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MEP831a PMA diagnosis

ke8fyf

New member
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Location
Ocqueoc, MI
Hello all,

I recently picked up an as-is MEP831a from a collector I know (he normally deals with larger sets). There was a hard to crank condition which was originally thought to be an engine issue but upon further inspection I saw the rotor of the PMA was hitting the stator. I made a puller and removed the rotor and reseated the stator and carefully put the rotor back in. I did not shim it up, I just checked runout with a dial indicator and it was within .003" to which I figured would be good enough.

I started the engine and as it burned off all the smudge (it had been sitting outside), I started to get a burning electrics smell and saw a wisp of smoke out of the top of the PMA. I shut the engine down and the top of the PMA was hot to the touch.

Pulled it apart and saw this particularly black looking section but it doesn't seem as if any of the kapton tape had burned. (see photo). This segment was oriented at the top when installed and this is the side against the engine.
20170831_164218.jpg

I went through the procedure in the TM as far as checking the windings. Per page 4-51 I did the first test of measuring resistance between similar number windings. Just to confirm this would be A1 to B1, B1-C1, A1-C1, etc (checking pairs in the same horizontal row). I should mention I am using a Harbor Freight DMM for the time being as its all I have. In connector P15 I was consistently getting of 1.9 ohms. In P16 they usually around 1.6ohm The TM lists that they should be below 1.2 The DMM reads 1.3 just touching the leads together, is it safe to chalk up this discrepancy to poor measuring equipment? The second part of checking between windings (pairs vertically) passes on P15 but on P16 the meter transitions from open to just displaying 0. I am on the 2m scale when doing this. I have not moved past this point as the next tests are with the system running and I don't want to risk totally frying this thing.

Just trying to figure out if my problem was friction heating it up or do I have a short somewhere? I have not checked circularity of the stator or the rotor. This did rub together at one point but the witnesses on each lead me to believe it wasn't for any extended amount of time. The magnets are still QUITE strong. I plan on reinstalling but shimming .010" between the two. Pretty sure I have some austenitic shim stock somewhere.
 

DieselAddict

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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You need to use a "megger" on that to know for sure. My gut is you have a short and your stator is done. :(
 

ke8fyf

New member
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Location
Ocqueoc, MI
I'm going to see if I can borrow some better equipment. I would just go buy a proper fluke or something but I get a sinking feeling I'm going to be buying a new stator. Hopefully I can track one down that isn't the $1400 one currently on eBay.

Got the unit reassembled. Tomorrow I'm going to fire it and see if it lets out the magic smoke.
 

DieselAddict

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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You don't need a standard VOM. You need to borrow a megger. Its a high voltage tester. I don't recommend running it to test it.

I hope its repairable. The stators are not easy or cheap to find. I have one with a bad stator and have considered having it rewound at a local motor shop. I'd never get my money out of it though.
 

ke8fyf

New member
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0
1
Location
Ocqueoc, MI
Well if anything I just learned a good bit about insulation testing, thanks dieseladdict. The guy I got the generator from might have one to be honest. I'll probably be contacting him anyways to see if he has an extra stator or maybe even just buy another unit outright. These things are addicting.
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
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The only way to test the windings is with the Meg ohm meter. You could simply take the Main generator to a shop and let them check it.
 

Dewie38

Active member
152
189
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Location
Milford Ct
From the picture it looks to me like that stator has been rubbing quite a bit and I wouldn't trust it regardless if it meggers ok.
It may have weakened the windings a bit.
By the way, after you do install a new PMA and set the gap, one of the best ways to tell if the gen is rubbing is to hold down the decomp. lever and pull the rope start and see if there is resistance, it should spin freely.
Also the price of the stator on fleabay is more than what the entire PMA is worth.
 

ke8fyf

New member
4
0
1
Location
Ocqueoc, MI
The mechanical resistance is exactly why this unit got torn down initially. I shimmed it up and got it reinstalled and it turns freely now.

My question now is if the PMA shorted out could this have damaged the inverter? I've found a place that allegedly rebuilds the stator as well as offers used/reman/new ones but before I go that route I want to make sure the rest of the thing isn't shot.

Thanks again to everyone for the help, pretty neat community here.
 
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