FireFighterHill
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Hey Carl do you have part numbers for spark plugs, plug wires, and airfilter that I could pick up at NAPA?
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MEP017A runs!
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Carl_in_NH
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Plugs and plug wires you're not going to find at NAPA; they are the aircraft type - designed for a completly shielded system. I bought new plugs at Saturn - they were less than $10 each. I can dig up the number for them - but if you ask for the plugs and filter for the 2A042 the folks at Saturn will point you at the right ones.
If I recall correctly, they have two heat ranges in stock for the plugs; I went with a set that match the conventional range, since I had no runtime on the unit at that point.
If I recall correctly, they have two heat ranges in stock for the plugs; I went with a set that match the conventional range, since I had no runtime on the unit at that point.
mdlbldrmatt135
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Napa can get the plugs (most stores just don't stock them) and IIRC they were a bit cheaper than the NOS price of Saturn and others.
Carl_in_NH
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Autolite 2223 are the plugs I'm using.
FireFighterHill
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Cool, I plan to replace the plugs, wires, drain all fluids and change all filters.
oshpunit987
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Carl, have you had your MEP-017 hook up to the house yet? The reason I ask is I bought one a couple months ago and I can not find in the TM's which terminals the wires fasten to. It says use L2 and L3 for the hot wires when using 240 single phase. I would think a neutral wire would be needed because I burnt up a couple televisions once by not hooking a neutral wire up once. When the generator is grounded to the ground does that serve as the neutral wire? Also I can't find what the AMP SELECT switch does. Can you tell me what the 3 positions represent? I assume the volt adjust just fine tunes the voltage. Is that correct?
Allen
Allen
Carl_in_NH
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An unmodified 017A does not support direct connection to a house panel - it's a 240V, 2-wire system; what you need is a 240V, 3-wire system to have the neutral connection.
You need to modify the internal generator head connections to bring out a neutral connection - and then not touch the reconnection switch (or you'll cause damage). Search Steel Soldiers for more information on this modification. Smokstack also has good MEP modification references that cover this issue.
So far, I'm only using the 017A as a three phase source to run machine tools, and as a source of 110V single phase; for the normal household application, I've got an 003A which has a 240V 3-wire connection without modification.
The voltage adjustment sets the output voltage for the given mode you've selected via the reconnection switch. The three position amp meter switch selects which phase is being metered. There's a table in the TM that showes what the valid positions are for a given reconnection switch setting.
You need to modify the internal generator head connections to bring out a neutral connection - and then not touch the reconnection switch (or you'll cause damage). Search Steel Soldiers for more information on this modification. Smokstack also has good MEP modification references that cover this issue.
So far, I'm only using the 017A as a three phase source to run machine tools, and as a source of 110V single phase; for the normal household application, I've got an 003A which has a 240V 3-wire connection without modification.
The voltage adjustment sets the output voltage for the given mode you've selected via the reconnection switch. The three position amp meter switch selects which phase is being metered. There's a table in the TM that showes what the valid positions are for a given reconnection switch setting.
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Isaac-1
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Alternatively you can get a 240V to 120V transformer, these should be available fairly cheap.
Ike
Ike
FireFighterHill
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Do you have a link to the modification thread? Im hoping to use the MEP-017A to power part of my home and will need a neutral wire.
jbk
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i have used mine before on my house before in the 120/208 mode. you could do the mod. or just turn the reconnect to 120/208 3 phase and you will have your neutral . you will have 208 instead of the 240 but most 240 things will run fine on this i know my hot water heater did.
FireFighterHill
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Could I just put a grounding rod into the ground and use it as my Neutral? And also have a separate rod for the generator ground. So in all 3 grounds one for the generator itself and one for each 120volt leg? That way there is no problem with voltage imbalance between the grounds and neutral.
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PeterD
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No, but you can use it as your ground! (technically, you need two or more grounding rods, but regardless of how many they can't be used for the neutral.)
FireFighterHill
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So besides switching it 3 phase, how can I modify the genset to get a proper Neutral?
FireFighterHill
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I guess im getting conflicting info I just read on another site that on the 017a the ground and neutral are bonded?
Carl_in_NH
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I'll see if I can find a link on how to modify this - but please don't do it without the help of someone who understands electricity; you could be killed or kill someone else if you don't have a very good understanding of what you're doing. Learn from someone locally - not from Internet wisdom. I can't stress this enough.
Driving a ground rod into the Earth and connecting it to the chassis of your genset is not the same as having a 3-wire output from the generator head. It will not provide the 120V from neutral to each side of the 240V output that you need for this application. You must modify the internal connecton of the generator to obtain this neutral connection, which is effectively a center-tap on the 240V output.
Please be careful, and seek local help if electricity isn't your strong suit.
Driving a ground rod into the Earth and connecting it to the chassis of your genset is not the same as having a 3-wire output from the generator head. It will not provide the 120V from neutral to each side of the 240V output that you need for this application. You must modify the internal connecton of the generator to obtain this neutral connection, which is effectively a center-tap on the 240V output.
Please be careful, and seek local help if electricity isn't your strong suit.
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This applies to the 10KW set (images posted previously). Reconnect switch set to "120/240 1 phase".
