• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

MEP-831a will not start.

indy76

New member
17
0
0
Location
Lancaster, PA
My 2 MEP831a's arrived the other day. One is a 2005 with 30 hours on it. I blew out the fuel lines and some horrific fluid came out. I changed the fluids and filters and added fuel and fired right up. Runs fine and produces power as it should.
Now for the 2nd unit. It's a 2001 with 1100 hours. I hooked up the batteries tried the switch and nothing. The unit is pretty clean and everything appears connected as it should. I folded down the gauge and switch panel and everything is connected and looks clean. Looking for a starting point to check. The pre heater switch does not make any sounds when I flip it like my running one. Nor does the fuel pump turn on when I flip the switch to run. Thanks for you help.
 
Last edited:

uniquify

Active member
228
223
43
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Sounds like an electrical problem. Start with the easy stuff:
One 12v battery isn't enough by itself. Assuming you're using a pair of 12v batteries in series, are they both charged?
Are all battery cables getting a good connection.
Make sure the big red emergency stop switch pulled out.
Make sure the DC circuit breaker pushed in.

Both fuel pumps could be bad. Do the panel lights work?

Start small and work forward. You can do this.
 
Last edited:

Zman498

New member
7
0
1
Location
Texas
My mep831a has a similar problem, the main fuel pump is not pumping or making the humming ticking sound its suppose to. Switch it out with a brand new one and nothing. I curious if anyone know what component I can check or what component is responsible for starting up the fuel pump. Notes: Aux fuel pump works, continuity from battery to jack and plug on main fuel pump, batteries fine relays fine, no fuel in it.
 

DieselAddict

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,532
2,059
113
Location
Efland, NC
Hate to sound like a broken record but you need to start with the manuals. You can download them from the forum. There is a link at the top of the page for "Technical Manuals" aka TMs.

Go through the wiring on the machine and look for anything loose or disconnected. Check EVERY WIRE. I'm not kidding here - EVERY WIRE on EVERY TERMINAL. I'm repairing one now that needs an expensive component replaced because someone didn't check the wires and almost set it on fire.

Test the low fuel switch in the tank. The manual has troubleshooting info to test that circuit as well as all the circuits on the unit.

Until you look at the machine enough to be able to understand instructions like - Check the wiring on the COIL side of K1 since the power for the fuel pump routes through there - Its a lot harder for us to help you.
 

Zman498

New member
7
0
1
Location
Texas
Hey, good advice DieselAddict. So I went to the wire diagram and traced the circuit for the fuel pump (E2), made sure there was continuity all the way through, and checked if it was receiving DC volts, it wasn’t getting any volts. Also when the gen was on run on the START/RUN switch and circuit breaker in and E-stop pulled out, the fan inside the power converter (A-8(eight)) was not turning on. I stopped here, wondering if the power converter is bad now or if it could be a wire issue. I don’t think the relays are causing any of this, but still haven’t check them. Just letting you know where I’m at and if you know anything similar from experience let me know, thanks y’all.
 

kloppk

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,149
3,536
113
Location
Pepperell, Massachusetts
+24 volts takes a long path thru multiple wires to get to S1-5.
You ought to trace the power path from the battery's positive terminal thru all the points along it's path to S1-5.
Here are the step by step points that it get there from the battery's positive terminal

Battery + goes to Starter L4 (Big Stud)
Starter L4 (Big Stud) goes to Slave Receptacle Positive (Center Contact)
Slave Recepticle Positive (Center Contact) goes to K2-A1
K2-A1 goes to K13-A1
K13-A1 goes to P7-17
P7-17 goes to J7-17
J7-17 goes to TB5-13B
TB5-13B goes to TB5-13A
TB5-13A goes to CB-1 Line Side
CB-1 Line Side goes to CB1-Load Side
CB-1 Load Side goes to S19-A1 (Emergency Off Button)
S19-A1 (Emergency Off Button) goes to S19-A2 (Emergency Off Button)
S19-A2 (Emergency Off Button) goes to S1-5

Use your meter and check all the points along the path above, except the J7/P7 points and see if you have ~+24 volts at each point.
I suspect you will find power is not making it all the way the S1-5.
 
