MEP802A not starting . Notice anything major in video

Leonardo82nd

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So I took the top off and replaced the return an other fuel Lines going to the pumps . replaced the rubber boot on the fuel stop solenoid . brand new batteries I tested on an 803 . But this unit isn’t firing up . Below is a video . Do you’ll see anything wrong?


 

Light in the Dark

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Even though the cube fuel pump is making noise under prime, have you disconnected the rigid fuel line (to the separator) to confirm its pumping fuel? Have you let the system prime for a few minutes after the fuel line replacement? Did you pull the line off the return T at the tank to confirm fuel is being pumped there?

Can you manually articulate the FSS to the 'open' position and do you feel tension while doing so (from the metering pumps)? Does it return properly?
 

Leonardo82nd

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Even though the cube fuel pump is making noise under prime, have you disconnected the rigid fuel line (to the separator) to confirm its pumping fuel? Have you let the system prime for a few minutes after the fuel line replacement? Did you pull the line off the return T at the tank to confirm fuel is being pumped there?

Can you manually articulate the FSS to the 'open' position and do you feel tension while doing so (from the metering pumps)? Does it return properly?
okay I’m going to run a few checks right now . Thank you both. great minds think alike haha
 

Leonardo82nd

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okay I’m going to run a few checks right now . Thank you both. great minds think alike haha
I’m assuming these are the updated versions? I actually have one on hand , I’ll check out LITD tests first .
these Facet pumps - actually I noticed are in the 831a‘s , I wonder if they can be fitted into the 802-803’s .
 

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Light in the Dark

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See that! LITD and I were thinking the same thing and typing at the exact same time... 2 minds say fuel pump!
Those cubes are nothing but a pain in the arse. The Airtex units are better (but not perfect either). When moving to that style though, there are some fittings and a short length of rigid tube needed to make the jump down to the hard line.
 

Light in the Dark

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I’m assuming these are the updated versions? I actually have one on hand , I’ll check out LITD tests first .
You would need to find the NSN for the pump to see the various iterations over the years for approved suppliers and their part numbers. I have had NOS cube pumps be nonfunctional at installation. Ease test to just take the bottom feed off whats there, and either use a short run of hose or an empty gallon of milk and turn prime on and catch what comes out (if anything).
 

Light in the Dark

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And one other thing.... did you manually change the hertz setting in the video, or did it move by itself? I see the cable move in the video.
 

Leonardo82nd

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And one other thing.... did you manually change the hertz setting in the video, or did it move by itself? I see the cable move in the video.
I manually moved the throttle , I thought maybe that would make a difference . I had primed It for several minutes , added a little oil to perfectly full , and changed out the batteries , I was just trying anything at that point . I see this version on one of my other 802s.
 

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Light in the Dark

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I manually moved the throttle , I thought maybe that would make a difference . I had primed It for several minutes , added a little oil to perfectly full , and changed out the batteries , I was just trying anything at that point . I see this version on one of my other 802s.
That is an odd orientation, but yes thats the most up to date pump. It normally has the following setup (stolen from a previous fuel pump thread):




But whatever works.
 

Ray70

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On that machine to replace the cube pump your best bet is an Airtex E8135, not the E1074.
The E8135 will reuse the existing fittings off the cube pump and drop right in place, just have to splice the wires.
The E1074 has an odd right angle outlet with a different 1/8" pipe thread size than your 1/4" NPT cube pump and requires a short ( OEM ) 3" extension tube.
Never seen a 1074 upside down like your picture.... definitely not a factory install!
 

Leonardo82nd

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On that machine to replace the cube pump your best bet is an Airtex E8135, not the E1074.
The E8135 will reuse the existing fittings off the cube pump and drop right in place, just have to splice the wires.
The E1074 has an odd right angle outlet with a different 1/8" pipe thread size than your 1/4" NPT cube pump and requires a short ( OEM ) 3" extension tube.
Never seen a 1074 upside down like your picture.... definitely not a factory install!
Ok, thank you very much for that information . I see them on eBay. The price does not seem to bad . The upside down 1074 - was installed by “Oregon RSMS” data plate says -
 

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Leonardo82nd

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I se
Even though the cube fuel pump is making noise under prime, have you disconnected the rigid fuel line (to the separator) to confirm its pumping fuel? Have you let the system prime for a few minutes after the fuel line replacement? Did you pull the line off the return T at the tank to confirm fuel is being pumped there?

Can you manually articulate the FSS to the 'open' position and do you feel tension while doing so (from the metering pumps)? Does it return properly?
I Disconnected the rigid line and i see that fuel is passing thru this side . But that doesn’t mean that the fuel pump is working 100% does it ?
What exactly is the FSS.
 

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Ray70

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So last time it was the Aux. pump you heard running I assume...
Next thing I would do is verify fuel is getting to the inlet of the metering pumps.
If so, then check for small spurts of fuel coming out the top of the metering pumps while cranking.
Also note: That machine needs a few PSI of fuel pressure for the metering pumps to operate. if your cube is moving fuel but not building any pressure the gen won't run.
 

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When all else fails, RTB.

Fuel transfer Inspection.

1. Shut down generator set.
2. Open left side engine access door and disconnect negative battery cable.
3. Inspect fuel transfer pump (6, FIGURE 2-22) for leaks, cracks, missing hardware, and loose connections.
4. Connect negative battery cable and dose left side engine access door.

Testing.
1. Shut down generator set.
2.Open left side engine access door and disconnect fuel transfer pump outlet line (2, FIGURE 2-22) at secondary fuel filter.
3. Place line end in measuring container.
4. Move generator set MASTER SWITCH to PRIME & RUN position for one minute and return MASTER SWITCH to OFF position.
5. Measuring container should have collected at least 25 oz (0.845 liter) of fuel.
6.Replace fuel transfer pump if delivery amount is other than above.
7. Connect fuel line (9) to secondary fuel filter.
8. Close access door
 
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