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Modern tire size to replace 900x16

rickf

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I am looking for modern tire sizing to replace the 900x16. I am picking up a M37 tomorrow and all it needs to drive is new tires. Comes complete with four standard rims and four combat rims with hummer tires on them. Yes, I know, wrong size. That is why I am looking for new tires. And yes, I am aware that if I go with radials I will need the appropriate radial rated tubes. Also, if anyone has a recommendation for a particular tire let me know. Not really interested in NDT's, Too dangerous on wet pavement.
 

Day Tripper

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Rockford, Ohio
I am looking for modern tire sizing to replace the 900x16. I am picking up a M37 tomorrow and all it needs to drive is new tires. Comes complete with four standard rims and four combat rims with hummer tires on them. Yes, I know, wrong size. That is why I am looking for new tires. And yes, I am aware that if I go with radials I will need the appropriate radial rated tubes. Also, if anyone has a recommendation for a particular tire let me know. Not really interested in NDT's, Too dangerous on wet pavement.
Michelin 9x16, 11x16, 325/85r16. Try CSM army tires (philip@csmarmytires.com) or Colony tire (rkight@colonytire.com). Prices vary from used to new.
 

rickf

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Have the hummer / hmmwv rims been reworked?

Red flags as those are 16.5 rims not 16!!!!!!!!
The rims that I have are stock M37 16 inch. I am aware that the hummer tires are 16.5 tapered bead. They are not staying on there and I am not replacing them. I have looked for reworked 16.5 rims for the M37 but have not found any so I am staying with stock 16" tires.
 

rickf

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Well, I have picked up the 37 and loaded 5 extra, old tires and rims into the back of my truck. Those combat rims are HEAVY!!!!!!!!! I would guess one rim and tire is approaching 200 lbs.. What did I get myself into?! Does anyone have a visual breakdown of one of those rims? They are different from anything I have ever worked on. I need to get all these old tires off and assess the rims, it appears the combat rims were blasted and painted before and from what I can see they are in excellent condition. I don't see any rust pitting anywhere. The four stock rims look pretty good also, the seller told me he got them in very good condition and then had them blasted cleaned and checked. I have got to see ifI can find the dates on two of those old tires, they are so old I think they would hold up the vehicle without air. One is a civvie retread of an old military NDC tire and the other is a completely bald NDC. I will post some pics when I get it home tomorrow.
 

G744

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The only reason to run combat rims on an M37 is you like the look.

A dumb holdover from WW2 3/4 tons.

They are just as much work to dismount as the lockring type, and a LOT heavier.

Harder to balance, too.

Stick with the LTS wheels and learn to do them yourself, the tools are about the same $ as what someone (if you can find them) will charge to do it.
 

rickf

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Oh I know how to do them, I am getting too old to do it though!!! Swinging the duckbill accurately just ain't in me no more. Actually I am not even sure where my duckbill is? I owned a shop back when split rims and and ring locks, While not real common, were still in use.
 

John Mc

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There are bead breaker tools which run off anair wrench or a hand wrench/ratchet. I used one owned by a friend when changing the tires on 5 rims (some of which had probably not been changed in a decade or two). It worked very well, and takes a lot of the grunt work out of dismounting tires. You can find them on Amazon. This is one example of the style I used. I can't vouch for a particular brand, sinc eI donpt know what brand he had.
 

rickf

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I am not sure how they would work on this style of rim. They do work very well on normal rims and especially on ATV rims.
 

John Mc

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I am not sure how they would work on this style of rim. They do work very well on normal rims and especially on ATV rims.
Having used it on my stock M37 lock ring rims, I can tell you that they work very well. This was my first time changing this style of rim, and I had no problems with the 5 of them. (it did help that I had someone experienced in changing them giving me pointers).
 

G744

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A tip for those changing their own military tires, the part that makes getting the wheel out of the tire difficult isn't obvious.

Over time, the flap will bond to the wheel, so you need to put your spoon in between it and the wheel. Tap it down in there, rare back on it a bit and you'll hear it pull the flap free. Move it 4-5 inches along and do that around the wheel.

Sure makes it a lot easier...
 

John Mc

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A tip for those changing their own military tires, the part that makes getting the wheel out of the tire difficult isn't obvious.

Over time, the flap will bond to the wheel, so you need to put your spoon in between it and the wheel. Tap it down in there, rare back on it a bit and you'll hear it pull the flap free. Move it 4-5 inches along and do that around the wheel.

Sure makes it a lot easier...
Thanks for the tip. I did not run in to that issue when I was changing my tires but good to know if I run in to it next time. (if Im still around when "next time" comes on this truck.)

I've only done 5 of these at this point. The toughest part on my tire changes was the spare, which probably had not been off the rim in many years. In my case, it was the bead of that spare tire that stuck to the rim. The flaps came loose easily.
 

juanprado

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I looked at that post and website and it was very interesting. Only thing my feeble brain could not wrap around was the hmmwv rim half studs and nuts are not beveled seats so if that is now the point of attachment on the new adapter plate how are they "true and centered" Maybe at these speeds our mv's can do; it does not matter.

I think the m101/116 and m101/116a1 trailer folks would be all over these adapters so they can get away from tubes and the lock ring rims. Might need to think about upgrading my trailer fleet :cool:
 

rickf

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A 315/75 calls for a 8-11 inch rim, a two inch difference is substantial. I am not saying it is out of the question, just want to know if others are using this size. Pricing is attractive for this size and selection is good. That will offset the 45.00 each price of the tubes!
 

Rdinatal

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Minimum recommendation is 7.5". I've seen them on the 6.5" and they are not pinched.
Being on a smaller rim is safer than too wide a rim where you can get bead separation (unless inflating high PSI). High PSI has its own issues.

Granted that you will need to run the PSI as to not roll the tread in the contact area. Just not too low where unnecessary heat is generated and you get into bead separation issues. But then I don't see these trucks speeding down the road.

You can contact an expert at MSeriesRebuild. Charles puts those on the standard 16" BUDD rims.
 

rickf

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Normally a wide tire on a skinny rim will be an issue due to the bead seating surface being pulled out and not sitting flat on the rim. But the fact that these tires will have tubes makes that a moot point. Very high pressure is still an issue but there is no need to run 60 lbs. of air on this truck 35-40 would be fine. I will be looking into these tires as I get closer to getting it on the road. I have the tires from my other 37 that are fine but I do not like running NDT's on the road.
 

Rdinatal

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but I do not like running NDT's on the road.
So true. I'm researching this same topic which is how I came up with the 315. I also found another tire but you loose even more OD (~2"):
255/85R16 @ 33.1" (6.5" min rim recommended)
vs
315/75R16 @ 34.6" (7.5" min rim recommended)
 
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