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MEP-831A's in Central Virginia

kloppk

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Actually it should be...

1. Upon starting the generator, the load contacts on the contactor (A1-A2, B1-B2) will be OPEN. The indicator light on the control panel should be OFF.
2. Flipping the AC circuit interrupter switch to CLOSE and then allowing it to return to center will CLOSE the load contact on the contactor. The indicator light will TURN ON. (Actually K1 closes the moment you move S5 to the CLOSE position)
3. Flipping the AC circuit interrupted switch back to open will CAUSE the load contacts TO OPEN and the light will TURN OFF.

By default the K1 contactor remains open after starting so that power is not inadvertently supplied to the load terminals unless an operator intentionally toggles S5 to the CLOSE position.

K1 doesn't actually "latch" open. That's just it's default or off state. It can only "latch" closed.

The latching operation is as follows.

With the generator running +24 volts is supplied to K1-1 and S5 pin 5 is grounded.
When S5 is toggled to the CLOSE position it connects S5 pins 1 & 2. This creates a ground path via S5-5, S5-4, S5-1, S5-2 to K-2. This causes the contactor K1 to close. At the same time the K1 contacts (shown just above S5 in the schematic) close. When S5 is releases the K1 contacts keep applying ground to K1-2 via S5-4 & S5-5.
This is what causes the K1 contactor to "latch" closed.

When S5 is toggled to the OPEN position this causes S5-5 and S5-4 to open momentarily breaking the ground signal to the K1 contact and to K1-2. This causes the K1 contactor to open and the K1 contact above S5 to open breaking the "latch" circuit.

If your contactor closed indicator comes on immediately after starting the generator then there is something wrong.
Could be S5 is defective, the K1 contactor is welded closed, a wiring problem, or someone intentionally hotwired the K1 coil circuit.
 
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OverkillTASF

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Central Virginia
Wow, very helpful. The latching mechanism makes a LOT more sense now that I know how the **** thing is supposed to work. Will be testing that contactor bwhavior.

Update: Contactor is good and switch is good. Am able to make use of that now...

Ok, so... remaining issues.

1. Voltage output ~106 volts, voltage selector doesn't change that but does seem to change engine behavior. Maybe ignoring this until I figure out:
2. Overload/short light - I have removed the wires from the L1, N, L2 posts on the frequency converter (don't have the diagram in front of me) and I still get this. So, unfortunately it's not related to the contactor being melted which I had hoped for. I saw that moisture issues could cause this, but since I can't really run the generator for a long time (Neighbor courtesies, I'm in the city) I'm not sure I can heat it up enough to drive any moisture out. It looks like the frequency converter itself decides if there's a short or an overload. Not really sure where to go from here but will be going over the manuals as some night time reading; Doubt I'll find much.
 
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Guyfang

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Here's a quicky. To dry out the moisture, it it is present, put a 60 watt light bulb in the set over night, with it closed/covered up. That's how I would dry out components at home before installing them at the shop. Just make sure the light will not touch anything that will get damaged when the light bulb is hot.
 

OverkillTASF

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Central Virginia
Check out the first post again. Updated it, new format, gonna try to work out of this thread going forward.

On 54-512G, I am currently troubleshooting engine speed issues. The first thing is that apparently the engine, with just the mechanical governor linkage, should run at 3800RPM (317 Hz). Mine's idling at no load with A6 disconnected from the governor at 3648 (304 Hz). The governor screws don't look tinkered with. Should I just adjust the no-load idle screw on the mechanical governor?
 

OverkillTASF

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Location
Central Virginia
54-575G update:
After running a dehumidifier into the enclosure for 3 or 4 days, I still get the overload light. I swapped the malfunction indicator group for a known working one, still get the overload light. So, worst case the A4 is toast. Best case the relay inside the A4 is defective?
 

Guyfang

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Partner, what you need to do is start on one of these puppies, and work it till its done. You are spreading your time and effort on too big a plate. Just start on one and go from there. Pick the easiest one so you have a known good one, to check out parts with.
 

OverkillTASF

Member
92
6
8
Location
Central Virginia
Partner, what you need to do is start on one of these puppies, and work it till its done. You are spreading your time and effort on too big a plate. Just start on one and go from there. Pick the easiest one so you have a known good one, to check out parts with.
Tell me about it... That's definitely my priority! I just keep gettin' about as far as I can on one, so move on to the other. 54-512G is the one receiving most of my attention right now since it's really the only one that is both accessible and in a place I can run it without employing the help of the neighbor or killing my whole family.
 
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