metal brake line question

[Jim145]

Hi Guys,
I have a question about the metal brake line comming off the rear of the master cyl it developed a pinhole and I lost brakes.

is this any special line or can I make one of these?

and does anyone have any secret tips to take one of these lines off without stripping the nut?

I tried using a line wrench but it is very tight(I dont want to break it off if I dont have to)

I am soaking it with wd40 right now, can I use heat on this to try to free it up?

and one more question dot 5 brake fluid can I use anything eles? the napa store only had one small bottle on the shelf but lots of dot 3+4

any help would be great thanks.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Jim, you need to stick with DOT5 or completely flush the system and use DOT3. Nothing mixes with DOT5. DOT5 is available through several surplus sources for around $30 a gallon. As far as the metal line, its standard. You need to double flare it if you're making a custom length. I would break the line off flush with the line nut and use a 6 point socket on it. I would be very hesitant to put heat anywhere near this brake stuff. Once the metal line is out of the way it should be very straight forward and somewhat easy. WD 40 has it's place but its not much of a penetrant so it probably won't help your cause. Lots of folks praise Kroil as one of the best penetrants and its good but I've found a better one. It's at the GM parts counter and is called GM heatvalve lubricant. The techs at the dealership call it the spray from God and I certainly see why!
HTH Kenny

 

[MVtrucker]

Jim,
I fully agree with Kenny on everything he wrote. I learned the socket trick some time ago and it was a good lesson.

 

[Elwenil]

Kenny, Mopar sells the same stuff under the name, Heat Control Valve Solvent. Nice stuff, you can actually watch it foam up and turn black as it eats rust and corrosion. Originally it was made to loosen the valve in the exhaust manifolds of older carburated engines, but it works wonders on just about anything. The old Mopar part number I think, is 4318039, but it may have changed since I was a Parts Manager at the dealer.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Elwenil, by golly thats the same product i'll bet. The GM stuff turns black just as you said. I've not had to buy a can yet, a buddy at the dealership gets it for me. Do you remember how much this stuff costs a can?
Kenny

 

[Elwenil]

The Mopar stuff was priced at around $5 a can, I think. It's priced by the individual dealer, since Mopar lets the dealers do their own markup, but I think the list price was in the $5-6 range, but that was back in '95-96. Honestly, I'd give more than that for it, since it does such a good job. I just wish it came in larger cans. I have yet to find anything available from the regular parts stores that can match it. I always hoped I could find another source for it, but no luck. The MSDS on it was pretty nasty if I remember. Not quite as nasty as the Combustion Chamber Conditioner we had though, that stuff would clear out the garage real quick...

 

[Jim145]

Ok got the line off, made a new one bleed the brakes, then broke the stupid line that goes on top of the master cyl. lid
i'll replace that later this week, the six point socket trick worked real well and the brakes actually feel much better and stops real good, better than before..
thanks again for the help guys.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Pleasure here Jim!