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metal bluing on truck parts

hummer4x4guy

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Bluing is the process of a controlled rust on guns which gives them the black color. Does anyone know if this is the same process used on some of the outside parts of the trucks like the brushguard and rear bumpers which are black in my case. I am just looking at different ways to clean up those parts in the future. I don't believe they are carc'ed. But would consider going the carc route but just wanted to pick everyones brain if you have an opinion on this.
Thanks
 

patracy

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Bluing will rust when exposed to the elements long term. Powdercoating would be a better choice.
 

Recovry4x4

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I would think parkerized would be a better candidate. Bluing seems to have a little shine to it. I'm not certain whether or not the HMMWV had parked stuff or not.
 

hummer4x4guy

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I did find Parker rust-proof of Cleveland and they do military coatings. I've emailed them to get more information. They have the tank size to do large parts. I'll post what they email me back when I get it.
 

KansasBobcat

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Agree that bluing is not a good choice because of rust. The U. S. military went to Parkerizing at the end of WWI. I've seen the finish you have on quick release pins, etc. I assumed it was anodizing . Paint over Parkerizing is durable and used on many foreign made weapons: FNFAL, later LeeEnfields, etc. Bet it would be expensive. Bob
 

Ragnarok

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I would agree with patracy on the powder coat, or for a part you know will get beat up and scratched maybe go the cheap but repetitive route of DIY, by that I mean rust-oleum makes an aerosol can of what they call "bed coating spray" I guess it's not technically a bed liner, but I have seen them in store for maybe 7 bucks a can and at least it's a name that is known for protection against the elements.
 

hummer4x4guy

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Lansing, Mi
Well here was their reply back to me: We are a production-quantity oriented company. Processing parts like you
described below would be charged a substantial minimum lot charge in excess
of $1000.00 depending on how much handling is involved, but without seeing a
drawing with dimensions listed I cannot calculate definite pricing.
 

Retiredwarhorses

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You will hard pressed to find a part on a tactical vehicle that is not CARC.
The Luverne brush guard was not...but they did not last long in the system. The tubular guard is now standard.
either power coat or apply the CARC system...it is not just paint and is considered a coating, not a paint.
The idea is that it can be easily decontaminated in an NBC environment...IE, the agent does not soak in.
 

hummer4x4guy

Member
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Location
Lansing, Mi
Yeah I suppose CARC will be the route I'll be going.
Is there a preferred method to prep steel before applying carc since the pieces all had some surface rust on them.
 

steve6x6x6

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Where can I buy this kit? For smaller parts that would be nice.
It is called parkerizing kits. You can goolge it or find the kits on ebay. Glass bead your parts, place the chem. in distilled water at 190 degress for a bout 15 minutes and your done. Same thing as the .50 cal to 1911 side arm.
 

Jeepsinker

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Brownells has benchtop and full size parkerizing kits. They range from around $300 to around $2400. I bought the $2400 kit, but I'm a gunsmith so I needed the full setup.
 

86humv

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Outside black parts...epoxy prime, and then Carc.
Or flat black powder coating.
 
Last edited:

nattieleather

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If you have the money go with powder coating. Here is a more or less simplified version of what they do. The part is sandblasted to remove the old finished then wiped clean with cleaning solvents. Then the powder is applied. They electrically charge the powder and the part + for one and - for the other thus the powder is attracted to the part causing it to stick. Then the part is baked in a oven that is around 400 degrees F or 200 C. This melts the powder into a hard baked on coating that's very tough.
 
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