MEP802A 3-Wire 240 Hookup Help

[fastbrass]

I know hookups and wiring have been covered extensively, but after a couple hours of searching, I'm still lost! Maybe I need to learn how to internet better.

I recently acquired an 802a and ordered a 240v 3000/5000w space heater for load testing.

The heater has a three prong plug, like a house dryer. line/line/ground .. right? A few other items have this same setup, our 240v air compressor being one of them.

To to wire this heater for load testing, what terminal lugs do I use for the three wires in the heater? L1, L3, and Ground, or L1, L3, and N ?

I do have the bonding plate installed, which means Ground and Neutral are one-in-the-same, right? So it wouldn't matter?

Eventually this will be home-backup and I'll work with an electrician to get it done right, but for right now, I want to load-test and do maintenance.

Thanks! And of course if this particular situation has already been answered, I'm glad to be pointed in the right direction.

 

[mciikurzroot]

Well first be very sure you have the internal voltage selector switch set for 120/240 operation, and then don't change this position ever, under engine operating conditions. then hook your LINE wires to L1 and L3 and ground/neutral to LO and you said you have already bonded these two terminal together, although they are typically already combined, FINALLY ground the set to a good suitable ground. you should then be set for what you are wanting to do and accomplish, start the set stabilize it and turn on the contactor and you should be good to go. 5kw at the outset will or should clean up your exhaust system PDQ you should IMO use the 3kw setting for a bit then switch to the 5kw setting. good luck and let us know.. best mac/mc

 

[fastbrass]

Thanks, mine is not labeled L0 but rather N. The ground/neutral from the heater goes to N, and then ground the set with a grounding rod, attached to the ground lug?

 

[Zed254]

Thanks, mine is not labeled L0 but rather N. The ground/neutral from the heater goes to N, and then ground the set with a grounding rod, attached to the ground lug?

Here's a picture of my 803 connections for single phase 240 volt. I used 4 C / 6 AWG SOOW. This generator is set up for home backup so the Ground to Neutral bond is open: I'm using my house's Ground to Neutral bond. You only want one Ground to Neutral bond.

Your generator's Ground to Neutral bond should be in place until you decide to use it as your home back up because it is the primary power supply. When tied into your home's wiring the generator becomes a secondary supply. The 3 conductor heater is connected to your 2 hot conductors and the neutral. Make sure you have a proper ground rod driven into the dirt 8 or 9 feet connected to your ground terminal. Note my ground terminal has 3 wires attached: the ground rod, the trailer's fender ground stud, and the 4/6 SOOW cable.

So....your 240 volt heater will use 2 hot legs off of the generator (L1, L3) and the neutral (N). Inside the generator's connection box the neutral and ground are bonded. You have a proper driven ground rod connected to your ground terminal (GND).

Lots of good info on SS about this, so keep searching and reading.

 

[mciikurzroot]

Well dip stick here is wrong, and you are correct, it is MARKED N not LO however same effect, bond the N and G together, usually a silver plated strap is to the right side of the N terminal, then you are all set once more to proceed. my strong point is just be sure your voltage selector switch is in the 120/240 position. IF you prefer a socket to tighten the humongous split lugs and not your channel lock pliers, its socket size is 1-3/8" Id advise you not get really carried away and use minimal torque on this bolt, it turns ugly if you twist away from your index point that keep the split bolt indexed. go for it.. best mac/mc

 

[fastbrass]

Thank you for the explanation. I have a hard time wrapping my head around the fact that in my case, as a primary power source, the ground and neutral are the same. 120-only mode makes sense, I use a ground, L3, and N, like in a residential outlet. The two hot legs and only one more conductor for use in 240 are whats getting me flustered. Makes sense, though.

Here's a picture of my 803 connections for single phase 240 volt. I used 4 C / 6 AWG SOOW. This generator is set up for home backup so the Ground to Neutral bond is open: I'm using my house's Ground to Neutral bond. You only want one Ground to Neutral bond.

