MEP 831-A K1 relay won’t engage

[Sidis8]

Hey guys, got a 831-a, and having a problem with the a/c contractor (k1). My problem is basically the switch on the front (S5) won’t engage the relay (k1). I know k1 is good, I pulled it out and energized it with 24 and the relay clicks and has continuity. I pulled out S5 too, tested ok. If I hot wire k1 when the generator is running, it puts out power at the convenience receptacle and terminal lugs, and the load meter works like it should.

Any body run into this problem before ? I think someone was in here trying to fix it before me, a bunch of the cable ties were cut off from the harnesses.

The wiring diagram also shows how to wire up k1 but if I go by it, the fuel pump (e2) doesn’t work. I’ll attach a pic. K1 isn’t labeled with 1 or 2 like in the diagram.

 

[DieselAddict]

Are you able to see the wire numbers to make sure they are all in the correct locations?

Do you have any bad terminals?

Have you checked for continuity between the wire ends and the big connectors?

 

[Sidis8]

Are you able to see the wire numbers to make sure they are all in the correct locations?


That’s the weird part, if I wire it up like in the diagram, 24 v from tb4-8 goes to the left bottom side of k1 in the picture. Then the power to e2 fuel pump cones out of the right bottom terminal but the pump won’t run, it’s o my putting out 17 volts. Does it make sense that a power leg for the fuel pump would go through a coil ?


Do you have any bad terminals?

I don’t think so, I’ve been testing at all the TPs and everything seems to be on point.

Have you checked for continuity between the wire ends and the big connectors?

Yh traced the wires and they seem fine.


Am I correct in assuming from looking at k1 that the bottom left terminal is 1 ?

 

[Sidis8]

Also Does the S5 switch close a ground ?

 

[kloppk]

With no Faults, Battleshort OFF, set running S5-4, S5-5 and S5-6 should be at 0 volts and S5-2 should be at 24 volts.
The coil terminals of K1 (the unlabelled ones) should both be at 24 volts.

When you toggle S5 to CLOSE and hold it there S5-4, S5-5 and S5-6 should still be at 0 volts and S5-2 should go from 24 volts to 0 volts.
Also 1 coil terminal of the contactor should remain at 24 volts and the other should go to 0 volts.
When S5-2 go to 0 volts this should cause the contactor to close. S5-2 is connected via the wiring to one of K1's coil terminals.

Do you have a copy of TM 9-6115-639-13? There is a schematic at the back of it.

E2 gets it's 24 volt power from K1-1. Terminal K1-1 is the one that should have 24 volts on it with no Faults, Battleshort OFF, set running.

 

[Guyfang]

Have you ever seen this set run right? Is it new to you, or been running and stopped?

 

[Sidis8]

Thanks to kloppk, problems been solved.

Ended up being a reverse wire on the battle short switch. Flipped both around and K1 works like it should. The S7- 5 and 8 contacts were backwards. Thanks again to kloppk. Guy knows his stuff.

 

[Guyfang]

Thats why I asked if you had ever seen it work.

 

[Sidis8]

Thats why I asked if you had ever seen it work.

No never seen it work like it should. With a bunch of the cable ties cut, it makes me think that somebody was in here trying to fix it before but gave up.

 

[Guyfang]

Like I said, that's the reason I asked. When ever someone says Its new, and I have never seen it work right, the first thing to do is start looking at wires. Happens way more then folks think it does. Glad you found it. And yes, Kloppk knows his stuff!

 

[kloppk]

Always glad to help. Now on to fixing the next one!