Last edited:

Zman498

New member
7
0
1
Location
Texas
So figured out the problem, just want to update you guys on what i found. So i went through the whole circuit for the fuel pump, testing every point with my volt meter and ended up finding nothing which was discouraging. But I was troubleshooting again on it last week and was looking at the direction of the diodes everyone, and ended up finding that the CR2 or CR3 was facing the wrong way, which was pretty crazy, I turned that diode around and started it up, did a load test, everything is fine on it know.
But i have another issue if you guys can help me on it I'd really appreciate it. So my other MEP-831A 3KW has a problem turning off. I adjusted every little spring and part right next the the electric actuator, including the magnet. It still wont shut off. Someone told my that the Masterswitch could be bad. What is happening is that, I turn on the genset and the throttle goes up high like full throttle and the genset is running like at full speed. Then i try to shut down the genset with the Masterswitch but it des not shut off, so i tried to shut it off with the Emergency switch but it still doesnt shut off so I end up shutting it down the the little lever on top of the Genset I think its called the choke idk. I appreciate any feedback guys, Thanks again.
 

kloppk

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,149
3,536
113
Location
Pepperell, Massachusetts
Suggestion..
Disconnect the white connector in the two wires going to the actuator on the engine.
Lift the actuator off the magnet. Pull start the engine using the compression relief. The engine should run at a relatively low RPM. If it's running at a high RPM then there is an issue with the mechanical governor either on the outside of the engine or inside the crankcase.
 

kloppk

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,149
3,536
113
Location
Pepperell, Massachusetts
Also try reconnecting the white plug in the wires to the actuator. Then start it normally. When running the LED in the righthand relay in the control cube should be illuminated. Then move the master switch S1 to OFF. The LED in the right hand relay should go out. Does it?
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,793
24,144
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Before knob dicking everything, you should have asked these questions. Now you have to consider whether you have to go through the TM and readjust the mechanical Gov, before trying to find out if the problem is electrical.
 

CallMeColt

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
1,026
1,476
113
Location
Wilson County, Texas
I just got mine going a few months ago & I did a lot of troubleshooting like you have. Annoying but at the same time, you learn a lot about the function of the machine. I still have some minor kinks to work out but it runs like a champ now. I posted some videos on the unit while I was troubleshooting. Here is the link to my thread here on the forum that has a lot of good information in it along with some videos I made;
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?190228-MEP-831A-Fix-up-Thread
 

sdsuguz

New member
5
2
1
Location
San Diego
So figured out the problem, just want to update you guys on what i found. So i went through the whole circuit for the fuel pump, testing every point with my volt meter and ended up finding nothing which was discouraging. But I was troubleshooting again on it last week and was looking at the direction of the diodes everyone, and ended up finding that the CR2 or CR3 was facing the wrong way, which was pretty crazy, I turned that diode around and started it up, did a load test, everything is fine on it know.
But i have another issue if you guys can help me on it I'd really appreciate it. So my other MEP-831A 3KW has a problem turning off. I adjusted every little spring and part right next the the electric actuator, including the magnet. It still wont shut off. Someone told my that the Masterswitch could be bad. What is happening is that, I turn on the genset and the throttle goes up high like full throttle and the genset is running like at full speed. Then i try to shut down the genset with the Masterswitch but it des not shut off, so i tried to shut it off with the Emergency switch but it still doesnt shut off so I end up shutting it down the the little lever on top of the Genset I think its called the choke idk. I appreciate any feedback guys, Thanks again.
Hi, thanks for posting this and I believe I’m having the same issue. Is there anyway you can pass on which direction the diodes should be?
 

sdsuguz

New member
5
2
1
Location
San Diego
Kloppk! Cannot thank you enough. I have no idea where you pulled that diagram but it’s certainly not in the 3 known pubs I’ve downloaded. Where did you get that?
Thanks again and this should solve my immediate problem.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks