no but that’s why I stated up to 300 amps of service in my home but I would say a consistent 150 amps at any given time Florida heat doesn’t mess around. Maybe it is over kill I’m not sure so your saying a 30kw would have been enough?
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Mep-807a issue
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Scoobyshep
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I'm also in FL, I can get away with a 10k (but I cheat I have alot of gas appliances). Typically before a generator project you'd do a load study to determine how big you need to go. I have a 15 here mainly because at the time it was cheap and available.
I installed a 30k for a friend and when we tested it, we had both acs cranked, the hot water running oven all 4 stove burners and the 15k load bank in brought over. We had him just around 107% power.
It's just food for thought, I'll help where i can and I know others will here too. But we will probably mock you slightly for the overkill (it's all good natured ribbing really). If I were you I would seriously look through those manuals and find the fuel consumption before you start investing a lot of money into this project
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I installed a 30k for a friend and when we tested it, we had both acs cranked, the hot water running oven all 4 stove burners and the 15k load bank in brought over. We had him just around 107% power.
It's just food for thought, I'll help where i can and I know others will here too. But we will probably mock you slightly for the overkill (it's all good natured ribbing really). If I were you I would seriously look through those manuals and find the fuel consumption before you start investing a lot of money into this project
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I appreciate it. No worries I’m a good sport, only reason I purchased it was because it was a steal, I paid 3k for it so I figured what the heck. Don’t really care about fuel consumption I have a 200 gal aux tank that will be hooked up to it. All I care about is not hearing my wife and 2 daughters complain that it’s hot when the power goes out. Usually comes back with in a few hours worst case. Unless we get hit with a hurricane then it’s been about a week or so
Scoobyshep
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The worst hurricane I can recall recently here was Irma, it left me in the dark for 9 days and that was the year I got my first MEP. Since then I think the worst I've had is only been 36 hours but it's nice to have power when it's 300° out and 600% humidity. I remember a time when the auction sites were just given these things away now you have to crack the coffers open a little bit more.
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Agreed
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You have the TM's, what is fault AL 7?
Says it’s Generator Over Voltage
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When you say it makes power when you run it on the S7, (Battle Short) are you talking about whats on the screen, whats showing at the 120 volt outlet, or the load terminals?
Well what it says on screen haven’t checked outlets or terminals
LuckeyD
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Good Day: Well a 300 AMP service. Cool. What everyone is thinking about is this 100KW has a 66 gallon fuel tank. At full load this is good for 8 hours of operation. You will not be using quite so much, but you have to plan for this fuel usage. You may get up to 10 hours on a full tank. AUX Fuel usage is capable of refilling the tank automatically from an external source. So the gen goes from about 1/4 tank to about 3/4 tank when in operation. A 60KW would do for you better, but you have what you have. When finished, this puppy will be a gem.
Next, the gen set delivers 347AMPs per phase. The data plate indicates this shown on page 0006 00-25 with change 2 in TM 9-6115-729-10 and it is often thought of as total current, but this is false. A 10KW set to 120VAC provides 104 AMPS. You got 10 times this. Your house and shop will probably load it to about 35-40% at best. The neighbor will add another 10%. You may get up to 50% load if you use everything on it. I do not believe this will occur and you will probably load it to about 40% total. If you believe this is enough for your uses, supercool. Once it is all in order, you will find that cat engine will just purr. It may slobber after a bit, but there are ways to mitigate this issue. I'll do a scratchy head trick on that monitoring circuitry, and look into the DVR programming and see what can be done. We usually were very happy if it ran as the Tech Manuals say it should in the war zones. Special Ops used a lot of them. Follow the books, and get-r-right, then I'll see about that 120/240 thing. One issue I wonder about is; how far away is your neighbor? There is what is called line loss on distribution systems. This may play a bit with the voltage setting where one end is a bit high and the other end a little low if the neighbor is a bit distant. Ask your electrician about the change over circuits so you can get an idea about those costs. Then the costs to run a line to the neighbor. The electrician can also provide an idea about line loss. If you are up on all that type stuff, I recommend a stubby pencil trick for a bit. Let us know what your progress is.
Next, the gen set delivers 347AMPs per phase. The data plate indicates this shown on page 0006 00-25 with change 2 in TM 9-6115-729-10 and it is often thought of as total current, but this is false. A 10KW set to 120VAC provides 104 AMPS. You got 10 times this. Your house and shop will probably load it to about 35-40% at best. The neighbor will add another 10%. You may get up to 50% load if you use everything on it. I do not believe this will occur and you will probably load it to about 40% total. If you believe this is enough for your uses, supercool. Once it is all in order, you will find that cat engine will just purr. It may slobber after a bit, but there are ways to mitigate this issue. I'll do a scratchy head trick on that monitoring circuitry, and look into the DVR programming and see what can be done. We usually were very happy if it ran as the Tech Manuals say it should in the war zones. Special Ops used a lot of them. Follow the books, and get-r-right, then I'll see about that 120/240 thing. One issue I wonder about is; how far away is your neighbor? There is what is called line loss on distribution systems. This may play a bit with the voltage setting where one end is a bit high and the other end a little low if the neighbor is a bit distant. Ask your electrician about the change over circuits so you can get an idea about those costs. Then the costs to run a line to the neighbor. The electrician can also provide an idea about line loss. If you are up on all that type stuff, I recommend a stubby pencil trick for a bit. Let us know what your progress is.
Scoobyshep
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Line loss can be mitigated by larger wire or using a boost transformer.
Fuel consumption though will be epic.
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Fuel consumption though will be epic.
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Thank you for the positive post and information I appreciate all you guys for all the information and help
So went out there today to mess around with the genset and couldn’t get the sucker to run now. I cleared all the codes and tried cranking and it won’t run get FMI 7 as the only code. If I hit it with ether it will run so it’s obviously not injecting fuel. Any ideas thanks
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Update?
Well got the genset sorted out after reprogramming the Dvr but not the motor only runs when it wants I thought it was the ipr valve and changed it out but still does the same thing. Won’t start all day and then all the sudden starts up in the morning and runs for about 20 mins and shuts off and won’t start again till the next day
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By "Wont start", do you mean, it cranks, but wont start? Or it will not even crank?
All a diesel needs to run is Fuel, Compression and Air. So if you can remove the last Injector line and turn it over, you can see if its a fuel problem. Hard to think its an Air problem. And Compression seems to be there as it will run sometimes. So if its a fuel problem, you need to see if the fuel is getting to the IP and Through the IP. If it gets too the IP and not Through the IP, you need to look at the fuel cut off solenoid. It could be plugged up. It could be that the 24 VDC is somehow being interrupted. Broken/Loose wire. If a safety function is cutting off the 24VDC to the solenoid, then you should be getting an idiot light.
All a diesel needs to run is Fuel, Compression and Air. So if you can remove the last Injector line and turn it over, you can see if its a fuel problem. Hard to think its an Air problem. And Compression seems to be there as it will run sometimes. So if its a fuel problem, you need to see if the fuel is getting to the IP and Through the IP. If it gets too the IP and not Through the IP, you need to look at the fuel cut off solenoid. It could be plugged up. It could be that the 24 VDC is somehow being interrupted. Broken/Loose wire. If a safety function is cutting off the 24VDC to the solenoid, then you should be getting an idiot light.
Cranks no start the computer doesn’t tell the injectors to fire