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MEP-831a list of concerns

Brokengen

New member
7
3
3
Location
Florida
Currently getting help from Kurt klopp kind of


but my mep831 has some issues and I have some questions.

so they are


voltage meter drop to 0 when I close the circuit with load and relay k15’s red light cuts off(using a heat gun)
-output lugs are at 170 acvolts (lowering the speed on the governor module gets me to about 165 then k15 lights come

* I did get a new governor module

I also am concerned as to why the rpm’s don’t go up ?

question; do I have a bad a8 ? Or is it just the fine tuning
 

kloppk

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Pepperell, Massachusetts
After installing the new SLC100 Governor Controller did you adjust it per the -13&P Technical Manual?
If not do that first.
Here is a link to the procedure with some additional detail over the TM --> Governor Controller Adjustment Procedure

Then...
With the inverters little red switch set to 120 you should only get 120 volts AC across lugs N to L1 and N to L2.
Check those two voltages at no load.
Then shut down the generator and set the inverters little red switch to 120/240.
Restart the generator and close the contactor.
Now the AC voltage from N to L1 should be 120 volts AC, N to L2 should be 120 volts AC and L1 to L2 should be 240 volts AC.
What do you get for those readings?
 
Last edited:

Brokengen

New member
7
3
3
Location
Florida
So r
After installing the new SLC100 Governor Controller did you adjust it per the -13&P Technical Manual?
If not do that first.
Here is a link to the procedure with some additional detail over the TM --> Governor Controller Adjustment Procedure

Then...
With the inverters little red switch set to 120 you should only get 120 volts AC across lugs N to L1 and N to L2.
Check those two voltages at no load.
Then shut down the generator and set the inverters little red switch to 120/240.
Restart the generator and close the contactor.
Now the AC voltage from N to L1 should be 120 volts AC, N to L2 should be 120 volts AC and L1 to L2 should be 240 volts AC.
What do you get for those readings?
So right now I’m going to re do my tuning of the governor module using the tm , but my by l1 l2 at both 120 120/240 is 170 ( on 120/240 the voltage meter goes down but the circuit somehow still closes)
 

Brokengen

New member
7
3
3
Location
Florida
After installing the new SLC100 Governor Controller did you adjust it per the -13&P Technical Manual?
If not do that first.
Here is a link to the procedure with some additional detail over the TM --> Governor Controller Adjustment Procedure

Then...
With the inverters little red switch set to 120 you should only get 120 volts AC across lugs N to L1 and N to L2.
Check those two voltages at no load.
Then shut down the generator and set the inverters little red switch to 120/240.
Restart the generator and close the contactor.
Now the AC voltage from N to L1 should be 120 volts AC, N to L2 should be 120 volts AC and L1 to L2 should be 240 volts AC.
What do you get for those readings?
Just an update now there’s no power going to starter when I flip the up switch and now it’s doing a weird sound when I flip up start

link to video :https://youtube.com/shorts/2lMqxjtI1qk?feature=share
 

kloppk

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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3,430
113
Location
Pepperell, Massachusetts
There are 4 normal sounds in the video.
1) The fan inside the inverter will be on when S1 is in Prime/Run or Start. I hear it.
2) The rapid clicking sound is the fuel pump running when S1 is in Prime/Run or start. I hear it.
3) When moving S1 to Start the K2 Start relay closes. I hear it clicking.
4) When moving S18 to PreHeat the K13 relay closes. I can hear that.

Since the starter isn't engaging you may have a flakey K2 relay, a wiring issue to/from K2 or a bum starter.
 

Brokengen

New member
7
3
3
Location
Florida
There are 4 normal sounds in the video.
1) The fan inside the inverter will be on when S1 is in Prime/Run or Start. I hear it.
2) The rapid clicking sound is the fuel pump running when S1 is in Prime/Run or start. I hear it.
3) When moving S1 to Start the K2 Start relay closes. I hear it clicking.
4) When moving S18 to PreHeat the K13 relay closes. I can hear that.

Since the starter isn't engaging you may have a flakey K2 relay, a wiring issue to/from K2 or a bum starter.
RAn through checklist and the blue tipped wire on the starter was disconnected
 

Brokengen

New member
7
3
3
Location
Florida
There are 4 normal sounds in the video.
1) The fan inside the inverter will be on when S1 is in Prime/Run or Start. I hear it.
2) The rapid clicking sound is the fuel pump running when S1 is in Prime/Run or start. I hear it.
3) When moving S1 to Start the K2 Start relay closes. I hear it clicking.
4) When moving S18 to PreHeat the K13 relay closes. I can hear that.

Since the starter isn't engaging you may have a flakey K2 relay, a wiring issue to/from K2 or a bum starter.
But back to my original issue tuned the sc100 as close as possible and now I’m getting it to hold load but the load that I used (heat gun) got fried so I’m now questioning how to turn down voltage if my voltage rheostat isn’t working yet
 
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