you the number for the 400 Hertz model, so you will NOT buy it by mistake.

A-5 GCU 50/60 Hz A5​
2910-01-373-2590​
DYNA10502-002-0-24​
A-5 GCU 400HZ A5​
2910-01-371-2532​
DYNA10503-002-0-24​
A-5 GCU 50/60 Hz Universal​
2990-01-601-2476
88-22850 or ESD5560​

I saw another type in Ebay, listed as good for the MEP-805A and MEP-805B. THIS PART WILL NOT FIT your set. So do not waste your money on it. Dead giveaway, no place to hook up your wires.
 

peapvp

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@Capt.Moondog,
before you run out and get a new A5, I would suggest that we double check the S12 Switch and wiring.

Over the years I started to realize that many folks here on SteelSoldiers own very expensive Meters like Fluke and Klein, but have very little to no knowledge on how Multi Meters actually work and how different issues are properly tested.

The colleges, like DeVry here in the US, used to spent at least 1 Semester on teaching their EE's and EET's on how to use a Multi Meter


Since we got now the wire from S12-2 to A5-1 disconnect, test as follows:

1: Measure resistance between S12-3 to S12-2 with switch set to 60Hz - you should measure below 1 Ohm

2. Measure resistance between S12-2 and the end of wire which is disconnected from A5-1 - you should measure below 1 Ohm

3. Measure resistance between S12-3 and the end of wire which is connected to K21-A with S12 set to 50 Hz - you should measure below 1 Ohm

Thanks
 
Last edited:

Capt.Moondog

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Thanks Guyfang for the parts list, and explanation of the different ones.

Peapvp I defiantly understand the not knowing what my multi meter capability's are, but only have the Craftsman's version which I'm wanting to upgrade now that I have a better understanding of multi meters. I know I have asked some dumb questions over the last several months of working on this thing, but if it helps anyone frustration yall have helped me learn a ton about the electrical side of things I just was extremely ignorant to. I'll run those test and get back with the results

Rusty
 

peapvp

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Thanks Guyfang for the parts list, and explanation of the different ones.

Peapvp I defiantly understand the not knowing what my multi meter capability's are, but only have the Craftsman's version which I'm wanting to upgrade now that I have a better understanding of multi meters. I know I have asked some dumb questions over the last several months of working on this thing, but if it helps anyone frustration yall have helped me learn a ton about the electrical side of things I just was extremely ignorant to. I'll run those test and get back with the results

Rusty
Rusty,
There are no dumb questions. Just bad answers.
When someone posts questions here, we do not know on how much background and or knowledge someone has. We usually find this out during the resolution of the problem.
Your good. So, no worry.
Peter
 

peapvp

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Is it wise just to leave the jumper wire in and run it that away?
I’m guessing A5 has something wrong with a connection inside. I looked online and there not readily available and seems expensive of the one I saw. Can a person have them refurbished
To answer your question, if you never want to generate 50 Hz then I would use the jumper.
 

Capt.Moondog

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Peter
I was hoping for something out of whack with the latest test you gave me but every one was under 1 ohms around .03 once my meter settled out on each one. So I guess that would conclude the wiring you had in question to be okay if I am thinking right.
I am going to put it on my pad and have my electrician help me hook it up to my double throw on my house and shop and fire the bad girl off and see how she works. I will keep shopping for either of the two A5 that Guyfang sent me and if I can find one that is in reasonable price I may just buy it but until then I am preparing for hurricane season with what I got.

I can't say thank you enough and I bought a subscription here on steel solider to at least give something back. It feels good to have at least found the problems and actually get the Gen up and running! It has been a long and interesting journey, from getting the engine up and running to all the crazy electrical stuff I had to fix. I did learn also that just because someone looks and acts nice when there saleing you something and saying Hey it was running perfect 2 years ago you shouldn't have any issues to run as fast as you can LOL!!

Until my next project which I been eyeing the Humvees, or if you have something else to share or to for me to test I will talk to yall fine fellas later and as us sailors say fair winds and following seas.

Rusty
 
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