Missing items on new truck

[m139h2otruck]

Now that I have had the weekend to look over the truck, a number of small items/issues have come to light:
1) The entire hot start flame heater system is missing, with the intake just plugged off and the cab switches left in the panel, but disconnected. Any suggestions? or should we just install an ether injector like the new trucks.
2) The truck had a hot water cab heater, but all parts including the inside duct work and heater support was removed. Are the kits for the M35/M54 trucks the same (one on e-bay now) or is there something different. Any other alternate systems that are easy to mount or cheap to buy?
3) There looks like a cover was installed around/over the muffler inside the wheel well. Is this so, or is the muffler just out there subject to road wash?
4) Is there a spin on oil filter adapter available for the 855 Cummins? Can filter is very messy to change and I always have distrusted the seal on the can.

 

[DDoyle]

Almost all the hot water cab heaters are alike on big trucks - the differences are the thermostats and the grille covers.

 

[TacticalTruck]

The cover over the muffler is your heater core mount. The biggest difference in the M809 series heater kits is the core is on the passinger side which requires a diverter box backards from the deuce and a half.
Jeff

 

[ZiggyO]

Hello,

I actually have one of the reverse diverter boxes for the heater kit in new condition if anyone is interested (was in a new heater kit i got to install for a FD and had me going for a while as to why it was setup backwards)........ If anyone is interested, let me know....

Ziggy

 

[m139h2otruck]

Oil filter

Answered my own question on the oil filter adapter. Looked at a WIX master catalog today, and they do offer an adapter that bolts directly in place of the can filter to use a 51970 spin on filter. The # is 24067 and it requires a different bolt (not included) based on the application. Quoted price of $71-72 for adapter and $14.12 for the filter. The standard can filter (51954) is $11.20. Next oil change I may consider a change-out. Did get a coolant filter/additive filter to add to the big Cummins. Based on experience, wet sleeve engines need an additional additive package for the coolant. Most new over the road trucks come with these, and where this truck may sit for longer periods, I think it could save a sleeve. Total for a filter base, filter and 2 qt additive was $88-90. Expect to drain and refill system this weekend and install filter into heater ports.

 

[Gamagoat1]

Ziggy,
I'd be real interested in the diverter. I need one for the M816. Let me know what you need for it.
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!
Mike

 

[DDoyle]

I've used the additive Nalcool 3000 with some success, as has the military.

Regards,
David

 

[Gamagoat1]

Your right Dave,
I'm the engineer for a big building in Denver and we use Nalco products here. The Railroad uses Nalcool3000 in the big diesels with real good results.

 

[m139h2otruck]

Changed out the coolant on the new truck on Saturday. Long Process!!

Made a plate to mount the coolant filter on that in turn mounts on two hole bosses on the side of the 855 block right below the exhaust manifold just behind the oil cooler. While installing this, had to remove a number of the existing hoses from the overflow tank and found that they were either plugged or rotten. The vent lines to the top of the water manifold and the radiator were both completely full of rust and sludge. The fittings and bleeder valves were also plugged and inoperable. The drained coolant looked like burnt coffee 4 days old and smelled worse! Based on this, and the fact that the engine never got warm after idling for 20 minutes, I also got a new 195 degree thermostat and 3 cans of flush. Long story short, filled, flushed, refilled and re-flushed again with the engine running and the radiator drain and back block drains open. Lots of sludge and rust came out!! Back flushed through the thermostat opening and oil cooler bypass connection.

Refilled with 50/50 mix and WIXCool. Engine now comes right up to temperature in 10-15 minutes and runs much cleaner!!

While this is a nonturbo motor, I think (again, here goes my opinion again!) that the cooling and overheating issues with these trucks are directly related to how clean the system is and the thermostat status, especially the turbo multi's. If the thermostats are not right, are hanging open or are too low temperature, the motor will never run right and will never maintain correct operating temperature. Most all modern (1950's on) motors were designed to run and operate at a constant temperature of 180-195 degrees. I have read somewhere that when they don't, engine wear goes up dramatically as the operating temperature drops. Anyone ever run a test on the multi's that seem to drop engine temperature on a long down grade? I would seem to think that at an outside temperature of 30-45 degrees that it would take an extremely long grade to cause a running motor to drop much coolant temperature if the cooling system was completely up to spec.

Just more random ramblings.