Your generator's Ground to Neutral bond should be in place until you decide to use it as your home back up because it is the primary power supply. When tied into your home's wiring the generator becomes a secondary supply. The 3 conductor heater is connected to your 2 hot conductors and the neutral. Make sure you have a proper ground rod driven into the dirt 8 or 9 feet connected to your ground terminal. Note my ground terminal has 3 wires attached: the ground rod, the trailer's fender ground stud, and the 4/6 SOOW cable.

So....your 240 volt heater will use 2 hot legs off of the generator (L1, L3) and the neutral (N). Inside the generator's connection box the neutral and ground are bonded. You have a proper driven ground rod connected to your ground terminal (GND).

Lots of good info on SS about this, so keep searching and reading.

 

[Guyfang]

Load terminals should be snug. No tighter. Chek them once a year. Don't just tighten them, loosen them and re-snug them. As mac wrote, over tightening will result in you buying a new terminal. The terminal is made of a copper alloy. Very easy to strip the threads.

 

[Guyfang]

Thank you for the explanation. I have a hard time wrapping my head around the fact that in my case, as a primary power source, the ground and neutral are the same. 120-only mode makes sense, I use a ground, L3, and N, like in a residential outlet. The two hot legs and only one more conductor for use in 240 are whats getting me flustered. Makes sense, though.

In the strictest sense, Ground and Neutral ARE the same.

 

[NormB]

I know hookups and wiring have been covered extensively, but after a couple hours of searching, I'm still lost! Maybe I need to learn how to internet better.

I recently acquired an 802a and ordered a 240v 3000/5000w space heater for load testing.

The heater has a three prong plug, like a house dryer. line/line/ground .. right? A few other items have this same setup, our 240v air compressor being one of them.

To to wire this heater for load testing, what terminal lugs do I use for the three wires in the heater? L1, L3, and Ground, or L1, L3, and N ?

I do have the bonding plate installed, which means Ground and Neutral are one-in-the-same, right? So it wouldn't matter?

Eventually this will be home-backup and I'll work with an electrician to get it done right, but for right now, I want to load-test and do maintenance.

Thanks! And of course if this particular situation has already been answered, I'm glad to be pointed in the right direction.

Call me old-fashioned, but every mechanic’s toolbox should have a good VOM (volt-ohm meter) in it, even a cheap free with $25 purchase from Harbor Freight pocket model will work for measuring voltages and continuity in circuits.

L1-N(ground) gives 120V more or less, as does L3 to ground, but out of phase.

But seriously, get a VOM and play with it. A good fluke volt/ammeter with a clamp is even more useful for measuring actual current draw and can be had for around $100 or so.

Norm

 

[maniatopoulosg]

In the strictest sense, Ground and Neutral ARE the same.

Yes and no


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Guyfang]

Yes. Here in Germany for instance, there are several different Distrabution systems. One type gets you all three phases and the N into the house fuse box. You drive a ground rod into the earth to provide ground to your fuse box. This the preferred method. Another system brings all three phases and N into the house. Then you use a jumper from the N, to the Ground, (here it's called PE) terminal in your fuse box. This is a so called PEN system. You split the PE from the Neutral. It's a system that kinda leaves you in the lurch, if the N cable from the power folks is damaged. You lose N and Ground, but still thane three hots in your house.

 

[DieselAddict]

Yes and no


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

To expand on that a little bit, both wiresshould be at the same electrical potential but the ground should only carry fault current (meaning something has gone very wrong).

 

[Guyfang]

To expand on that a little bit, both wiresshould be at the same electrical potential but the ground should only carry fault current (meaning something has gone very wrong).

True, and here, not always true. The "Classic Nullung" is still allowed. That is the distribution system that only has the phases and N at the house. In the plugs, there are wires that go from the N terminal, to the Ground terminal. It was allowed pre and post WW2 here in Germany, and several other country's. The EU law has a grandfather clause. Any insulation of this system, is allowed, UNTIL the structure is electrically upgraded. THEN it must be brought up to standards. In the States, I would whole hardheartedly agree with you. The first time I saw such an installation, I about fell over.