• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

MEP006 Not generating power

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
15,855
22,036
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
OK, I am confused. In your first post you said you had an MEP-006 Generator. Stonepicker1 referenced you to a TM that is for an MEP-806A. The similarities are about the same as corn flakes and moonbeams. So what generator do you have? Because you need to use the manuals and schematics.

The 120 volt outlets have a circuit breaker. CB-2 if I remember right. Is that tripping? Or is CB-1, the main control panel circuit breaker? We need more detailed info. I worked this model generator for a number of years.

Does your Hertz meter work? If not, you can check the function of the Frequency transducer, (the box that makes the freq. meter work) and find out if the transducer or meter is bad.
 

crazycanuk

New member
26
0
1
Location
Fife Lake, Michigan
Mep006

Yes, I noticed that too, but I did find the correct TM..

The main breaker did not trip, just the breaker on the 110 outlet. I have been snowed in most of winter and will be working onthe gen this weekend. Hz meter works but rheostat type of adjuster has no effect on meter. I will look at that as well this weekend and get back to you!\

I appreciate your help. Unit is operational, generating voltage as required and just a few little items to make it 100 percent. This is a beast but it runs the pole barn in 3 phase and the whole house as a sub.

OK, I am confused. In your first post you said you had an MEP-006 Generator. Stonepicker1 referenced you to a TM that is for an MEP-806A. The similarities are about the same as corn flakes and moonbeams. So what generator do you have? Because you need to use the manuals and schematics.

The 120 volt outlets have a circuit breaker. CB-2 if I remember right. Is that tripping? Or is CB-1, the main control panel circuit breaker? We need more detailed info. I worked this model generator for a number of years.

Does your Hertz meter work? If not, you can check the function of the Frequency transducer, (the box that makes the freq. meter work) and find out if the transducer or meter is bad.
 

Stonepicker1

Well-known member
2,441
77
48
Location
Coconut Creek, Florida
OK, I am confused. In your first post you said you had an MEP-006 Generator. Stonepicker1 referenced you to a TM that is for an MEP-806A. The similarities are about the same as corn flakes and moonbeams. So what generator do you have?
That was not me. see post #4.....George,

If you need a new exciter box, I have a few new ones for sale in the classifieds at a great price.....

Now look at who did post #2....:whistle:
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
15,855
22,036
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
The troubleshooting diagram for this gen set is pretty good. If only CB2 is popping, then this should be an easy problem to fix. The only function CB-2 has is to protect the 120 volt outlet. Often the two wires that go to the 120 volt outlet chafe, and wear through at the point they go through the outlet box. There is supposed to be a rubber grommet in the hole, but its sometimes missing or dry rotted into dust. A good way to find a short is to start the set, with CB-2 off, at night, with the doors open. No lights on. THEN push in CB-2. You might just see the spark.

I once looked for a short for about 2 months. The set would run well for a day, a week or maybe an hour, just fine. Then zap! It shut off. I opened the doors and set to work. Looked every place. nothing. I knew it was an AC short to ground, but could NOT find it. The set would run like a champ. I closed it up, put in in the generator building and fired it up. Great. two hours later, nothing. This went on for weeks. Then one day, while I was contemplating jumping off the roof, I saw a small burn mark, on the wire schematic on the left rear door. I almost closed the door completely. I pushed it almost shut, saw a spark, and out went the CB-1. The burn mark and damaged part of the wire was so small you need a magnifying glass to find it. I could have pulled my hair out by the roots.
 

crazycanuk

New member
26
0
1
Location
Fife Lake, Michigan
Thanks for the input. I agree, it is something small and when I find it I will laugh and post it here. I will try the in the dark idea, although I sometimes feel I am already in the dark!

Thanks for the help. I was focused on making it run at 100 percent and it is perfect now except for these few little things. Very happy with it. Long term I am going to see about picking up a second one as backup since I use this on my off grid farm ad backup to solar and wind.

Have a great weekend.

George
The troubleshooting diagram for this gen set is pretty good. If only CB2 is popping, then this should be an easy problem to fix. The only function CB-2 has is to protect the 120 volt outlet. Often the two wires that go to the 120 volt outlet chafe, and wear through at the point they go through the outlet box. There is supposed to be a rubber grommet in the hole, but its sometimes missing or dry rotted into dust. A good way to find a short is to start the set, with CB-2 off, at night, with the doors open. No lights on. THEN push in CB-2. You might just see the spark.

I once looked for a short for about 2 months. The set would run well for a day, a week or maybe an hour, just fine. Then zap! It shut off. I opened the doors and set to work. Looked every place. nothing. I knew it was an AC short to ground, but could NOT find it. The set would run like a champ. I closed it up, put in in the generator building and fired it up. Great. two hours later, nothing. This went on for weeks. Then one day, while I was contemplating jumping off the roof, I saw a small burn mark, on the wire schematic on the left rear door. I almost closed the door completely. I pushed it almost shut, saw a spark, and out went the CB-1. The burn mark and damaged part of the wire was so small you need a magnifying glass to find it. I could have pulled my hair out by the roots.
 

crazycanuk

New member
26
0
1
Location
Fife Lake, Michigan
Okay, time to update. It has certainly been a challenge. I have the solar panels, inverter and 48 volts (3 banks of 48volts ) batteries connected to Schnieder inverter. All works well but the inverter is too smart for the MEP006 Three Phase. It does not like the fact that the two hot lines are 120 out of phase and the unit requires that they be 180 degrees out of phase and in the three phase Y configuration, it does not work. I do have a newer RIGID generator designed to output clean power and that runs panels and charger fine. I know how to fix, but am going to that time to make sure I only have to do this once.

