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MEP 805B won’t stay running except In battle mode

B8136sx2196

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Corsicana Texas
Ok, is this the time when the problem basically started? Or did you have this issue before replacing starter / batteries?
And the other question I have:
When does your Bravo excite?

A) during start (Version 1)

B) by manually exciting moving ECS from RUN/PRIME back to START for 2 to 4 seconds after engine started successfully (Version 2)
Problems occurred way before replaced the batteries and starter. Unsure when it excites exactly. The answer would be “A” I assume then.

From reading the replies I’m starting to think maybe some the issues may be corrosion/oxidation in my start/run switch. I will investigate it further at the end of the week when I have time to work on the unit again.
 

Guyfang

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1. You have the 50 Amp upgrade. Thats CB1 in the pictures. It was a MWO applied to most of the 805A and 8ß6A sets long agao.

2. You have the Mark 2 start switch, (S1). They are not famous for reliability. If the CIM goes out when you fool around with the S1, I would say there is a more then a good chance its bad. I would see about getting a Mark 3 switch.
 

B8136sx2196

New member
17
19
3
Location
Corsicana Texas
1. You have the 50 Amp upgrade. Thats CB1 in the pictures. It was a MWO applied to most of the 805A and 8ß6A sets long agao.

2. You have the Mark 2 start switch, (S1). They are not famous for reliability. If the CIM goes out when you fool around with the S1, I would say there is a more then a good chance its bad. I would see about getting a Mark 3 switch.
Do you have a part number or a source for this mark 3 switch?
 

peapvp

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This thing is starting to turn into Police Squad with Leslie Nielsen

Question:
A) Who put this in
B) when was this put in? Before or after starter change?
C) what purpose does it have?
D) what is the red + black wire for, lead too?
E) Could there be more stuff like this in your Genset

the person who put those in, must have had a thought about something


52806C6F-7F58-4545-85B7-CD7DCD2680E3.jpeg

AF8FFBCB-1278-4DA0-839A-EAD58DC8A9DC.jpeg
 

B8136sx2196

New member
17
19
3
Location
Corsicana Texas
This thing is starting to turn into Police Squad with Leslie Nielsen

Question:
A) Who put this in
B) when was this put in? Before or after starter change?
C) what purpose does it have?
D) what is the red + black wire for, lead too?
E) Could there be more stuff like this in your Genset

the person who put those in, must have had a thought about something


View attachment 877627

View attachment 877628
A) Who put this in. I did
B) when was this put in? Before or after starter change? After
C) what purpose does it have? Thought we might have poor grounding. Put a ground bar in and cut the solderless connectors . Then daisy chained the grounds from bus bar to bus bar to the ground at the starter that ties in the batteries.
D) what is the red + black wire for, lead too? Answered in C
E) Could there be more stuff like this in your Genset. No. I did take out the connector from the harness to the actuator. And direct wired it. That fixed the voltage to the actuator. ( it was in one of the threads that was a possible cause of no voltage to the actuator.
 

Guyfang

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C) what purpose does it have? Thought we might have poor grounding. Put a ground bar in and cut the solderless connectors . Then daisy chained the grounds from bus bar to bus bar to the ground at the starter that ties in the batteries.

What could be your reasoning for this? What faults gave you this decision? As long as the connectors were clean and tight, they should have been good. What are the wire numbers that you hooked to the bar?
 

B8136sx2196

New member
17
19
3
Location
Corsicana Texas
C) what purpose does it have? Thought we might have poor grounding. Put a ground bar in and cut the solderless connectors . Then daisy chained the grounds from bus bar to bus bar to the ground at the starter that ties in the batteries.

What could be your reasoning for this? What faults gave you this decision? As long as the connectors were clean and tight, they should have been good. What are the wire numbers that you hooked to the bar?
The reasoning for this is in the steel
Soldiers threads the solderless connectors were reported to possibly have oxidation/ corrosion. All those white wires went to a central stud. If you cut off the old solderless connector and added a new one they would not be long enough to reach that ground. I knew I had a wiring issue. We start by cleaning all the ground posts and checking grounds to ensure a good connection.
 

B8136sx2196

New member
17
19
3
Location
Corsicana Texas
C) what purpose does it have? Thought we might have poor grounding. Put a ground bar in and cut the solderless connectors . Then daisy chained the grounds from bus bar to bus bar to the ground at the starter that ties in the batteries.

What could be your reasoning for this? What faults gave you this decision? As long as the connectors were clean and tight, they should have been good. What are the wire numbers that you hooked to the bar?
The reasoning for this is in the steel
Soldiers threads the solderless connectors were reported to possibly have oxidation/ corrosion. All those white wires went to a central stud. If you cut off the old solderless connector and added a new one they would not be long enough to reach that ground. I knew I had a wiring issue. We start by cleaning all the ground posts and checking grounds to ensure a good connection.
DHR10C57410EF​

5930-01-531-2972​
most places show this is part number is discontinued with nothing to cross it over. One place had the switch and it was 800.00.
 

peapvp

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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1,235
113
Location
Basehor, KS
The reasoning for this is in the steel
Soldiers threads the solderless connectors were reported to possibly have oxidation/ corrosion. All those white wires went to a central stud. If you cut off the old solderless connector and added a new one they would not be long enough to reach that ground. I knew I had a wiring issue. We start by cleaning all the ground posts and checking grounds to ensure a good connection.

most places show this is part number is discontinued with nothing to cross it over. One place had the switch and it was 800.00.
Jay,

Take the S1 switch out of the cubicle, mark / label all attached wires before removal and check, by removing the front plate of the switch if this is the riveted or screw version.
They are stack-able, and if you have the screw type you can remove the screws and then lift off each column and clean the contacts with deoxid.
Be careful when pulling each column off, they may have springs in them which can fall / fly out.

Peter
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,777
24,103
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
The reasoning for this is in the steel
Soldiers threads the solderless connectors were reported to possibly have oxidation/ corrosion. All those white wires went to a central stud. If you cut off the old solderless connector and added a new one they would not be long enough to reach that ground. I knew I had a wiring issue. We start by cleaning all the ground posts and checking grounds to ensure a good connection.

most places show this is part number is discontinued with nothing to cross it over. One place had the switch and it was 800.00.
You did not ask for alternate part numbers. The NSN, and part # are still listed in the FEDLOG
alt part #'s
13746
75901LJ
DHR10C57410EF is still listed on fedlog. So its a good part number.
Origanal cost, 36.58 dollars
 

peapvp

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Basehor, KS
Jay,

the other thing you may want to check on S1 is the break action

from / to stop position:
Break before make

from / to other positions:
Make before break

Peter
 

peapvp

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113
Location
Basehor, KS
I just ordered one of those Chinese switches. I will start a new thread once it arrives and I can dissect it.
 
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