MEP 831A Issues with not charging the lugs

kloppk

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The voltages need to be taken across the terminal pairs such A & B, A & C, B & C.
IE hook one meter probe to terminal A and the other to terminal B.

293 Hz is way to high a frequency/RPM for no load. You need to perform the Governor Adjustment procedure .
It's in the 13&P TM.
If you can't achieve 254 Hz at no load then your Governor Controller module is probably toast. They fail frequently.
 

Dewie38

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First get the right voltage and freq. readings, then troubleshooting can be done.
Dont jump into buying an inverter you dont need, if your voltage is wrong then maybe K15 isnt closing properly and you cant close the contactor.
 

Guyfang

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First get the right voltage and freq. readings, then troubleshooting can be done.
Dont jump into buying an inverter you dont need, if your voltage is wrong then maybe K15 isnt closing properly and you cant close the contactor.

You need to print this out, and hang it on the wall.
 

bcheval

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The voltages need to be taken across the terminal pairs such A & B, A & C, B & C.
IE hook one meter probe to terminal A and the other to terminal B.

293 Hz is way to high a frequency/RPM for no load. You need to perform the Governor Adjustment procedure .
It's in the 13&P TM.
If you can't achieve 254 Hz at no load then your Governor Controller module is probably toast. They fail frequently.
Just took the correct voltages from terminals, as follows:
A&B = 208V 293Hz

Governor set to start

Thanks for your help
 

kloppk

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Sounds like you are using the pull start. Once it starts you need to move S1 briefly to Start and then release it. Then lift the actuator a bit to allow the manual start pin to pop out. Then slowly lower the actuator to allow the electronic governor to take over. Se the Manual Start plate on the set for directions.
 

bcheval

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Sounds like you are using the pull start. Once it starts you need to move S1 briefly to Start and then release it. Then lift the actuator a bit to allow the manual start pin to pop out. Then slowly lower the actuator to allow the electronic governor to take over. Se the Manual Start plate on the set for directions.
I was talking about the manual adj on the throttle. It has two settings Stop and Start. I have been just leaving it on start. Is this incorrect?
 

bcheval

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Location
Ft Worth Texas
Sounds like you are using the pull start. Once it starts you need to move S1 briefly to Start and then release it. Then lift the actuator a bit to allow the manual start pin to pop out. Then slowly lower the actuator to allow the electronic governor to take over. Se the Manual Start plate on the set for directions.
I worked on adj the gov today and never could get it to adj without killing the motor. The best I achieved was 194V. The Gov kept trying to rev the motor up and down. The gov module tested at 10 Ohms so I think it is ok. However, the linkage is odd. I had to adj the throttle rod all the way out to meet the requirements of the TM. I am wondering if someone played with the arm before I got the unit. Thoughts?
Thanks
Ed
 

DD58

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Ok so first thing is on your TM flip to page 4-45 there a section on how to rest your governor actuator linkage per the instruction on this page. What it sounds like is a bad gov controller. I had my unit idle up then down and up and down. Dewie gave me a hand and we were able to determine the gov controller was bad as well as the inverter went bad.
Once you have the linkage adjusted there’s a few different pods that you can adjust on the gov controller. I’m the TM around 4-44 to 4-46 I think explains how to and what each one does. But only move them after your linkage is back.

Also did your meter on the front panel show any voltage being made? From what I have read trying to keep my 831 going the inverters are going to be the down fall of these units. There is some one on here selling a conversion kit for the 831 to run a regular generator head with all the factory features still in tacked. Just for future reference


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