MEP Blues

[ClintA]

I have had bad luck with the last 2 MEP's that I have won. Unit one (900 hrs) generates the right voltage and runs like a champ but it has a bad fuel leak from the IP pump that drip/runs on the oil filter, Anyone had that problem and anyone know if it can be fixed by a so-so mechanic? I bet it is a dried out seal, I am guessing?

Unit 2 (24 hrs) runs like a champ but does NOT generate 240 power (it puts out about 110) that I need to run water pumps, I took the card out of Unit 1 and put it in Unit 2 and still no power, any help and or advice would greatly be appreciated, yours truly, Clint

 

[rosco]

Unit 2: does it generate the other voltages? If it does, I'd start with the switch, and work back.

 

[Isaac-1]

My bet is on the reconnection switch also

 

[Ratch]

What model numbers are these?
I'm guessing 002 or 003 if the IP is leaking on the oil filter. I wouldn't want to remove that IP if avoidable. Hopefully it's fixable in-place. You checked the obvious, like tight fittings and lines, right?

I'd say reconnection switch on the voltage problem unit, too. But eliminate the obvious and simple, first. Check all connections for tightness, no worn-through cables, all breakers making contact when closed (using an ohmmeter with set 'off').

 

[jamawieb]

Unit 1 is going to be difficult to diagnose because we don't know exactly where the leak is, it could be connections or it could be an o-ring.

Unit 2 is more than likely the reconnection switch, are you sure the reconnection switch is set on 120/240 or is it set on 120? Also, are you checking the voltage on the legs or going by the gauge? I had one unit with a bad voltage gauge, where the needle would not increase past 120.

If both units are up and running you are very lucky, that is the most difficult item on these units. The minor glitches are just part of the addiction.

 

[ClintA]

Let me apologize for not explaining what MEP's I have, they are both 002A's. Unit one is leaking diesel from the IP pump where the bottom left Allen bolt is. There are four Allen bolts in a square and each one has a wedge/spacer behind it and the diesel leaks out from the bottom left one where the wedge is, I took it out, (Just that one and made sure it was tight) but I bet it is the O ring but I am not sure if one can take all Allen's off and replace the O ring?
Unit 2, I checked Volts this morning and this is what it read, (with the Volt knob turned all the way up) L1+L3 was 133 volts, L1+LO was 0 volts, L2+L3 was 33 volts, L2+L3 was 76 volts and the plugs where you would run a drill/grinder was 133 volts. I took the cover off and checked all wires and traced L1 and took them off and cleaned them off, shined them up with a file and still dead. the reconnection switch is on 120/240 but will not move, in fact I broke the plastic knob trying to switch it. I am no electrician and am stumped, I thank you all for all your help!!

 

[Ray70]

Unless I'm mistaken, it sounds like you're connecting to the wrong terminals on your buzz bar. L0 is your neutral and L2 and L3 are your hot wires when using the 240V setup. So you should get 120V between L2-L0 and L3-L0. You also have to have the switch on the front of your control cubicle in the right position or the gage will read 120 instead of 240V. As for the stuck AC switch, I'd try working the reconnect switch to free it up. Open up the cover on the side of the AC connection box, loosen the nuts on the long screws that hold the switch assemble together then get some lubricant spray with a straw on the can and spray in between the sections of the switch. Let it sit a while, then try working the switch and see if it will free up. You might have it stuck in a position where your not getting connections on bot of the hot legs. Verify your switch settings , then verify the voltage on L0-L2 and L0-L3 and let us know what you're getting.

 

[Ray70]

Maybe take a look at the MEP-003A connection Sticky and see if you've got things set and wired correctly.... once the basics are verified, then move on to more in-depth troubleshooting. Good luck, hope it turns out to be a simple fix.

 

[jamawieb]

Unit 1: You're more than likely looking at the o-ring on the throttle arm. If you take your time and have patience you can remove and replace the o-ring without taking out the IP.

Unit 2: On the reconnection switch, it should be moved all the way to the right (where the arrow points to the fuel pumps on the plastic knob) You should have readings between L0-L1 and L0-L3. The readings will defer where you have the voltage set on the knob below the voltage gauge.

Good Luck!

 

[BadBrad1]

Taking out the fuel pump is really not that big a deal. I just took mine out a couple weeks ago, it was the first time I had ever done so. I put the motor to top dead center compression stroke and verified so by the timing marks on the flywheel and removed the pump.

To re-install I verified that the motor had not moved, removed the plug on the left side of the pump base, inserted a piece of brass rod and rotated the gear on the pump until the hole in the gear aligned with the hole in the base and pushed in the brass rod locking the geared pump rotor in position. Then installed the pump, pulled out the brass rod and inserted the plug and done. Bled the lines to the injectors and away it went.

Just don't loose any shims between the pump and block when removing or installing. The throttle control shaft has a o-ring and it may be leaking. It would be easy to replace, cannot speak to any other pump repairs as haven't torn one apart but removal and installation of the pump to motor is relatively straight forward.

 

[bsorcs]

Slick!

 

[Keith_J]

Yes, overhaul of the Ambac Model 50 pump is easy, sounds like it is one of the o rings. Just like Brad said, the pump is easy to pull and time. Since you just have a leak, repair yourself is actually better since timing will not change.

Once out, the limit of disassembly is just to pull the fuel control lever, then the hydraulic head can be pulled from the body, allowing replacement of the o rings.

There are threads here on this subject, just search.

 

[ClintA]

Update!!! Unit 2 is up and running, it was the reconnection switch for sure, Dad and I took it out and a little WD-40 and worked it until it clicked in all positions, put it back together and we have power!! I just wanted to say thank you for all your help, now if I can be brave enough to mess with the IP on Unit 1 and get it to stop leaking I can pump all kinds of water!!! Thanks again, you guys rule!!

 

[storeman]

Good going! I still question your hook up. Only L1, L3 and L0 are involved in producing 240V, as I recall. Not looking at my units at present and am old, so if wrong, forgive me. L2 is only involved with 3 phase.
Jerry

 

[ClintA]

Storeman, I am sorry that I did not ex plane what I did with the wires, I did not have ant wires hooked up, in fact I will today, I was just reading volts where you hook the wires to the copper nuts and reporting what volts were there when the Unit was running. I am hooking it up like you say L1,L3 and ground is L0 today, and put diesel in the 150 gal fuel tank and pull it down to the south end of the ranch and start pumping water. Thanks for all your help!!

 

[Keith_J]

I would order the o ring kit from Ambac and while waiting on it, read the threads in the forum on pulling the pump and replacing the rings. The one rule if thumb is disassemble the pump is a clean area. Berryman B12 carb cleaner spray will remove diesel varnish fast but it won't lube the pump, WD40 works fine for assembly lube and it is clean from the spray can.

Those four socket head cap screws secure the hydraulic head to the pump body but unless you can remove the fuel control lever, the hydraulic head will not come out. It is far easier to line up the PC mark with the flywheel pointer, then double check by feeling the #1 push rods are slack and remove the whole pump. Yes, lots of work as injector lines must be pulled along with valve cover.