MEP802A not starting . Notice anything major in video

[Leonardo82nd]

If the above shows no 24v at CB1 or S1, check CR-1 diode, rear left corner inside control cube 2nd up from the bottom soldered onto the burden resistor panel.
If that diode is open you will have no 24V DC anywhere within the control panel.

okay , I followed that path . Tested all along the above mentioned , the dead crank switch connections were very loose. after tightening everything. it had sufficient power. But still won’t turn on .
I’m going to begin pulling the metering pumps out to unstick them - hopefully that will take care of it . Thank you , I will update when completed.

 

[Guyfang]

Leonardo,

I would advise you to start a thread for the MEP-831. Troubleshooting two gen sets in one thread leads to confusion.

 

[Ray70]

Yes, please start a new discussion about you 831.
Regarding the 802, we should clarify exactly what you are seeing now.
The term "turn on" is too vague for us to follow exactly what your current status is.
I believe you are saying you now have 24V at the control panel and the panel is functioning?
Is the main fuel pump running, the fuel solenoid pulling in when turning the main switch to the crank position and does the starter crank but it won't start?
Also, if it is cranking are you seeing any smoke from the exhaust?

 

[Leonardo82nd]

Yes, please start a new discussion about you 831.
Regarding the 802, we should clarify exactly what you are seeing now.
The term "turn on" is too vague for us to follow exactly what your current status is.
I believe you are saying you now have 24V at the control panel and the panel is functioning?
Is the main fuel pump running, the fuel solenoid pulling in when turning the main switch to the crank position and does the starter crank but it won't start?
Also, if it is cranking are you seeing any smoke from the exhaust?

ok no problem ,I will start a new thread sorry about that . Below is a more detailed update on the correct thread . Thank you .

I do have 24V at the control panel , everything is functioning at the panel , After tightening up the dead crank switch .
The solenoid is pulling in when turning the main switch but the unit will not start.
I was not sure what to do , so I pulled off one of the small clamped hoses going to the metering pumps. to check if diesel was making it to that point, and yes diesel is coming out (photo attached)
I did see a little smoke at first , but after the second and third attempt it was very minimal (I will follow up with a video) .

 

[Guyfang]

and yes diesel is coming out (photo attached)

Coming out of what? The hose, or the IP?

 

[kloppk]

That hose is all cracked and needs to be replaced. Likely the others too.

 

[Leonardo82nd]

That hose is all cracked and needs to be replaced. Likely the others too.

I do have 24V at the control panel. The panel is functioning properly now . thank you, those troubleshooting tips fixed that issue .
while attempting to start the unit , there were no visible fuel line leaks . The starter cranks but the gen would still not start.

The return line , and (4) smaller hoses going to the pumps were all Intact . the fuel solenoid was pulling in properly.

Im not sure if what i did next was the correct thing to check, but I had planned on replacing all the fuel lines regardless.

So I decided to remove (crack off) one of the (4) smaller hoses to see if diesel was making to those hoses while turning S1 to prime .
diesel was in fact coming out of the end of the hose while turning S1 to prime.

I’ll move forward with replacing the 4 small hoses. then should I check the pumps to see if they’re stuck - Would that be the suggested next step?
thank you .

 

[Guyfang]

The return line should always have fuel coming out of them. They are after all, returning all the fuel that the IP doesn't send to the injector. Hook up the return line, and crack all the lines from the IP to the Injector. That way you see if the fuel is being pumped from the IP to the Injector.

 

[Leonardo82nd]

The return line should always have fuel coming out of them. They are after all, returning all the fuel that the IP doesn't send to the injector. Hook up the return line, and crack all the lines from the IP to the Injector. That way you see if the fuel is being pumped from the IP to the Injector.

haha okay , so I cracked the wrong side / or wrong part of the fuel line . Still learning . Thank you .

 

[Ray70]

Replace the rubber fuel hoses feeding the metering pumps first.
Then either crack open the upper nut where the hard line comes out of the top of your metering pumps or crack the line where it attaches to the injector up top, if you have the top cover off.
Put the main switch in the prime/run position and let it run a minute or 2.
crank the engine and look for small spurts of fuel coming from the loosened injector lines.
If you don't get any fuel dripping out it is probably time to move on to looking to see if the metering pumps and fuel rack are frozen / stuck.