Will post pictures later. MEP006 powers pole barn and house directly as well with no issues, just the inverter unit. In talking with customer support it is a known issue and since I cannot disable that test, I see an isolation transformer in the pole barn in the future.\
 

DieselAddict

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,481
1,878
113
Location
Efland, NC
I have a Schindler inverter and can confirm they will not run on 120 degree split phase. I needed to test one and couldn't do it at work. The plant is 3-phase. Since they will parallel with the utility they must have 180 degree split phase power coming in. The only way around it is to have 3 inverters connected together running in 3-phase mode. Not practical for a home install.
 

crazycanuk

New member
26
0
1
Location
Fife Lake, Michigan
Schneider Inverters

Thanks for confirming. I have a cheaper solution than 3 inverters. I will be trying it out next weekend. I have done these phase shifting in the past with good line conditioners and since EVERYTHING else but the inverter runs fine on the three phase power, this may be an alternative.

I have a Schindler inverter and can confirm they will not run on 120 degree split phase. I needed to test one and couldn't do it at work. The plant is 3-phase. Since they will parallel with the utility they must have 180 degree split phase power coming in. The only way around it is to have 3 inverters connected together running in 3-phase mode. Not practical for a home install.
 

Frankdlt

New member
7
0
0
Location
Deland, FL
Crazycanuk
I was hoping you can enlighten me. I just bought an Mep006a the engine runs perfect I have the same oroblem it generates volt only when the start button is held up! And at that time all gauges work hrtz, voltage etcetera.
And it puts out good voltage. How did you fix the problem on yours was the voltage regulator the only thing wrong with it?

Thanks in advance for your reaponse !
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
25
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
.....
Anyone have experience wiring this beast into an off grid home? I have my ideas and having worked with an electrical contractor years ago, my thoughts I am sure are not clear.....
Glad you got the unit figured out but I'm still wondering how you'll have enough amperage draw to have a decent load on the 60 KW machine. We routinely set up MEP-004As for full-house backup and these are fairly large homes with 100% electric appliances. Even with running a few pieces of shop equipment, you may not have enough load to prevent wet stacking...hope it all works out for you though.
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
25
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Crazycanuk
I was hoping you can enlighten me. I just bought an Mep006a the engine runs perfect I have the same oroblem it generates volt only when the start button is held up! And at that time all gauges work hrtz, voltage etcetera.
And it puts out good voltage. How did you fix the problem on yours was the voltage regulator the only thing wrong with it?
Thanks in advance for your reaponse !
Frankdlt,

I believe the MEP-006A has a speed switch similar to what's found on the MEP-004A & 005A. This is a multi-purpose switch that triggers a shutdown in an overspeed condition and it release the starter solenoid after start-up but it also flashes the field after the starter switch is released. If that part of the switch is defective, you can only flash & generate power during starter engagement or if the starter switch is held in the start position. There's also a reset button under a rubber boot. If you had a recent overspeed event, you may need to reset the switch by depressing the button.

Check the TM & it should have speed switch test instructions using an ohmmeter. It's a fairly easy process requiring one canon plug removal to access the pins. This may not be your issue but the symptoms do point to this as a possible cause. Good luck.
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
15,855
22,036
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
If the speed switch, (S9) has triggered off an Overspeed event, the idiot light would be on, and the set WILL NOT restart until the reset button on the S9 is pushed in.

The S9 seems to be working right. The set starts. It kicks out the starter at the right RPM, or you would hear the starter grind on the flywheel. And the generator gets excitation. I would say you need to look at the static exciter/voltage regulator. Look at the volt reg circuit card on top of the volt reg, and see if it has some burn marks on it. Remove the 4 screws and standoffs, (don't lose the standoffs!!) from the card and look at the back side. This was a common enough problem, (we had 5-6 sets running 24/7) that we kept a complete Static Exciter assy or two on hand. All you need to do is remove the 8 retaining bolts, remove the two canon plugs, and if it has still got one, the "L" bracket that holds the wire harness away from the static exciter box. Then slip in a different one to test/repair.

There is test/repair procedures in the -34 manual, but you need some special gear to do that.
 

Frankdlt

New member
7
0
0
Location
Deland, FL
Frankdlt,

I believe the MEP-006A has a speed switch similar to what's found on the MEP-004A & 005A. This is a multi-purpose switch that triggers a shutdown in an overspeed condition and it release the starter solenoid after start-up but it also flashes the field after the starter switch is released. If that part of the switch is defective, you can only flash & generate power during starter engagement or if the starter switch is held in the start position. There's also a reset button under a rubber boot. If you had a recent overspeed event, you may need to reset the switch by depressing the button.

Check the TM & it should have speed switch test instructions using an ohmmeter. It's a fairly easy process requiring one canon plug removal to access the pins. This may not be your issue but the symptoms do point to this as a possible cause. Good luck.
Thanks 1800diesel
The over speed button hasn’t tripped the engine still starts and runs perfect. I had that problem with a 15kw and had an overspeed event already with the 15kw that a friend owns. So we learned that the hard way.
 

Frankdlt

New member
7
0
0
Location
Deland, FL
Thanks Guyfang,
I will perform that test you suggested here and repost the outcome. The research I have found is leading me to believe that the problem lies in the static exiter / Voltage regulator. According to the symptoms. I wanted to confir with others to see if i should go tha t route.

Thanks to all for the Info much obliged.
 

Stonepicker1

Well-known member
2,441
77
48
Location
Coconut Creek, Florida
I'll pm you.

I'm heading out Monday, going down to the Key's for two weeks on Military duty helping clean thing up down there.

My son sometimes go to the Deland gun show also.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks