• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Mep005 no power

peapvp

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,118
1,243
113
Location
Basehor, KS
The wiring diagram in the -12 and /or -34 I had posted in post #26 are correct and they show connection to Chassis Ground from A5-15
That part is cutoff in my picture.

It would be a good idea if people with questions about their Generators could let us know on how proficient they are correctly interpreting wiring diagrams in TM's
 

Gordy1ID

Member
34
22
8
Location
IL USA
Pete. You are right. I got voltage out of my c-pin. But my d-pin does not have continuity to ground either. I took out the solid state static Exciter from oshkosh. I put in a standard a11 static Exciter. Now my d-pin does have 24 volts when I am starting it. Still producing no voltage. Hopefully between Pete and Guy Fang /guyfang you guys can save my generator. And I believe I did state in an earlier post that I'm not great at Reading schematics. The more I read them the more I figure out. I think it's one of those things if you don't use it you lose it. I'm thinking a Legend would make it a little bit easier too for us new guys. But I am very technical and believe it or not I am an electrician. But home electricians typically don't work on circuitry / schematics.

Sooooop as of right now when I start it, I have power 24vdc to my d-pin and my c-pin on my a11 unit. So I think that's normal.
My a5-2 terminal does have power now which turns on my A5. Correct?
A 5-13 also has 24 volts when starting which means I have a good S9 switch. Correct?
And like I said I have the original a11 unit in there now. It technically have three of them. Thank you Gordy and please help!
 

peapvp

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,118
1,243
113
Location
Basehor, KS
Gordy, check that Special Relay Box has continuity to chassis ground first, then between A5-15 Terminal and the ground stud in Special Relay Box for continuity.
If you have continuity, then check continuity from A5-2 to P9D (plug which mates with/to J9 Receptacle on A11), if you have continuity then either K5 is bad or A5 has a bad solder connection / burnt trace.
I believe you showed a picture of A5 earlier and it had no burn marks.
Peter
 

peapvp

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,118
1,243
113
Location
Basehor, KS
Gordy,
One question for clarification, did you check D Pin for continuity to ground when you started the Genset meaning during excitation or when the Genset was stopped or after releasing the start run stop switch from start to run?
 

peapvp

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,118
1,243
113
Location
Basehor, KS
@Gordy1ID

Sooooop as of right now when I start it, I have power 24vdc to my d-pin and my c-pin on my a11 unit. So I think that's normal.
No

My a5-2 terminal does have power now which turns on my A5. Correct?
No

A 5-13 also has 24 volts when starting which means I have a good S9 switch. Correct?
Yes, and that turns on K5 for excitation
 

Gordy1ID

Member
34
22
8
Location
IL USA
Thank you Pete. I do have continuity between A5-15 and the ground terminal stud on the special relay box. and I also check continuity between the frame the special relay box and the static exciter. the grounds are all connected and have continuity to each other...
I do have continuity between the a5-2 and the d-pin terminal on j9
I originally checked continuity between the d-pin and ground with the Gen set not running. And I did not have continuity.

I then rechecked continuity while starting the Gen set and I did have continuity between the d-pin and Ground.

I did just check the back of my A5 card and a solder strip on the back of the card was not good. I fixed it with solder and should work. The rest of the card looks great.
One more note. When I start the generator and hold the start switch hoping for voltage to appear period the voltage slowly climbs up to about 15 or 20 volts and stops there until I release the switch.
I feel like we're getting closer LOL and I much appreciate the time you're allowing me. Thank you thank you thank you Gordy
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,789
24,133
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Yes I did make a mistake! And kept referring to it, instead of looking at the wire diagram.

I did just check the back of my A5 card and a solder strip on the back of the card was not good. I fixed it with solder and should work. The rest of the card looks great.
One more note. When I start the generator and hold the start switch hoping for voltage to appear period the voltage slowly climbs up to about 15 or 20 volts and stops there until I release the switch. This means S91 works. the 15-20 VDC is the initial excitation.
I feel like we're getting closer LOL and I much appreciate the time you're allowing me. Thank you thank you thank you Gordy
 

peapvp

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,118
1,243
113
Location
Basehor, KS
So, what to do next in this case?

The test pointed basically to a bad A11 Exciter / Voltage Regulator which needs to be bench tested and repaired

This is the connections you have to make indicated by "Test" and a "number" which you can find in the pdf, which is extracted from -34 manual.
Process and voltages are the same for either 004A or 005A A11

Note: These tests have to be performed with the A11 removed completely from Genset! This is a bench test!


A11 full.jpg
 

Attachments

Gordy1ID

Member
34
22
8
Location
IL USA
Hey guys. Just a quick update. I found out my problem with my generator. I had two bad diodes in my diode ring and the back of the generator head. I ended up replacing all six diodes with higher voltage higher amperage rated diodes. It works great! And I replaced the voltage regulator/standing Exciter with the advr- 054 voltage regulator for about 160 bucks. You just took up four wires to it. And then I bought a 10 watt 200 Ohm resistor and put that between f+ from the board and f+ from the generator windings. The gentleman I spoke with that sold the board had a great idea and how to test the generator head. He said unhook all the wires to that terminal block right in front of the a11 static Exciter and apply 12 volts directly to that field. It should start and have correct voltage. Mine only had 50 volts but the Hertz were correct. Then he told me I had a problem with my diodes in the back of the generator head. I hope this can help a lot of people since these machines can be tough to track down the culprit. A big sincere thank you to everybody, especially Pete and guy Fang. There's surely some amazing people on here. Thank you and God bless you guys! Gordy
 

Attachments

Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks