MEP-831a circuit interuptor adjustable?

[Falstaff]

I have a new to me 831. 95 hours, runs fine, but has givernor issues. The mainproblem is that the circuit interuptor for the lug terminals trips with almost any load. My skill saw instantly trips it, but the same saw works fine on the convienece outlet. Is the circuit in nteruptor adjustable for sensitivity? The cap over the green light screws in or out it seemed to Effect the the sensitivity a small amount but not enough to start the saw.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Do you have any fault lights?

 

[kloppk]

As mentioned, any fault lights when it trips?

No it is not adjustable. The cap over the green light just unscrews for changing the bulb in the light. Turning it had no affect on the contactor operation.
Do you have a fully charged battey(s) in the set?

If no Fault lights then I'd suggest monitoring the DC voltage at the slave recepticle while it's running and you apply a load that trips the contactor. It ought to remain at about 28 volts DC.

Do you have the inverter ser to 120 or 240?
If 240 which teo lugs are you using to power the saw?
Instead of a saw try a 1,500 watt spCe heater.
Saws have large start up currents which might trip the OL protection.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Not having experience with the temperamental 831s... whats the convenience outlet rated for?

 

[kloppk]

10 Amps

 

[Falstaff]

10 Amps

As mentioned, any fault lights when it trips?

No it is not adjustable. The cap over the green light just unscrews for changing the bulb in the light. Turning it had no affect on the contactor operation.
Do you have a fully charged battey(s) in the set?

If no Fault lights then I'd suggest monitoring the DC voltage at the slave recepticle while it's running and you apply a load that trips the contactor. It ought to remain at about 28 volts DC.

Do you have the inverter ser to 120 or 240?
If 240 which teo lugs are you using to power the saw?
Instead of a saw try a 1,500 watt spCe heater.
Saws have large start up currents which might trip the OL protection.

No fault lights
Invertor set for 240
The saw is an old American made Milwaukee 15 amp worm drive saw. The 10 amp convience outlet runs the saw fine!

If i reset the CI light while the saw is still spinning, it will power up the saw without tripping, I know motors have large startup surge but this saw runs fine on a predator 3500 generator

A shop vac runs fine on the terminals

Maybe i’m just expecting too much but I really thought it would run a saw!

The 24v battery is dead dead, i have it jumped, I was seeing 29 volts at the nato slave plug while she was running. I have not monitored it yet der an A/C load to see if it falls off yet.

 

[kloppk]

Since you are running it in 240 V mode the most you should pull on one of the 120 legs is ~15 amps at the lugs.
The saws startup current is probably tripping it.

If you don't need 240 volts then reconfigure the inverter to 120 V mode. !! Only do this with the set shut OFF !!
Once you do that you'll have 30 amps at 120 V available at the lugs.
See if your saw will work that way.

 

[Falstaff]

I have determined that the CI is fine. It’s the tempermental mech/elec governor system. (If i hold the magnet thing at a slightly higher RPM, the saw works fine on the terminals.

I will now study the calibration procedure mentioned by others and see how far out of adjustment it is. Attached is a photo of the governor assemblies, is there anything missing? It seems like there should be another spring innthere somewhere. The unit will not even start unless I clamp the fuel lever in the start pisition with the black knob.

 

[kloppk]

The Black knob should be locked in the Start position and not moved.

Looks like someone messed with the top mechanical governor adjustment screw. The factory locking wire and lead seal are missing. Can't tell if the lower locking wire and seal are missing too.
There is an adjustment procedure for the Governor Controller and the mechanical governor rod length in the -13 TM.

 

[Falstaff]

The Black knob should be locked in the Start position and not moved.

Looks like someone messed with the top mechanical governor adjustment screw. The factory locking wire and lead seal are missing. Can't tell if the lower locking wire and seal are missing too.
There is an adjustment procedure for the Governor Controller and the mechanical governor rod length in the -13 TM.

The bottom screw has the lead seal and wire intact,
I ran the unit yesterday using the output terminals to charge an electric car, it worked great ran for 6 hours at 40% load.

Now this morning she wont start, lots of white/gray smoke and backfire pops and spits with occasional blue tinged smoke (i think, I’m somewhat color blind)
Would a restricted fuel filter cause it to smoke alot and try to start but quickly die?

 

[Falstaff]

Now she realky doesnt want to start!

 

[DieselAddict]

Does the fuel pump run? Do you have fuel returning to the tank?

 

[Kenny0]

Check and see if the crankcase is overfull.

 

[Guyfang]

That would be my guess.

 

[Falstaff]

Does the fuel pump run? Do you have fuel returning to the tank?

Yes i can hear the fuel pump running, where would i look to see if the return line is pumping?
I did change the oil, but again, the generator ran fine immediately after. It wasnt until the next day i tried to use it when it starting smoking real
Bad and not starting. It might be a little over filled but again, immediately after the oil change it ran fine.
Thanks for the tips gentlemen, i will drain some oil out today and see what happens.

 

[Kenny0]

Make sure the oil is not getting diluted with diesel fuel. Also remove the air filter and see if that makes any difference, then put it back in.

 

[kloppk]

... where would i look to see if the return line is pumping?

You can look in the fuel filler opening. Take the screen out.
You should see fuel dribbling in on the left side when looking in it.

 

[uniquify]

When you changed the oil, did you by chance add oil using the fill cap on the valve cover? If the oil was cold, it could take a while for the oil to run down through the block, which could hide overfilling for a little bit.

 

[AfghanVeteran2010]

Might want to take a look at your valve lashing, then valve seals if it persist. Looks like what mine was doing when it had low compression.

Here's is a video of what mine was doing. It did the same thing as yours, ran for awhile then next day it would no start.

 

[Falstaff]

Check and see if the crankcase is overfull.

Bingo, too much oil, plugged her up. After draining oil, running very nice, removing muffler and
Extensive cranking, blew out the oil and running nicely. Thanks for all the help gentlemen.