-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Mep003a leaking injectors
- Thread starter noflyguy
- Start date
- 16,690
- 23,881
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
How ever you do it, it will require removal of the Injectors. Then disassembly. If you ask @Ray70 nice, he might let you use his injector test rig. Then you can decide what needs to be done after that.
- 3,813
- 5,882
- 113
- Location
- MA
Think this is what you are looking for: https://www.ebay.com/itm/401150315548
- 3,813
- 5,882
- 113
- Location
- MA
Ray70
Well-known member
- 2,573
- 5,826
- 113
- Location
- West greenwich/RI
These are the ones I buy to rebuild the 002/003 injectors. Work perfect every time!
It's often not even worth trying to disassemble and clean them If the injectors were overheated due to leaking the nozzles will most likely be stuck open and will be cheaper to replace than to try to clean and repair.
Last edited:
Thanks for the info. I think I just figured out how to reply
- 16,690
- 23,881
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
Just cleaning up a bit.
- 3,813
- 5,882
- 113
- Location
- MA
Ray70
Well-known member
- 2,573
- 5,826
- 113
- Location
- West greenwich/RI
Go ahead, ask away! 
I'm a car guy and am not familiar with diesel. My current project is a 1934 Pontiac 4dr sedan restomod. I have the tools and ability to remove the injectors from the mep003a. In addition to the nozzles you recommended (which I ordered), are there any other parts needed to clean and repair the injectors? ie; o rings, gaskets, etc.? Are there any special tools needed? After finding out the shop labor charge I decided to remove the injectors and have the shop test and repair the injectors after I remove them. This gen is taking me away from my project . Thanks for your help !Go ahead, ask away!
Ray70
Well-known member
- 2,573
- 5,826
- 113
- Location
- West greenwich/RI
The injectors seal to the head with a copper ring down against the head, a flat steel washer about 1/8" thick and a fiber washer above that which seals the injector body to the metal "washer" ( these 3 pieces are sold both individually and in a kit, PN's are shown in the TM )
However, the fiber washer is really the only thing that sometimes can't be reused, if it gets torn up when you remove the injector.
In a pinch, I've reused slightly damaged ones by adding a thin layer of Permatex Ultra Copper high temp sealant.
To remove the injectors spray some penetrating oil on the steel return line fittings coming off the side of the injectors. Best thing to use to remove the lines is a 7/16" flare wrench rather than a plain open end wrench.
The high pressure lines are just a 3/4" open end wrench.
No special tools are required to disassemble and replace the nozzles, just a 3/4" 12 point socket a 15/16" socket and a couple Allen wrenches, 3/16" and maybe 5/32" if I recall.
To tell you the truth, you could easily rebuild the injectors yourself, you just wouldn't have the ability to pop test it after replacing the nozzles, but in all honesty, 95% of the ones I've done simply needed the nozzles replaced and a 1/2 turn on the adjustment screw to bump the pop pressure back into spec.
However, the fiber washer is really the only thing that sometimes can't be reused, if it gets torn up when you remove the injector.
In a pinch, I've reused slightly damaged ones by adding a thin layer of Permatex Ultra Copper high temp sealant.
To remove the injectors spray some penetrating oil on the steel return line fittings coming off the side of the injectors. Best thing to use to remove the lines is a 7/16" flare wrench rather than a plain open end wrench.
The high pressure lines are just a 3/4" open end wrench.
No special tools are required to disassemble and replace the nozzles, just a 3/4" 12 point socket a 15/16" socket and a couple Allen wrenches, 3/16" and maybe 5/32" if I recall.
To tell you the truth, you could easily rebuild the injectors yourself, you just wouldn't have the ability to pop test it after replacing the nozzles, but in all honesty, 95% of the ones I've done simply needed the nozzles replaced and a 1/2 turn on the adjustment screw to bump the pop pressure back into spec.
Ray70
Well-known member
- 2,573
- 5,826
- 113
- Location
- West greenwich/RI
On page 160 of the -24P parts TM you can see the exploded diagram. The fiber washer is item #6 PN. 147-0043 , also comes as part of kits 147-0304 and kit 147-0307
Ray70
Well-known member
- 2,573
- 5,826
- 113
- Location
- West greenwich/RI
The gasket is available direct from Cummins for $6Ea.
Sounds like something I can do without much trouble. I found some fiber washers on ebay just in case I need them. I appreciate all your help. Is it possible to make sure the injector pump is working by disconnecting the lines and turn the engine over?
- 16,690
- 23,881
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
@noflyguy When you want to send someone a "heads up, I would like to talk to YOU", you write, just like LITD and I did, that persons handle here. The @ before it is a must. Then the posting you wrote in will go out like normal, but Ray would have gotten an EXTRA invite to the thread/post. After you have posted 16 times, then you can use a PM, (Personal Message) to contact someone, if you want a 1 on 1 conversation.
@Ray70
@Ray70
Ray70
Well-known member
- 2,573
- 5,826
- 113
- Location
- West greenwich/RI
Perhaps we should go back a little.
What is your 003 doing, or not doing that makes you think the injectors are leaking into the cylinders?
Does it run? if so, how well or how poorly is it running?
Is it hard starting, or is the valve cover getting excessively hot fairly quickly?
There are known issues with the injection pumps if it has been sitting for an extended period, ie. the plunger guide ( shear pin equivalent ) can split open or skip 90* or 180* if the plunger was gummed up, causing it to either not pump fuel or pump it at the wrong timing.
You can loosen an injector line and crank the motor. You should see a small spurt of fuel dripping from the loosened line on every other revolution.
You can also remove an injector, reposition the line, letting the injector dangle off to the side, crank the motor over and see if the injector responds.
What is your 003 doing, or not doing that makes you think the injectors are leaking into the cylinders?
Does it run? if so, how well or how poorly is it running?
Is it hard starting, or is the valve cover getting excessively hot fairly quickly?
There are known issues with the injection pumps if it has been sitting for an extended period, ie. the plunger guide ( shear pin equivalent ) can split open or skip 90* or 180* if the plunger was gummed up, causing it to either not pump fuel or pump it at the wrong timing.
You can loosen an injector line and crank the motor. You should see a small spurt of fuel dripping from the loosened line on every other revolution.
You can also remove an injector, reposition the line, letting the injector dangle off to the side, crank the motor over and see if the injector responds.
Thank you for the guidance.