Mep002a multi faults

[ohnuts]

Purchased a ready for issue generator that looked good a year ago when first viewed for purchase. The generator set for six months before coming up for sale and then it set for six months on my property. Of course it wont run.

Fuel Pumps work because the fuel filter cans were loose and the fuel input line to the IP was backed off. Explaining the flood of diesel that went over the side of the trailer. Maybe not a flood but when your shoes are under the flow of fuel it seems like a flood.

The starter wont turnover with the master switch but the starter solenoid can be jumped with a remote and the starter turns over the engine.

With fuel up to the IP the engine remains dry. The engine will run off the fumes of a shop rag dipped in gas stuck in the filter canister beside the filter.

The fuel cutoff solenoid retracts fully every time the the master switch goes to start, the IP being dry isn't a solenoid issue. Anybody know if the signal to the fuel cutoff solenoid goes through the starter lockout switch?


Think I might have three problems.

Fault (1) The IP I think is stuck from sitting so long, so I'll remove it and try to
free it up.

Fault (2) The alternator/battery/regulator fuse blows every time I go to start
on the master switch. Bad wires, shorted alternator coil, bad
regulator? I have the Tm's to check those out but think its the last
thing on my list. I just need the battery to start the beast or my
NATO cable. So the fuse is not a must have to run, any other words
on this being a must do to generate ac power?

Fault (3) The starter lockout gear and switch assembly may be the
gremlin for the starter not starting. The lockout gear switch also
drops out the generator from generating power. So if I fix the IP and
remote jump the starter solenoid bypassing the lockout switch.
Starting the motor but the generator puts out no power.
Then the bet is the lock-out switch is bad or out of adjustment,
opinions?

Think this is the order to try and fix this thing. Anybody see a better order to check this machine?

Will post picks when tearing down.

 

[m38inmaine]

Go to the TM forum here and download the manual. It will take you through the steps to troubleshoot. Might be the master switch or a relay bad, best to follow step by step in the TM.

 

[Carl_in_NH]

I had IP problems when I first got my 003A; there was a missing part inside the IP - the delivery valve, if memory serves. Parts from AMBAC for the pump are there - but way too expensive. Ended up buying another IP, and purchasing the correct timing button from AMBAC, and that solved my issues.

There are a number of places the IP can either get gummed up or stick; make certain the fuel rack is going full-on when the shut-off retracts. Sometimes the fuel stays off due to the valve not rotating.

The pump piston that's driven off the cam can also stick - and then you don't have high pressure fuel.

These pumps are easy to work on, but be careful - everything is a precision fit so work in a clean area.

The AMBAC website also has information on this obsolete pump - a fairly good manual pdf is there, along with other documentation. There's more specific information about the pump itself on the AMBAC site than is contained in the TM - but you want all the information from both sources.

You'll need to retime the pump to the engine - make a small tool to do this out of a piece of 0.125" brass rod. Instructions on retiming are in the TM.

Let us know how you make out.

 

[kipman]

I have parts for the mep 003aA if you need some.

 

[Carl_in_NH]

FYI - the IP is the same on the 002A and 003A - so bear that in mind if you go looking for another IP or IP parts.

 

[kipman]

Thanks Carl.

 

[kipman]

Plus now have control panels for sale.

 

[steelandcanvas]

Plus now have control panels for sale.

Are they nice, or all faded out like most?

 

[kipman]

like most

 

[ohnuts]

You'll need to re-time the pump to the engine - make a small tool to do this out of a piece of 0.125" brass rod. Instructions on re-timing are in the TM.

Was thinking the gear on the back of the IP had to match the stroke at some point.

thanks.

 

[Isaac-1]

Some company was selling off their inventory of rebuilt MEP-002/003 injection pumps on ebay a few weeks ago, just in case you need one.

Ike

 

[Speddmon]

Ohnuts,

The start lockout switch has nothing to do with the generator not making power. It only keeps the starter from trying to engage when you have to manually flash the field after the set is running. If you get it to run, but still have no power there are other issues as well.

 

[ohnuts]

I started page one and went through the TM. Been a long time since I went back to square one on a TM and just went with the flow. The book had me check the Alternator fuse then the fuse holder, took off the fan shroud. Then checked out the master switch, dropped the control panel front. Then checked out the starter for shorts. Then went on a tool buying trip and had lunch. While having lunch I started reading the manuals (three) general description section.

It (TM) makes mention that if the batteries are installed back-wards a safety will cutout the starter. Also the master switch has continuity with nothing in the off position. Yet my alternator safety fuse was blowing with the switch off. So I found a drawing of the battery charging circuit and I had everything back-wards.

There is a plate on the side of the generator rail that shows the arrangement I had but it's not the correct end product. I was going with the side plate and what I had for photo's off of GL lots for cable runs.

Well the gen set runs and has oil pressure and is smooth as silk on the idle and the juice.

The Tm's did not catch this but after some TM reading things started to add up. Plus the blown fuse with nothing on had felt like a reversed polarity issue.

The knob that turns for motor rpm were do you start with it, full clockwise or counterclockwise? Or somewhere in between? Tm does not really say.

 

[originalboxcar]

I initially would pull the throttle about half way out when I first got me set and then warm it up for 60 secs and crank it. Once you get the unit running with no load, dial the throttle in at 60hz. Once it's running at operating temp, you might have to tweak the throttle to readjust to get in at 60hz. Shut it off with these settings and then leave it and fire it up just like it is. Starts right up everytime, winter, spring summer or fall!