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MEP004A Voltage Regulator/Exciter BBQ

Guyfang

Guyfang

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Yes, that's the Mechanical S9. It is repairable. If you are going to take it apart, mark on the casing where the lock wired screws are currently placed. That way you do NOT have to readjust the trip speeds. In my experience, a wire or circuit that passes voltage, but no current is a broken wire, that barely makes contact, or a loose wire that just barely makes contact. One of the repeat failures I saw with the mechanical S9 was that the wires inside the S9 cap, would sometimes wear through because of vibrations on the casing, or break off on the cannon plug pins. Also the micro switches sometimes came loose. Sometimes just loose enough not to open/close the switch, and sometimes completely fall off. The electrical S9 was a pluck and chuck. If it wasn't a broken wire on the cannon plug, then we just tossed it. There is a tread someplace here were I listed 7-8 different NSN's that all worked on the gen set. I will try, between Grand Kids invasion and Grampa's bar and grill operation today, to find it.
 
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McKeelo

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Thank you both again for the support. I read the -34 and -24 TM’s all night last night and I’ll be getting n to this sometime today, like Guy says, in between celebrating Mothers Day activities and duties. I’ll keep you posted.
 
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McKeelo

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Alright guys, here’s the update, I took the S9 switch apart even though I didn’t have any parts to replace anything with. Just took it apart for fun. Thank you to member Leedawg for posting the step by step run down. Everything looked ok, if I had a micro switch for s9-1 I would have replaced it. I probed around with the meter and in terminals a,b,and c everything meters the way I expected. The contacts are making and breaking the way they should. Every once in a while the normally closed contacts bounce around on the ohm scale quite a bit and I’m sure that’s the intermittent starter issue.
Now the exciter problem is another story. I found in the TM diagram that the k5 relay coil is terminal 13 on the A5 board and the normally open k5 contact is indeed terminal 14 as mentioned. When I jump 24dc Fromm the breaker to term. 13 I can hear the relay pick and I can meter the dc voltage on and off terminal 14 as intended. However when I start the generator terminal 13 and 14 both go high on start like they should but with S2 in the run position they both stay high +24vdc. I can’t figure out why? From the diagram it looks like the voltage should drop off with S2 in the run position, regardless of what S9-1 n/o and n/c contacts are doing. If I turn S7 on while running it does drop the voltage off A5 term. 13, and 14. I don’t see anything else that would keep the K5 relay coil voltage on with S2 in the run position. Any thoughts?
 

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McKeelo

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Location
Upland, CA
McKeelo said:
Alright guys, here’s the update, I took the S9 switch apart even though I didn’t have any parts to replace anything with. Just took it apart for fun. Thank you to member Leedawg for posting the step by step run down. Everything looked ok, if I had a micro switch for s9-1 I would have replaced it. I probed around with the meter and in terminals a,b,and c everything meters the way I expected. The contacts are making and breaking the way they should. Every once in a while the normally closed contacts bounce around on the ohm scale quite a bit and I’m sure that’s the intermittent starter issue.
Now the exciter problem is another story. I found in the TM diagram that the k5 relay coil is terminal 13 on the A5 board and the normally open k5 contact is indeed terminal 14 as mentioned. When I jump 24dc Fromm the breaker to term. 13 I can hear the relay pick and I can meter the dc voltage on and off terminal 14 as intended. However when I start the generator terminal 13 and 14 both go high on start like they should but with S2 in the run position they both stay high +24vdc. I can’t figure out why? From the diagram it looks like the voltage should drop off with S2 in the run position, regardless of what S9-1 n/o and n/c contacts are doing. If I turn S7 on while running it does drop the voltage off A5 term. 13, and 14. I don’t see anything else that would keep the K5 relay coil voltage on with S2 in the run position. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
I guess the simple thing to do here is connect the manual flash button and move on but this thing is making me crazy now😂
 
peapvp

peapvp

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McKeelo said:
Alright guys, here’s the update, I took the S9 switch apart even though I didn’t have any parts to replace anything with. Just took it apart for fun. Thank you to member Leedawg for posting the step by step run down. Everything looked ok, if I had a micro switch for s9-1 I would have replaced it. I probed around with the meter and in terminals a,b,and c everything meters the way I expected. The contacts are making and breaking the way they should. Every once in a while the normally closed contacts bounce around on the ohm scale quite a bit and I’m sure that’s the intermittent starter issue.
Now the exciter problem is another story. I found in the TM diagram that the k5 relay coil is terminal 13 on the A5 board and the normally open k5 contact is indeed terminal 14 as mentioned. When I jump 24dc Fromm the breaker to term. 13 I can hear the relay pick and I can meter the dc voltage on and off terminal 14 as intended. However when I start the generator terminal 13 and 14 both go high on start like they should but with S2 in the run position they both stay high +24vdc. I can’t figure out why? From the diagram it looks like the voltage should drop off with S2 in the run position, regardless of what S9-1 n/o and n/c contacts are doing. If I turn S7 on while running it does drop the voltage off A5 term. 13, and 14. I don’t see anything else that would keep the K5 relay coil voltage on with S2 in the run position. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
You have to check the wiring on the S2 switch
The S2 switch is in series with the S9-1 switch and Battle-short Switch S7. S9-1 is closed as long as engine rpm is above 300 or 600 rpm
If you have constant voltage on A5 TB14 then it is either because your S2 switch is bad or someone before you changed the wiring. Check and follow your DC wiring diagram plaque in your Genset door
 
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M

McKeelo

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Well I got back into this today after work and right about the time I was getting ready to throw in the towel I looked closely at the diagrams in the -12 TM along with the DC drawing on the battery compartment door as suggested. Turns out Peter was bang on again. It was one wire on the S2 switch in the wrong spot. I could see pretty clearly now how it unfolded. I believe the previous owner probably experienced the intermittent starter problem which we know is the flaky n.c. contact S9-1. He probably started at the S2 switch thinking he had a bad contact on one of the start position poles. He doubled up two wires on one pole. Just happened to be the wire going to tb101-10, which is the wire from S9. I could go on and on but I traced the entire circuit thru the A-5 box from j-2, j-5, tb101, S9,S7,S1,S2 and on and on. I believe after the guy moved that wire the S9 contact coincidentally started working and that guy must have thought he fixed something. Who knows for sure but here’s what we know, it’s working with the modernized regulator and it excites the field with the S2 switch. I can’t thank you all enough for the priceless advice and support here. Thanks again! If any future members have any questions regarding the new regulator set up I’d be happy to share my experience. I have a few small parts to gather and this machine will be ready to work.
 
M

McKeelo

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Things are working pretty good now. I notice the normally closed contact S9-1 is failing open more consistently the more I start and stop the unit. I don’t have the micro switch to replace it so m considering paralleling that contact with the momentary push button I originally installed for the manual excitation. I could intercept that contact at A5 terminal 12 and tb101-10 from the looks of it. I would hold the momentary n/i switch shut just for a second then let it go. I’ll call it an auxiliary security switch😂. I still need a couple little parts but this thing is almost ready to go into service.
 
peapvp

peapvp

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Mouser has the newer version listed for $ 4.19
they have 2,522 in stock in Texas

The original switch you got is V4T7
The Mouser has part number V4LT7

Saia-Burgess V4LT7


Download the datasheet, get your Calipers out and compare the datasheet with the V4T7 you got, including the mounting holes.

I don't have a V4T7 here at the moment to compare with Datasheet, so you will need to do some homework to make sure the new switch will fit.
 
Guyfang

Guyfang

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Speed Switch

5930-00-430-3540 Part# 70-1105-2 and SA897-3DOB Mech switch
5930-01-023-4343 Part# 70-1105-4 and 72-2203-1 Electronic (OLD)
5930-01-537-9648 New switch, Electronic (NEW)
5930-01-210-8729 New switch, Electronic (NEW)
5930-01-246-9266 New switch, Electronic (NEW)
5930-01-018-1888 Old switch. Still good
5930-01-021-9378 Old switch. Still good
5930-01-537-9648 Old switch. Still good
5930-01-246-9265 Old switch. Still good

Any and all fit.
 
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