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MEP002A won't crank and no panel lights

grannygearGA

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Ellijay, GA
A little background - I bought my genset about 10 years ago and its run totally fine despite not getting proper maintenance other than oil changes. The batteries needed to be replaced a few weeks ago, so I did that, and then fired it up. It ran fine for about 10 minutes, and then shut down.

Since then, it won't crank, and the panel lights won't even come on. I am all but certain that the batteries are fine (they're a month old and have been on a trickle charger since day 1). The simplest example I can give is that I get 24+ volts at the panel light switch when its off, but when I flip it on the voltage drops to 1.8V and the lights don't come on. Seems like a clue that someone with better troubleshooting skills than I could use to identify the problem!

I'm guessing that I've got some damaged wire somewhere, but am not seeing it. Is there some way to narrow down the search grid?
 

rickf

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Sounds to me like you have a bad battery connection. The most likely one would be the ground to chassis connection. But check and clean all of the battery connections, both ends of each cable. Also check the voltage on each battery separately from positive post to negative post and be sure each battery is at least 12 volts. You do not need to disconnect anything to do this, just be sure to go between the posts of the battery you are checking. The fact you are dropping from 24 to one tells me you have a bad main battery connection, either the ground to chassis or positive to starter where all the other hot leads come together.
 

Chainbreaker

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Oregon
I would check all the braided ground straps that tie to chassis. Especially, the one on the left rear corner of the Control Panel box. If any of the gnd straps get corroded or loose, especially if intermittent, all kinds of weirdness can happen.
 

glcaines

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Hiawassee, Georgia
Follow everyone's advice above. However, don't assume your batteries are OK. I had a battery years ago that I kept a trickle charger on. It tested close to 13 VDC with a VOM. However, when put under even a very slight load, it went basically open, and then went back to close to 13 VDC once the load was removed. It was an almost new battery that failed. To properly test the batteries, put them under a load and test them separately.
 

grannygearGA

New member
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Location
Ellijay, GA
I replaced the battery cables and ground straps and cleaned the associated connection points. I thought that had fixed it since the lights started working reliably and the fuel pumps were running, but when I cranked the generator there was a loud pop and the voltage dropped to 0 again.

After some further tracing with the multimeter, I found that somehow, despite being clean and tight, the positive battery terminal clamp wasn't conducting electricity (well, 0.5V....). I bypassed that clamp and she fired right up.

Going to put new clamps on and I think that will resolve the issue. In the meantime, I'll catch up on my deferred maintenance.

Thanks for all of the help. It steered me in the right direction.
 

Scoobyshep

Well-known member
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Location
Florida
I replaced the battery cables and ground straps and cleaned the associated connection points. I thought that had fixed it since the lights started working reliably and the fuel pumps were running, but when I cranked the generator there was a loud pop and the voltage dropped to 0 again.

After some further tracing with the multimeter, I found that somehow, despite being clean and tight, the positive battery terminal clamp wasn't conducting electricity (well, 0.5V....). I bypassed that clamp and she fired right up.

Going to put new clamps on and I think that will resolve the issue. In the meantime, I'll catch up on my deferred maintenance.

Thanks for all of the help. It steered me in the right direction.
Glad you were able to get it resolved, little dielectric grease on the terminals goes a long way

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
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