Ok thanks for the switch wiring, found one that was wrong.... So now I have panel light and it turns over from the run start stop switch. But don't start, going to retrace and double check all wires and screws tomorrow. And thanks for all the help .
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Mep831 help
- Thread starter Wh6czu
- Start date
Ok well I got it to go pop pop pop.. I think i need a head gasket
Does the fuel injector pull out, I tried a pry bar and it didn't move.
No I dont get mad, I just roll with it, I'm learning new to diesels. I did retrace everything followed test procedures and seems like all checks out, now moving to motor, ....OK, don't get mad. I am not laughing at you. I have probably repeated 10,000 times here, ALWAYS check that the wires hooked to ANYTHING you are checking, are on right. Its one of the reasons I tell folks to never mark wires when they remove them. If someone else made a mistake, you just repeat it. Take the wires off, look at the wire diagram when you put them back on.Simple, and then you KNOW, its right.
I have had this happen to me many times. By the time you get to banging your head on the gen set, because something is not working, its too late. You are not going to check anything other then if there is enough gasoline on hand to set the whole thing on fire.
Does the fuel injector pull out, I tried a pry bar and it didn't move.
dav5
Active member
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The head torque on both my 831A's was way below specs. Oil seepage stopped when properly tightened.
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Did you get it running? May just need to bleed the air out. These generators are very finicky but once they run well, they're great.
Not sure if it will help any, but I did a bunch of videos on fixing mine up completely.
Not sure if it will help any, but I did a bunch of videos on fixing mine up completely.
No I've have no luck getting it running
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- 1,475
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- Wilson County, Texas
How long did you let it crank?
It takes a while to prime these if the injection lines & pump are empty.
Take the fitting off at the injector. Turn the switch to on. Let the electric pump run for 1 minuet. Hold the decompression lever down & crank the starter for 30 seconds. Look for a good jet of fuel coming from the disconnected line at the injector. If it's bubbly/foamy, it still needs more priming.
If you haven't already done this, give it a try. Let us know if it changes anything.
Ok it seem like it trying, I think these are out of adjustment. Do you what they should be off hand?
Attachments
I'm getting squirts of fuel doesn't look like enough to me
She tried to start but then the starter kicks out
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- Pepperell, Massachusetts
You have a few problems from what I can see in your pictures.
The first BIG one is the black knob on the front of the mechanical governor plate is in the STOP position.
You need to loosen the knob and move it as far as it will toward the START position and then tighten the knob.
The two adjusters for the mechanical governor have had their factory sealing wire removed and someone has messed with their settings making things worse.
The governor spring is in the wrong hole.
Correct Governor Spring Hole. The top of the spring should be hooked into the second hole of the 4 in a row on the arm and NOT the hole at the far end of the arm.
The top adjustment bolt should be set so the top of the bolt head is ~ 2 cm from the bracket it screws into.
The bottom adjuster should be set so that the top of the adjuster is ~2.3 cm from where it screws into.
Here is the "black knob" set to the correct position.
Setting the length of the long vertical rod is done once you have the set running and you adjust it to achieve a 5/16" gap between the actuator arms "target" and the magnet. This adjustment is covered in the -13 TM.
The first BIG one is the black knob on the front of the mechanical governor plate is in the STOP position.
You need to loosen the knob and move it as far as it will toward the START position and then tighten the knob.
The two adjusters for the mechanical governor have had their factory sealing wire removed and someone has messed with their settings making things worse.
The governor spring is in the wrong hole.
Correct Governor Spring Hole. The top of the spring should be hooked into the second hole of the 4 in a row on the arm and NOT the hole at the far end of the arm.
The top adjustment bolt should be set so the top of the bolt head is ~ 2 cm from the bracket it screws into.
The bottom adjuster should be set so that the top of the adjuster is ~2.3 cm from where it screws into.
Here is the "black knob" set to the correct position.
Setting the length of the long vertical rod is done once you have the set running and you adjust it to achieve a 5/16" gap between the actuator arms "target" and the magnet. This adjustment is covered in the -13 TM.
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- 1,026
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- Wilson County, Texas
kloppk pointed it out before I could.
I have made some videos just on adjusting everything you're pointing to because I had all the same issues. kloppk helped me through them as well.
I will lastly add that I ended up needing to tighten the black thumb screw down ever so slightly off the full on run position.
I have made some videos just on adjusting everything you're pointing to because I had all the same issues. kloppk helped me through them as well.
I will lastly add that I ended up needing to tighten the black thumb screw down ever so slightly off the full on run position.
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- Pepperell, Massachusetts
Here is a link to download GAC's adjustment procedure. It has a step or two that the -13 TM doesn't include.
It covers the tweek that may be needed to the black knob position that CallMeColt mentioned above.
Link---> Adjustment Procedure
It covers the tweek that may be needed to the black knob position that CallMeColt mentioned above.
Link---> Adjustment Procedure
Ok thanks , and yes someone really did a number on it, I'll do all setting in the morning and post back.
Ok
Ok got the Governor Spring in the right hole, but I found that um missing the other spring, ... where would I get a replacement?
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- 3,526
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- Location
- Pepperell, Massachusetts
Looks like the PN for the lower spring is Yanmar 114250-66200
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This kind of "problem" has traditionally been refereed to in the Army, since 1972 at least, as "Knob Dicked". The proper way to use it is so. "This F*****g generator has been Knob Dicked out of correct adjustment! It is one of the toughest "problems to find and correct. And even harder when you are not familiar with the gen set. Now if I was you, I would hit the books some more, AND maybe post a few more pictures so people smarter then you and I can look at them. Because if someone Knob Dicked the throttle linkage up, there is a real good chance that this is only the start of your "problems". Please do not get upset at me. If I had a dollar for every time I chased a "self made problem" by a soldier or customer, Bill Gates would be working for me.
Thanks
Ok spring is on order, will post back when it come in, and FYI I've hit the books but there are a lot of things that's not in the books , and believe me the last thing I want to do is ask for help, but where I just dont know I have to, I thought that was the whole point of having a web site like this so people that need help cant get it ..if I'm wrong just let me know.
MrShawn305
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Pushing people toward the TM's is common here because a whole hell of alot of people come around asking questions that are easily answered in the TM's. Sometimes out of laziness, sometimes just because they had no idea the TM's existed. Not saying you're one of those people, just that it happens so often that it's kind of the default reply lol. But that is absolutely what this forum is for. I have had many issues on here that were more a matter of "what do you think this noise is", which is where this really comes in handy. And we share ideas for improvements to our units, like the "ultimate well nut repair" that one of the members on here came up with. Ideas for load testing our units, aux fuel tank and hookup solutions, electrical panels and outlets as well as many other topics that just aren't found in the TM's because it wasn't something the military did with them.