MEP803 Newbie, need advice

[dav5]

Bmxenbrett I guess we had the same thought at exactly the same time.

 

[jamawieb]

I take the top radiator hose off at the thermostat and take it loose at the radiator, then rotate the hose so I can put a funnel in it. Then refill until it comes out from the thermostat housing. The thermostat's have a small relief valve that will let a little coolant pass with the thermostat closed. This is the only way I have found to refill from empty so you don't get air pockets. If you refill at the radiator cap, I always had air bubbles that would make the unit over heat. After I started refilling through the top radiator hose, I never had the problem again.

 

[Daybreak]

It is a lot easier if you have a means to tilt the generator away from the rad filler tube. I have a tractor with forks but you could use a farm jack on the skid. My 803A also had a bent overflow nipple that interfered with turning the rad cap. I used a piece of steel rod in the nipple and bent it down where it should have been.

Howdy,
The same here.
Forks, and lift a unit up and tilt probably 40 degrees. Makes it real easy filling since the air escapes to the top as the coolant is going in.

 

[THENICK]

Newbie help

Thank you for all the advice. I was able to fill the radiator through the top hose connection.
NOW I HAVE NEW PROBLEM. My fuel line seems to be leaking. A LOT. I could not get it started. When I realized that it was leaking, I stopped. I tried my second generator. It started to leak as well. In the same spot. Where the braided line connects to the steel line. I have not tried a third generator. I have yet to start any of my generators.
I don't know how to attach a picture here.

 

[Suprman]

Replace the whole line its your fuel return. If thats leaking chances are your injector lines from the rail are dry rotted also. Good idea to do those as well. The hood piece of metal just pulls off and you can use regular small hose clamps.

 

[THENICK]

Replace the whole line its your fuel return. If thats leaking chances are your injector lines from the rail are dry rotted also. Good idea to do those as well. The hood piece of metal just pulls off and you can use regular small hose clamps.

THANK YOU. I was so worried that I had to buy or try to find a special part for my new generators. And I haven't even heard them run yet. Now I will replace the fuel lines.

 

[jamawieb]

If its the rubber lines that go to the injector pumps, use a small cutoff wheel and cut the metal clamp off, that connects the rubber hose to the metal line. Then use hose clamps to hold the rubber hose to the metal. Go ahead and replace all of them if one is leaking because the rest will follow shortly. Also keep an eye on the return line because those are notorious for leaking.

 

[THENICK]

If its the rubber lines that go to the injector pumps, use a small cutoff wheel and cut the metal clamp off, that connects the rubber hose to the metal line. Then use hose clamps to hold the rubber hose to the metal. Go ahead and replace all of them if one is leaking because the rest will follow shortly. Also keep an eye on the return line because those are notorious for leaking.

Yes. You are correct. It is the rubber hose (on the left of the steel tubing) connecting to the metal injector pumps steel tube. Do I cut off all of the metal tubing and rebuild it out of rubber hose? The short rubber hoses that run from the steel line to the engine, don't seem to be leaking. But it sounds like they will soon?

 

[csheath]

Yes. You are correct. It is the rubber hose (on the left of the steel tubing) connecting to the metal injector pumps steel tube. Do I cut off all of the metal tubing and rebuild it out of rubber hose? The short rubber hoses that run from the steel line to the engine, don't seem to be leaking. But it sounds like they will soon?

No, just cut a shallow slit in the crimped collers and peel the metal away.

I used 1/8" and 1/4" Gates brand fuel hose from O'Reilly Auto Parts on mine. They have some nice fuel injection clamps for the injector hose but spring clamps should work fine.

 

[Zed254]

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...improvements&p=1841320&highlight=#post1841320

AOR shows you how in the above link. The rest of the thread discusses fuel hose options.

 

[THENICK]

So I spent all afternoon, going around town, looking for this 3.50 mm braided fuel line. All the auto parts stores. All the small engine repair shops. I found myself at the foreign motorcycle shop. The BMW store. He was the only place in town that had the braided fuel line made in Germany. He didn't have the 3.5 size in stock. Only the 5.0mm. So he will "call me in a bit". When he called, he told me that he can order it out of California. After picking myself up off the floor, I agreed to pay the 160 dollars. (Because I needed it). I gave him my cc. At the last minute, he mentions WURTH FUEL LINES. I told him to hold off on the order. And that I needed to check on something.
YEP. YOU GUESSED IT. I found it on line for 12 bucks. It's also a VW product.
SMILES ALL AROUND

 

[Light in the Dark]

Share the link for others to benefit in the future.

 

[Guyfang]

So I spent all afternoon, going around town, looking for this 3.50 mm braided fuel line. All the auto parts stores. All the small engine repair shops. I found myself at the foreign motorcycle shop. The BMW store. He was the only place in town that had the braided fuel line made in Germany. He didn't have the 3.5 size in stock. Only the 5.0mm. So he will "call me in a bit". When he called, he told me that he can order it out of California. After picking myself up off the floor, I agreed to pay the 160 dollars. (Because I needed it). I gave him my cc. At the last minute, he mentions WURTH FUEL LINES. I told him to hold off on the order. And that I needed to check on something.
YEP. YOU GUESSED IT. I found it on line for 12 bucks. It's also a VW product.
SMILES ALL AROUND

Next time, before jumping off the cliff, (160 dollars?) try doing just what you did here. Write a post to a thread already started, or even start a thread. It's WAY cheaper.

 

[THENICK]

Everyone here seems nice. Very knowledgeable and experienced help. I am VERY new at this. I guess I just got excited and wanted it to be perfect.
SMILES

 

[Guyfang]

You done good! Mission accomplished, and the news spread to the troops. What I meant was to take a breath before jumping into something like 160 dollar hoses. Daybreak maintains a list of all kinds of stuff, that folks have found a replacement part that is as good or better than the army used, and can be found someplace other than the back side of the moon.

Perfect, or as close to it as you can get, is always good.

 

[csheath]

So I spent all afternoon, going around town, looking for this 3.50 mm braided fuel line. All they auto parts stores. All the small engine repair shops. I found myself at the foreign motorcycle shop. The BMW store. He was the only place in town that had the braided fuel line made in Germany. He didn't have the 3.5 size in stock. Only the 5.0mm. So he will "call me in a bit". When he called, he told me that he can order it out of California. After picking myself up off the floor, I agreed to pay the 160 dollars. (Because I needed it). I gave him my cc. At the last minute, he mentions WURTH FUEL LINES. I told him to hold off on the order. And that I needed to check on something.
YEP. YOU GUESSED IT. I found it on line for 12 bucks. It's also a VW product.
SMILES ALL AROUND

Not to spoil your efforts but at the end of the day you will have the same rotten crap that came on it and doesn't hold up well.

Don't be afraid to use non stock stuff. I want my unit to be as reliable as possible so originality means nothing to me.

 

[THENICK]

So, is there a better product out there?????

 

[Daybreak]

So, is there a better product out there?????

Howdy,
To each there own.
I used the braided original style line. With keeping it filled with diesel #2 and not using JP8, it will last longer than the military fuel type use.

The MEP-8xx series of generator all use diesel fuel return lines. After sometimes sitting with no fuel, or heat cold, no-use etc... they start to fail. The main issue is the lines start weeping fuel.

NSN 4720-01-483-6467 part N20353.5 HOSE,NONMETALLIC

Name	Value
CROSS-SECTIONAL SHAPE STYLE	ROUND
INSIDE DIAMETER	3.5 MILLIMETERS NOMINAL
LAYER COMPOSITION AND LOCATION	OUTER LAYER BRAIDED COTTON CORD
INSIDE SURFACE CONDITION	SMOOTH
SPECIAL FEATURES	COMES IN A 20 METER ROLL (66 FT.)
MATERIAL	RUBBER BUTADIENE-ACRYLONITRILE CLASS NBR TUBE
MEDIA FOR WHICH DESIGNED	FUEL/OIL, HYDROCARBON SINGLE RESPONSE AND WATER SINGLE RESPONSE AND AIR SINGLE RESPONSE

The fuel return line is 3.5mm ID. As you can see by the above posting the details of this line. Some have used other sizes and hose clamps. But purchasing the correct 3.5mm ID fuel hose makes it stay tight on all the hose barbs without issue.

It is a 3.5mm fuel hose made by CRP CONTITECH. This is a roll which is 5 meters long which will give you enough to replace all your lines and have some in reserve. You can search for below

CRP N203535-5 CONTITECH Diesel Hose


Or
Gates Safety Stripe II - 1/8 Inch Hose Part 27000 which is 3.2mm ID

 

[csheath]

So, is there a better product out there?????

The Gates fuel hose I suggested earlier is rated for use as a diesel fuel return line. In fact it is claimed to be submersible and for use all the way to E85 gas. Time will tell but I would hazard to guess it is far superior to the cloth covered original fuel hose.

No, just cut a shallow slit in the crimped collers and peel the metal away.

I used 1/8" and 1/4" Gates brand fuel hose from O'Reilly Auto Parts on mine. They have some nice fuel injection clamps for the injector hose but spring clamps should work fine.

 

[TrailLifeBill]

While you're familiarizing yourself with your new genset, check to see if it has had the MOV and fuse modifications performed. Both have been discussed in the forums extensively. I bought a reset 803a generator, and they had not been done on mine yet. They are both cheap insurance against future more costly grief.