Misaligned brake switch

[11DG]

I'm having bit of an issue adjusting my dual brake switch. I'm wondering if anyone else has come across this.

I'm sure as everyone is aware, the two switches are a normally open brake light switch and a normally closed torque converter unlock switch. I have two switches a AM General and a chinese knock off, but both are out of alignment. The switch throw is different between the two halves. So with the normal slide adjustment I have two options.

One, move the switch out which allows the brake lights to function normally. How ever the misalignment of the switches keeps the circuit for the torque converter open. So the trucks TCM thinks I'm on the brakes, so the torque converter never locks.

Two, move the switches in so the torque converter will operate correctly, but the brake lights won't come on until I put the pedal to the floor.

Right now I have one of the switches installed. I slotted the mounting holes that hold the switch arms together. Allowing me to realign the switch points. Now they are almost in alignment. Allowing the brake lights to come on just after the torque converter unlock.

Has anyone come across this issue, do I just by coincidence have two mis-manufactured switches? Is there something that I'm missing, I'm working on the assumption that these two switches should, well, switch simultaneously.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Thunderbirds]

I'm having bit of an issue adjusting my dual brake switch. I'm wondering if anyone else has come across this.

I'm sure as everyone is aware, the two switches are a normally open brake light switch and a normally closed torque converter unlock switch. I have two switches a AM General and a chinese knock off, but both are out of alignment. The switch throw is different between the two halves. So with the normal slide adjustment I have two options.

One, move the switch out which allows the brake lights to function normally. How ever the misalignment of the switches keeps the circuit for the torque converter open. So the trucks TCM thinks I'm on the brakes, so the torque converter never locks.

Two, move the switches in so the torque converter will operate correctly, but the brake lights won't come on until I put the pedal to the floor.

Right now I have one of the switches installed. I slotted the mounting holes that hold the switch arms together. Allowing me to realign the switch points. Now they are almost in alignment. Allowing the brake lights to come on just after the torque converter unlock.

Has anyone come across this issue, do I just by coincidence have two mis-manufactured switches? Is there something that I'm missing, I'm working on the assumption that these two switches should, well, switch simultaneously.

Thanks for the help.

My M1123 has the same issue. I opted for the brake switch not being as sensitive as it should be. Others have commented on the brake pedal travel being very short so that the lights only illuminate when half the brake pressure is on.

I think RTW and Mogman have contemplated a modification to the brake pedal rod... Or something like that.

I', not happy with the situation, but it is a known issue.

 

[11DG]

It takes basically no pressure to stop my 1097. The first time I drove it, I locked up the tires. I suppose Iv just gotten used to driving my Ford for so long. As it sits I can't have both lights and torque converter unlock with a stock switch.

I'm toying with an idea. To use the old A1 single switch, with a lead off power out to a 24V relay to unlock the torque converter. That way I'll only have to adjust a single switch, which is super easy. The downside is when that switch wares out, the torque converter won't know to let go. Perhaps a manual override switch on the dash in case of a switch failure. As it sits now, I'm not a fan of having to modify every switch I replace. Then having to go through the process of tuning that switch.

 

[Thunderbirds]

It takes basically no pressure to stop my 1097. The first time I drove it, I locked up the tires. I suppose Iv just gotten used to driving my Ford for so long. As it sits I can't have both lights and torque converter unlock with a stock switch.

I'm toying with an idea. To use the old A1 single switch, with a lead off power out to a 24V relay to unlock the torque converter. That way I'll only have to adjust a single switch, which is super easy. The downside is when that switch wares out, the torque converter won't know to let go. Perhaps a manual override switch on the dash in case of a switch failure. As it sits now, I'm not a fan of having to modify every switch I replace. Then having to go through the process of tuning that switch.

Same here on the super touchy brakes.

I wonder if one could make a bent or offset connection rod between the two switches so on activates sooner/later.

 

[11DG]

Take the nut, screw and spacer off the switch arms. Use a file, die grinder, what ever you have available and slot the holes counter opposed to each other. That way the the arms can sit out of alignment of each other and use the hardware to clamp it down. That way, with some fine adjustment at the bench, the switches will switch simultaneously. Also I dumped that garbage "z" bar linkage. I put in a set of #10x32 offset rod ends. It takes all the slop out. That was a place that I kept losing my adjustment at. I'd get it fine tuned then a few miles down the road I'd need to mess with it.

 

[Mogman]

A manual switch will not work unless you switch it every time you come to a stop, and then again when you take off or you will set a DTC code in the TCM.
I have heard that some put a small 24V relay connected to the brake light switch and the normally closed contacts wired to the TCM leads, that way only the brake light switch adjustment counts and you can use the cheaper 3 speed switch.

 

[Mogman]

I have not heard RWH chime in on this issue, I would think he has the most experience in this matter.

 

[spankybear]

I threaded my z bar with a 10-24 die and used nylocks lock nuts. This took out all play and made it "easier" to adjust. Of coarse you have to stand on your head while doing the splits and patting your head to get to the adjustments.

 

[11DG]

The manual override would be normally closed in line with the lead to the TCM. The relay will do the switching. In the event of a switch failure, leading to a hung up torque converter. I flip the switch, causing the TCM to see an open circuit, forcing it to let go of lock up. As far as the TCM knows, I'm just riding the brakes and it won't lock up.

 

[Awol]

I had a switch that was the same way. I could never get it adjusted to the point where the tails would come on with a light touch of the brake pedal, it was either off until you smashed the brake pedal, or they were always on. The TCC lockup somehow wasn't affected tho.

I bought a nos switch, and everything works perfectly now.

 

[Thunderbirds]

The manual override would be normally closed in line with the lead to the TCM. The relay will do the switching. In the event of a switch failure, leading to a hung up torque converter. I flip the switch, causing the TCM to see an open circuit, forcing it to let go of lock up. As far as the TCM knows, I'm just riding the brakes and it won't lock up.

That will most likely throw a code 37 TCC Brake Switch Stuck On, won't it?

 

[11DG]

It most likely will, truthfully the truck probably already has a code 37 in storage. The override switch is just there for when the switch fails, which it will. So I can just flip it to tell the TCM the "brakes are on" in which case the truck will just drive around with no lock up like it has for almost a year now. But I would suspect your right, the TCM would probably have something to say about it. I probably should just go ahead and pull the codes, just to see if there is anything in there.