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Isaac-1
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From looking at the data plate for a MEP-017A online it seems these have the same reconnection options as the MEP-016 series shows in their tech manuals (maybe different than the 016B/D/E based on some peoples real world testing). These are 120V 1 phase, 240V 1 phase, 120V 3 phase, and 120/208 3 phase. As I see it there are a handful of options for home backup here:
1, if you only need 120V (there are not that many 240V houshold appliances you can run on 5KW, well at least not while running anything else at the same time), in this case simply set it to 120V 1 phase and connect your transfer switch the same as you would any 120V only backup generator. One advantage of running in 120V only mode is you don't have to worry about load balancing, you have the full 5KW available everywhere. If you were to modify it to run 120/240 split phase you would have 5KW availble total, but only 2.5 KW per leg on the 2 120V legs. Trying to pull 5KW out of one side of those legs would likely burn out the generator. I suspect this is why the military did not put a 120/240 split option on the switch, makes it more idiot proof.
2, If you have to have 120/240 split phase and don't want to modify the generator, you can opt for a 120/240V transformer with split phase taps, these types of transformers are often used for offices, etc. in industrial locations with 240/480 3 phase power to supply 120/240V for lights and office equipment. The advantage of this method is you can still use the full 5 KW without load balancing, the downside is these transformers will likely cost you a couple of hundred dollars used, and are heavy.
3, Remove or modify the reconnection switch to bring out the neutral in 120/240 split phase mode, any commercial (not residential) generator tech should be able to do this in about 30 minutes (at least for the remove option). The danger here is if you leave the switch in place it will likely not function right unless you add a second switch/remove the neutral connection, then there is still the danger of someone changing one and not both switches.
Ike
1, if you only need 120V (there are not that many 240V houshold appliances you can run on 5KW, well at least not while running anything else at the same time), in this case simply set it to 120V 1 phase and connect your transfer switch the same as you would any 120V only backup generator. One advantage of running in 120V only mode is you don't have to worry about load balancing, you have the full 5KW available everywhere. If you were to modify it to run 120/240 split phase you would have 5KW availble total, but only 2.5 KW per leg on the 2 120V legs. Trying to pull 5KW out of one side of those legs would likely burn out the generator. I suspect this is why the military did not put a 120/240 split option on the switch, makes it more idiot proof.
2, If you have to have 120/240 split phase and don't want to modify the generator, you can opt for a 120/240V transformer with split phase taps, these types of transformers are often used for offices, etc. in industrial locations with 240/480 3 phase power to supply 120/240V for lights and office equipment. The advantage of this method is you can still use the full 5 KW without load balancing, the downside is these transformers will likely cost you a couple of hundred dollars used, and are heavy.
3, Remove or modify the reconnection switch to bring out the neutral in 120/240 split phase mode, any commercial (not residential) generator tech should be able to do this in about 30 minutes (at least for the remove option). The danger here is if you leave the switch in place it will likely not function right unless you add a second switch/remove the neutral connection, then there is still the danger of someone changing one and not both switches.
Ike
jbk
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why not just put it on 120/208 3 phase select 2 phases and use it. simple no hassle ive used one like this with no problem.
Isaac-1
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It depends on the need for 230V, many motors for things like well pumps, etc. are 208-230, however some are 208 or 230V only. We just ran into that with a customer at work today that bought a $500 dispenser pump system from us a couple of weeks ago, and are now upset that it has burned out. At the time they bought it they claimed to have 120/240 electrical service in reality it is 120/208 3 phase. In the case of this pump system I can somewhat understand the customer's confusion, the pump controller is 208-230V, but the pump motor itself is either 208V or 230V and are sold in combo kits, labelled either 208V or 230V.
Ike
Ike
oshpunit987
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Carl suggested checking the smokstak forum for modification references. I tried to provide a link to the smokstak site but this all that it will show
MEP 017A ???? - Generators & Motors General Discussion and this is the post:
You've got two choices to use this to deliver 120/240. Option A is to put the switch in the set in the 120/208 position. L0 is your neutral, L1, 2, and 3 are the hots - pick two. You'll only have 208 in liue of 240, but thats fine for most loads.
Option B is to put the switch in the 240 position. L2 and L3 are the hots - you'll have 240 between them. Oddly, the set is not equipped to proviude a neutral, though. But, it's available internally. Find a schematic and use S1-9 or S1-2 as your neutral. (Why they didn't make L0 the neutral is a big mystery to me.)
If the engine is in good shape, you can usually get close to 10kW out of these sets, even in single phase, for a few seconds. I would not recommend loading them over 6kW for long periods of time. If this were a run-of-the-mill home depot style genset, it'd probably be rated at 8kW or so...
Like Carl said earlier. If you aren't familiar with electricity it would be best to have someone that is do the modification to avoid getting fried.
Allen
MEP 017A ???? - Generators & Motors General Discussion and this is the post:
You've got two choices to use this to deliver 120/240. Option A is to put the switch in the set in the 120/208 position. L0 is your neutral, L1, 2, and 3 are the hots - pick two. You'll only have 208 in liue of 240, but thats fine for most loads.
Option B is to put the switch in the 240 position. L2 and L3 are the hots - you'll have 240 between them. Oddly, the set is not equipped to proviude a neutral, though. But, it's available internally. Find a schematic and use S1-9 or S1-2 as your neutral. (Why they didn't make L0 the neutral is a big mystery to me.)
If the engine is in good shape, you can usually get close to 10kW out of these sets, even in single phase, for a few seconds. I would not recommend loading them over 6kW for long periods of time. If this were a run-of-the-mill home depot style genset, it'd probably be rated at 8kW or so...
Like Carl said earlier. If you aren't familiar with electricity it would be best to have someone that is do the modification to avoid getting fried.
Allen