 

[Leonardo82nd]

Fuel goes into the IP's thru the rubber hoses. You can remove one and see if fuel squirts out when the fuel pump is running.
If so then reattach the hose and then loosen the hard line on top of the IP. Turn the set over with S1 and see if fuel weeps out when attempting to start it.
If you got fuel at the rubber hose but not from the hard line then you may have a stuck fuel rack. If it's stuck in the STOP position it won't allow the IP's to pump any fuel.
You can check that by removing the plug on the governor body. Shown below.

Once removed you can spot the end of the fuel rack to the right in the opening.
See if that moves out of sight when you manually rotate the lever on the side of the governor that the fuel solenoid moves when cranking.
If it doesn't you may want to give it a nudge while holding the solenoid in the run position to see if it's stuck and can get it to move.
View attachment 885211

The longer (39 second video) was taken immediately after removing the plug on the governor body. The fuel rack was stuck in position while manually rotating the lever.

The shorter (16 second video) was taken after I nudged the fuel rack. The gen did start - then shut off after a few seconds. Before every attempt to start the gen, the fuel rack needed to manually be nudged thru the plug, and would shut off after a few seconds.

I've removed the metering pump closest to the plug on the governor body. Attached are photos. The pump does not appear to be "compressed". I can manually move the lever, although it's a bit stiff.

What do you guys advise for correction? Thank you.

(both are now removed) neither is compressed .

 

[Ray70]

The metering pump you show is not stuck compressed, it looks fine.
Make sure the levers ( pins) that fit into the rack are free to move on both pumps.
you might also want to remove both pumps ( it isn't a big deal if you remove both together ) and make sure the rack is moving freely itself.
As for the machine shutting off, it may be a fuel problem or it may be related to the issue with your rack sticking.
Probably should get the fuel rack sorted out first.

 

[Leonardo82nd]

The metering pump you show is not stuck compressed, it looks fine.
Make sure the levers ( pins) that fit into the rack are free to move on both pumps.
you might also want to remove both pumps ( it isn't a big deal if you remove both together ) and make sure the rack is moving freely itself.
As for the machine shutting off, it may be a fuel problem or it may be related to the issue with your rack sticking.
Probably should get the fuel rack sorted out first.

Okay got it thank you.
Both pumps are now removed - neither was “compressed“ . The rack is moving freely, when I manually rotate the lever - the end of the rack follows suit.

Can someone help identify the levers “pins“ I have not inspected that part yet.

 

[kloppk]

The tab they are pressed into should rotate about 180 degrees

 

[Leonardo82nd]

View attachment 887436The tab they are pressed into should rotate about 180 degrees

I can manually move the lever 180 degrees - although it's a bit stiff.
The Rack moves freely with the pumps out .
Only thing I can think of is, going back to verify the pumps were installed correctly - as @ callmecolt stated in his reference video .

 

[Light in the Dark]

Those pins should rotate relatively freely. Perhaps you should give the metering pumps a couple days in a can of carb cleaner to see if they loosen up before reinstallation.

 

[Light in the Dark]

The spring that pushes the metering pump pins 'open' isn't as strong as you think... especially if this set has been getting harder to start before you acquired it, it can fatigue the return rate of the spring.

If the fuel rack moves freely without them installed, that's good. The fuel shutoff solenoid, when it retracts, just lets the spring inside the fuel rack assembly do what its supposed to, and forces it closed when the power is removed when the solenoid closes.

If those pumps don't freely spin, get them to a state where they do.

 

[Leonardo82nd]

The spring that pushes the metering pump pins 'open' isn't as strong as you think... especially if this set has been getting harder to start before you acquired it, it can fatigue the return rate of the spring.

If the fuel rack moves freely without them installed, that's good. The fuel shutoff solenoid, when it retracts, just lets the spring inside the fuel rack assembly do what its supposed to, and forces it closed when the power is removed when the solenoid closes.

If those pumps don't freely spin, get them to a state where they do.

Okay got it , thank you. I will let them sit in some carb cleaner. These definitely require some strength to rotate.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Okay got it , thank you. I will let them sit in some carb cleaner. These definitely require some strength to rotate.

You probably have identified the root cause of the no-run condition. We shall see.

 

[Ray70]

I agree... sounds like the metering pumps are borderline at best. Some times the pins will be loose enough to move just by tilting the pump side to side.
If you can't flick the pin side to side with 1 finger there is a problem.
I have had good luck soaking them in the gallon size can of Gunk carb cleaner. Let it sit a day or 2 then with then submerged pump the plunger several times to work the cleaner into the pump, then work the lever a few times and soak a couple more days. rinse and repeat....