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More engine problems (Documentation of testing fuel system, failure of Hyd Head)

patracy

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glcaines

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You've done a great service to everyone on this site documenting this issue. You have likely saved some people time and expense regarding the perils of running out of fuel and how it can damage the HH if the engine isn't shut down immediately.
:beer:
 

Stretch44875

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Posted earlier in this thread that I was having some issues. Replaced the starter, fresh filters filled with diesel, and the truck is running great.
 

kawkev

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You've done a great service to everyone on this site documenting this issue. You have likely saved some people time and expense regarding the perils of running out of fuel and how it can damage the HH if the engine isn't shut down immediately.
:beer:
I can't agree more. All the suggestions and the documentation of your troubleshooting gives those of us with less experience a path to follow if trouble should arise. More importantly, the honest explanation of what you feel led to the trouble, fuel starvation at high RPM and continuing to drive, gives an important lesson in what not to do when you run out of fuel. Something I will certainly remember if my deuce starts stumbling on the road. (Better get that fuel guage working!)
This is just one example of why this is such a great site and I thank every one involved in this thread for the information. I hope someday I can contribute something as helpful back.
 

silverstate55

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Threads like this are what makes this site invaluable & worth contributing $$$ to keep going.

Thanks Patracy!
 

Shoprat 19th Engr

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Just Remember the when you use use motor oil it is thicker than Diesel fuel and you should have it in another fuel tank so you can heat the used oil to at least to 150 dgrees bofore you switch it to primeary fuel for the engine can run on it like it should but you could run 50/50 and it should run fine
 

silverstate55

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Just Remember the when you use use motor oil it is thicker than Diesel fuel and you should have it in another fuel tank so you can heat the used oil to at least to 150 dgrees bofore you switch it to primeary fuel for the engine can run on it like it should but you could run 50/50 and it should run fine
In winter months I thin my WMO/UMO mixture with either old diesel or hydraulic fluid, usually 80/20. I also filter it down to 2 microns, haven't had any problems in cold weather except for batteries not wanting to cooperate when the temps drop below 40-degrees...just got a battery heater wrap for them.
 

orren

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if you have good fuel pressure at the final filter that is all ok. you can flush the HH plunger by removing the center plug, turning engine so plunger is at lowest point, remove fuel supply line to HH, set throttle to max, and use clean air and fuel to push fuel and air down the plunger. this will dislodge any debris that may have blocked the plunger inlet. it may also show if any 'stuff' comes out the in port of the HH.
This is something I'm trying to do but the center plug is extremely tight and I've not been able to loosen it at all even
after soaking in penetrating oil and far exceeding torque spec. Do you think this is an indication that something is amiss with the HH/IP or am I just too weak? Sure don't want to break anything more than it already is.

Thanks for your suggestions.
Orren
 

TNJMurray

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We have always found it better to mix some good fuel with the junk you may be burning, I've had some state trucks that had been run with veg oil and some with waste oil . They all run like crap!!! Low power !! You name it . I always tell people that the govement designed that for emergencies only not as a daily use alternative. People always think the gama goat is amphibious , that it is but not to go fishing in the local lake. It was ment to go from the boat to the beach. Well enough preaching . If you need any parts Let us know. Tnjmurray.com
 

Heath_h49008

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But it says multi-fuel!!!

:deadhorse:


I will admit, I have a chance at a few hundred gal of old gasoline, diesel and waste oil/atf, and have been thinking good and hard about what it will take to blend, filter and match diesel viscosity/energy/lubricity/etc with whatever concoction I can mix up.

The only thing that gets me are the guys just dumping anything from gear oil to cooking grease into a drum or even straight into the truck yet seem surprised when things start breaking.

Home brewed fuel can be done right. Sometimes it just isn't, or wasn't by previous owners.

But hey, it makes for a good market in used and new Hydraulic Heads, right?
 

patracy

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This is something I'm trying to do but the center plug is extremely tight and I've not been able to loosen it at all even
after soaking in penetrating oil and far exceeding torque spec. Do you think this is an indication that something is amiss with the HH/IP or am I just too weak? Sure don't want to break anything more than it already is.

Thanks for your suggestions.
Orren
It takes a good bit of effort.
 

orren

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Anybody got any ideas on how to remove the HH when the red mark on a gear tooth
is gone?

I don't know but is it possible to remove the HH if number one cylinder is top-dead-center?
Hopefully so. Just a guess. Please help.
 

m-35tom

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With #1 at TDC and the timing pointer on the IP lined up, turn the engine backwards exactly 20°. The HH should now come out, but do not apply force.

edit: my bad it really is 20°!!
 
Last edited:

orren

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With #1 at TDC and the timing pointer on the IP lined up, turn the engine backwards exactly 120°. The HH should now come out, but do not apply force.
Tom,

Thanks for the reply but my problem is I can not see the red mark on the HH gear face or are you
talking about some other timing pointer on the IP. If so, where is it located? I need to be able
to remove the HH while IP is still mounted to engine.

Thanks for the help.
 
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