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Most valuable CUCV paint scheme?

Skinny

Well-known member
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83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Keep everything in perpective, we are talking about a truck that isn't high on collector value compared to others, always going to be in the sub-$10k price range, and already has a limited buyer's market. Who is dictating paint scheme's?

Paint it CARC and call it good, this is a CUCV. If you are dictating a buyer specified paint job in this price range (unless you are having it built) I would hand the buyer an invoice for the body work or tell them to FO.
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
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Location
IN
I agree with SCSG-G4 (Mike). I'm using the Behr Ultra Flat Exterior mixed to Federal Spec for green 383 (FS 34094). I find Flowtrol helps... my roller or brush marks disappear entirely over time. I can work on small areas and never have a match problem. At $32/gal., I don't think you can beat it.

After painting green, you can camo with flat black and brown 383 after green is dry. They will be more impressed with no rust than if you use expensive paint.
 
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richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
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63
Location
galveston/Texas
I agree that no rust is what gives a CUCV the most value. I bought a GL1009 out of Barstow just for that reason $3500 for it and that was a high price for one four years ago. I drove from Houston to Barstow to get it. It got the standard GL beat up. Bent sides, driveshaft's and cross member but it was rust free.
I will never buy a Rino-lined or any other kind of non removable lined vehicle. The rust gets under it and it is falling apart before you realize it and the only fix is cut out and replace.
I used Gillespie paint do not remember the cost. Forest or Marine green. Base color for the woodland camo. I like it but the dark green color lets you fry bacon on the hood in the summer.
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
Good point on the rustproofing and how it holds water and does not let it get away. Some directly applied enamels (no primer) will do that too.
 
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