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MEP 805B fuel spraying into electric governor actuator, is this normal? Question to our Engine experts

peapvp

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Please watch this video and let Jay and me know if those GAC Actuators are diesel fuel cooled and lubricated.
The fuel is pushed / sprayed into the actuator from the IP below through the actuator shaft.
I am an electrical guy and always thought fuel and electricity in one enclosure was a No No for obvious reasons.
But I may be wrong here

Video is a YouTube Short please Click on link

added picture of the opened actuator for reference

129ECD25-CDFE-47D3-B2E1-8F28439E8FE8.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Guyfang

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HOLD IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I stand corrected. I called someone I know, the only person I still know, on active. He said YES, fuel is supposed to be in there. And the rusty screw at the top, is to let air out. I most humbly apologize for my mistake.
 

peapvp

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Basehor, KS
HOLD IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I stand corrected. I called someone I know, the only person I still know, on active. He said YES, fuel is supposed to be in there. And the rusty screw at the top, is to let air out. I most humbly apologize for my mistake.
That's why I figured I ask.....
This is quite a design.......
The reason why I asked is because it seems to be only a bearing in there to the IP to hold the shaft. There is no sign of a seal. This would have brought me to the question, is there a seal in the IP which could be bad? Anyway.
This could make for some great experiential physics if the coil ever overheated and we got some sparking in there......
Thanks Guy

Peter
 

peapvp

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Basehor, KS
HOLD IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I stand corrected. I called someone I know, the only person I still know, on active. He said YES, fuel is supposed to be in there. And the rusty screw at the top, is to let air out. I most humbly apologize for my mistake.
Guy, that leaves us now only with one final question since we know now the intended purpose of the rusty screw on top:
How do you properly bleed this system of air (which would be the primary igniter)?
Thanks
Peter
 

Guyfang

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Three ways. If it starts, start it and let it run. Crack the screw, and look at the flow. By crack, I mean just a wee bit open. When you see only fuel, and no bubbles, tighten it up.

If it will not crank, go to the Fuel Supply pump on the engine. It has a small arm on it, for you to pump like crazy, and it will send fuel up through the fuel system, to the IP. Pump that sucker, for a while. Crack the rusty screw, just like above. When the flow starts to get slow, pump some more. If there are two of you, this goes much faster.

If it cranks, then simply crank the engine over, and someone else cracks the rusty screw.

Do not leave the rusty screw open too long, when you can avoid it. If you are not pumping, or not turning the engine over, you can let air into the system. Just what you are trying to get out.
 
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