Initially had a problem with the pump not working after sitting a couple of years. Opened the delivery valve, tried to move plunger(?). Started up but nothing but smoke while running. Went back in delivery valve and spacer was torn. Got a new spacer for the seat. Started up still with a lot of smoke but eventually cleared up for the most part. Was under small load 25% or less and when I added more load it ran for a short time and died. When started again nothing but smoke so bad it filled my shop and never cleared up. Every time I start it now after sitting awhile, smoke which I believe is un-burned fuel, not oil. Somewhere during all of the starting and stopping it cleared up and ran for 5-10 minutes and shut down. Oil pressure is 30-35psi, shutoff solenoid is working and shutters open after it heats up.
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Mep003a leaking injectors
- Thread starter noflyguy
- Start date
- 2,632
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- West greenwich/RI
Humm.... couple thoughts.
Often times the plunger guide will skip 90* rather than split in half and stop the plunger from turning.
When the plunger guide skips it throws the fuel injection timing way off.
This will usually still run but 3 bad things happen.
1) the engine will be very hard and slow starting when cold.
2) cylinder head temp will rise quickly ( note: unless you had the generator running under a heavy load the louvers should not be opening )
3) the engine will tend to smoke when cold due to incorrect fuel buildup in the cylinders and incomplete combustion.
If you start the engine and run about 5 minutes, put your hand on a valve cover. Does it feel uncomfortable to keep your hand there?
If so, that's a good sign that the plunger guide has skipped.
Also, if your air louvers are opening without a heavy load on the gen, that's another sure sign that she's running too hot.
Often times the plunger guide will skip 90* rather than split in half and stop the plunger from turning.
When the plunger guide skips it throws the fuel injection timing way off.
This will usually still run but 3 bad things happen.
1) the engine will be very hard and slow starting when cold.
2) cylinder head temp will rise quickly ( note: unless you had the generator running under a heavy load the louvers should not be opening )
3) the engine will tend to smoke when cold due to incorrect fuel buildup in the cylinders and incomplete combustion.
If you start the engine and run about 5 minutes, put your hand on a valve cover. Does it feel uncomfortable to keep your hand there?
If so, that's a good sign that the plunger guide has skipped.
Also, if your air louvers are opening without a heavy load on the gen, that's another sure sign that she's running too hot.
After reading your post and recalling how the unit responded over the last week or so, I believe my problem is the injection pump. From what I understand the pump is difficult to work on. I will be replacing the injector nozzles anyway, but what are my options at this point regarding the pump?
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The IP can seem intimidating the first time you do one. There are a couple simple tools I've made to make it a lot easier, but it is doable without these tools.
If you read the TM, it explains how to properly set the engine in the right position ( cyl. #1 on the compression stroke with "PC" aligned with the pointer on the flywheel ) to remove the pump,
The plunger guide is available for about $25 plus shipping.
As you may notice in my signature I rebuild both the Ambac M-50 IP and injectors for the 002 and 003, so if you're comfortable removing it you can send it to me and I'll take care of it, or if you want to try it yourself I can help talk you through it. ( Note: you need the rebuild instructions from Ambac NOT the instructions in the TM. the TM shows you how to rebuild a Bosch PSU pump, not an Ambac M-50 )
You can also send me the injectors and nozzles and I can do the injectors for you, if you'd like.
But the first step is to verify you have an Ambac pump and not a Bosch, because the Bosch does not use a replaceable plunger guide, it uses a pin through the plunger that often breaks the tip off the plunger instead of shearing the pin.
Take a look at the underside of your pump. If you see a giant flat head screw cap pointing straight down, that is a Bosch PSU.
If there is just a solid cast boss there with no screw, that is an Ambac M-50 99% of the time.
The metal tag on the side near the linkage will also tell you which pump you have.
If you read the TM, it explains how to properly set the engine in the right position ( cyl. #1 on the compression stroke with "PC" aligned with the pointer on the flywheel ) to remove the pump,
The plunger guide is available for about $25 plus shipping.
As you may notice in my signature I rebuild both the Ambac M-50 IP and injectors for the 002 and 003, so if you're comfortable removing it you can send it to me and I'll take care of it, or if you want to try it yourself I can help talk you through it. ( Note: you need the rebuild instructions from Ambac NOT the instructions in the TM. the TM shows you how to rebuild a Bosch PSU pump, not an Ambac M-50 )
You can also send me the injectors and nozzles and I can do the injectors for you, if you'd like.
But the first step is to verify you have an Ambac pump and not a Bosch, because the Bosch does not use a replaceable plunger guide, it uses a pin through the plunger that often breaks the tip off the plunger instead of shearing the pin.
Take a look at the underside of your pump. If you see a giant flat head screw cap pointing straight down, that is a Bosch PSU.
If there is just a solid cast boss there with no screw, that is an Ambac M-50 99% of the time.
The metal tag on the side near the linkage will also tell you which pump you have.
My pump is an Ambac. I am sure I can get the pump off but I'm sure there are proper steps to make it easier. Do you have to take the blower housing off to get to the fuel shut-off solenoid? I have been unable to find anything on the TM section. What is the secret? You mentioned a TM that explains how to get engine to TDC on compression stroke. How can I find it in the TM section? Thanks.
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- West greenwich/RI
The TM is located in the TM section at the top of the forum page. go through the menu and get yourself to the generator section, then find the mep-002 and 003 section. Get the 5-6115-585-34 Intermediate and Depot level maintenance manual, go to Pg. 136 and begin reading.
You need to have the pump properly timed to the engine and the first step is to get the engine properly set before removing the pump.
Once the engine is at the right spot it's pretty straight forward to remove.
The fuel shot off solenoid is under the side cover right above the IP where it probably says "Close To Run"
You need to have the pump properly timed to the engine and the first step is to get the engine properly set before removing the pump.
Once the engine is at the right spot it's pretty straight forward to remove.
The fuel shot off solenoid is under the side cover right above the IP where it probably says "Close To Run"
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@noflyguy , think of the engine timing the same way you'd deal with a distributor on a gasoline engine. Same kind of thing. You got this.
Thanks for the vote of confidence
I'll give it a shot.I removed the injectors and had them tested. Diesel shop said they were real bad so I had them replace the nozzles. I have reinstalled the injectors and wonder how I should bleed air from lines. Can I loosen input line at injector and use prime switch to bleed air out? Thanks for your help.
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- West greenwich/RI
PM sent to you...