Mods to do...

[hwcurtice]

Okay, so while I want to keep the carrying capacity the same, I want to make my m101a2 tow easier and not be too open to 'Frack! I have to leave it to go get parts, a tire fixed, something else' when using it.

So, I do want to keep the brake system, but how do I lower the trailer to level it to the same as my truck? I already plan on getting a hitch plate that will raise the hitch more.

How does one change the hubs out to use a more standard wheel? or use wheels that match my truck? That way I would always have a spare. Would I have to ditch the brake system that is on the trailer then?

The lights/electrical are being changed out. Going LED and new wiring all the way through.
***NOT AN AD*** Anyone have a need for 24V trailer wiring with lights? I'll give you my address. Come and get it! ***NOT AN AD***

Any other thoughts to make the trailer more user friendly? Other than finding some way to make it about 500 lbs lighter? But still being able to haul the same?

Now for the weight adding: How does get a spare tire carrier like the ones some of the trailers have?

Weight removal: Taking the tongue support off and using a standard trailer support with a wheel?

 

[m16ty]

My 101a2 tows fine as is behind my 3/4 ton Dodge. I don't understand why you say you want to go to a "more standard" wheel. They are 8 lug GM wheels, pretty standard.

I think you can lower the ride height by moving the springs under the axle.

There's not much you can do to loose weight that won't effect hauling cap. Removing the toungue support will gain you about 10lb.

IMO, You'd be better off buying a civilain trailer than you would trying to convert a military trailer to a civilain one.

 

[hwcurtice]

Most of the civi trailers would be junk by the time I get done with them.

I didn't know they were 8 lug GM Wheels. Sheesh, I can find those on the side of the road with blown out tires all the time!

If I do move the axle on top of the springs, will I have any modifications to do to the brakes? Including the parking brakes?

Oh, and I do plan on making it a tilt bed. Gonna take the bolts out and use pins.

 

[papakb]

hwcurtice,

The common mount for a spare on the 101s is to find an old tire mount from an M37 and bolt it to the front of the bed. You'll need to space out the bottom about an inch but you can do that with a piece of wood. You don't mention what you're towing vehicle is in your posting so it's hard to help with height information.

The 101s are one of the finest trailers on the road and will tow nicely behind almost anything large enough to pull them. You did mention that it was an A2 so the eight lug wheels off of anything bolt on directly.

If your planning on moving the axle just make sure you have good clearance between the tire and the fenders under load.

Kurt

 

[hwcurtice]

I have a 2006 Dakota 4x4 with a 4.7L V8.

I did notice, when pulling it home, how nice it towed. Real smooth and didn't dance around like some trailers do.

I have heard that the surge brake works best when level, so when its connected to the truck, the butt of the trailer is in the air...

I know I have to do some work to the truck too, in order to keep the truck level as well, air-bagging the rear, and finding a way to increase the power and possibly modifying the transmission some for towing better.

But this trailer is just what I need for projects and such and should last me years to come as opposed to not as long as civi trailers would.

 

[goodguyzy]

i have 16 wheels and (205 85 16r) tires (could be wrong on that number) the trailer isn't perfectly level with my pickup but plan on getting a raised hitch to compensate about 4".

 

[taildragger03]

this is what I did to my A1. I swap out the original 5-lug wheels and went with a custom axle since I couldn't get an A2 axle for my trailer. I have 8-lugs now on everything and can use the spare from my truck if need be. As for the height, the best thing to do is drop the leaf springs under the axle. But make sure that you have clearance between the fenders and the tires. As for making it a tilt bed, be aware of the brake line from the frame to the axle. The first tilt could pull that out real quick! There are several write ups on each of these subjects. One thing is for sure, these trailers will last many years.

 

[derf]

See my thread on converting axle and lowering M101.
I lightened and lowered to better pull behind my little Tacoma.
If you move the axle over the springs you may have to delete the shocks or get different shocks. If you do change axles, a 65 or 66 inch face to face width seems to work well.

Also, keep in mind the rating is very conservative and accounts for towing off road.
The 8 lug wheels are easy to find. Many people take off perfectly good Aluminum factory wheels to put on custom wheels.

My plan for a spare is to eventually get a crank up mechanism from a truck and wind the spare wheel up under the back of the trailer, behind the axle.

 

[papakb]

derf,

I saw some trailers done with a flat barstock spare mount under the rear of the bed and considered doing that but was concerned that the weight of the spare would offset the balance and make the trailer tow "lunette light" when unloaded. It also makes it hard to keep the rear landing leg in place.

The bed front spare mount doesn't have the same problem and makes use of otherwise dead space on the front of the trailer.

Thinking about the level of the trailer. My original 101A1 had a lunette with an offset to it that was reversible to allow towing level changes . My A2s and A3 all have a straight lunette. Search around for an early lunette and install that to help even things up.

Kurt

 

[derf]

Right.
I have an early lunette that is flipped. My axle is over the springs and I'm running 15"(soon to be 14" alloy) wheels. I ditched the real landing leg. I have a tilt setup and a hawser hole cut in the bed for winching stuff up. Having the spare up front might get in the way of that setup.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/trailers/59482-m101a1-standard-3500lb-axle-swap.html