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I was hitting it alright ! and heating it with the torch before it finally came off. It was on there but good ! After looking at the gear once it was off I could see small gouge marks on the shaft and gear. I believe who ever originally installed it didn't use any assembly lube and just rammed it on with a big press.
Those make good "bogie bushings" removers ! When I was working at IHC in the 1970's we had a 100 ton press. I had to replace the suspension (bogie) walking beam bushings in a 80,000 Ibs dump truck. It took the full 100 tons plus the torch to get that one bushing out ! When it finally came free the whole press jumped in the air almost 1 foot ! Talk about changing your under-wear !
That wear pattern is called "spalling" and it is normal if you just replaced the countershaft gear or that is a new third gear with an old counter shaft gear. Sometimes changing the gear oil to a lighter weight can also cause it. If it is from new gears just leave it and let it "run in" to the other gear set. If it's from oil then go to a heavier weight gear oil. As far as the reverse countershaft gear, yes that is a bit of wear on those teeth ! But it is only on those two teeth correct ? If so then I would just run it until it breaks. It's only for reverse anyway and who needs reverse !
When changing gear oil just pay attention to any metal in the oil. If it is getting to be to much then change out the transmission.
Have you tried Waterloo specialties? I got 2nd and main from him (m35 Tom) very reasonably priced.
I've heard of talcum powder being used as well; back in the depression era cars. I hope that my transmission isn't that bad yet.
The straight 50w from the fifties is not the same 50w of today. We had quite a discussion on this last year. Or was it early this year ? Either way that is why most all transmission shops went to 80-90w gear oils in the 1960's up to the present era.I've heard of talcum powder being used as well; back in the depression era cars. I hope that my transmission isn't that bad yet.
I put in 40wt engine oil based on the recommendations of the board and the shifting got a little notchy as the transmission warmed up. Straight 50wt is what Spicer recommended in the 1950s truck manuals and what is used today for many of their transmissions. I figured that I'd try the "correct" lube and see how it worked. Compared to 40wt, the 50wt is an improvement.
Hey David, I found some from Gringletaub (Gerhard). He's bring them up to the rally and then mailing them off to me.
I read part of that thread but it didn't really agree with what I saw here in the truck shops. Based on discussions in two different truck shops, it seems that all they have ever used is 50wt. However, it was your comment that the viscosity should be 50wt "minimum" in that thread that led me to look again at the oil after experiencing "notchy" shifting. I considered synthetic 50wt but he didn't think it necessary and I was already in it for $100 with a 5 gallon pail.
Out here on the West coast the shops mainly used 80-90w . I can see your shops out there using the 50w as your much colder in winter then we ever are. When the gears get going they produce some serious heat and that really thins out the oil. Since we are on average 50 degrees F. (year round average) that lower viscosity oil doesn't do well. It basically turns to the consistency of water when it's hot ! In fact I had to go to 140w in my old 1979 Scout's transfer-case as the 80-90w would make it howl when it got hot. After going to the 140w it settled right down just fine.
Thank you sir. I was going to clean out pieces and fill the transmission back up with this and run it. But I may take the time and fix it right.
Ha no sawdust please I've got plenty. Cutting wood for winter in 100F. No central heat or air. I bought a truck from a guy that had put sawdust in it to quiet the transmission down so no one would hear the clanking. No thank you.
