Motor swaps

[Skrilex]

Why not get an off the shelf flux capacitor and then attached it to a 3 phase shifter with a negative space wedgie for park.
Can somebody please start a hot rodding HMMWV section or modified HMMWV section and leave this one alone.

Couldn’t you read the title? That should have been a good indication that this thread isn’t for purists. Just tune out, it’s not that difficult.

 

[Tornadogt]

Because 93-95ish 350 (5.7) gen1 smallblocks are turds.

 

[Tornadogt]

Why did AMG stop using the gas engine in the H1?

Because 93-95ish 350 (5.7) gen1 smallblocks are turds

 

[Recovry4x4]

Because 93-95ish 350 (5.7) gen1 smallblocks are turds.

What was the question that preceeded this answer?

 

[Skrilex]

What was the question that preceeded this answer?

Why they quit using 350’s in the h1’s

 

[Awol]

Very cool thank you.

how much Power does the 5.3 produce? Is it simple to make them run or takes a stand alone controller type thing?

Super super super easy to make them run stand alone. I simply take the stock engine harness out of the donor truck, remove all the wires that are not needed for a stand alone setup, and build my own fuse box. Usually I run 4 fuses, and two relays. Super easy to do, with all the info ever needed online. There's even step by step instructions on how to build the harness and fuse box.

I've built 3 harnesses so far, and non have given me any issues. I have the exact setup we're talking about in a car, and it's been bullet proof for thousands of miles so far. It's a 5.3 TH350 setup.

Most 5.3's made around 285hp, but the L33 aluminum HO engines made 310hp due to higher compression.

 

[Skrilex]

Is the fuel tank/sender/lines GTG with gasoline?

 

[porkysplace]

Because 93-95ish 350 (5.7) gen1 smallblocks are turds

And the mid to late 80's 5.7's had issues with the block cracking between the lifters , GM thinned the block to cut weight.

 

[Dock Rocker]

Is the fuel tank/sender/lines GTG with gasoline?

You will have to put an inline pump in to get to the needed fuel pressure. Again really easy to do.


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[Dock Rocker]

Very cool thank you.

how much Power does the 5.3 produce? Is it simple to make them run or takes a stand alone controller type thing?

Also there are many different companies that make a stand alone harness. They are not very expensive either.


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[Awol]

Also there are many different companies that make a stand alone harness. They are not very expensive either.


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You could buy a stand alone harness already completed, but it cost less than $20 to make your own.

 

[Skrilex]

Well I found a Power pack! Came in a crappy dodge wrapper but made it easy to get home! So, I think this is my direction. I’m happy, as I said, owning one of these engines has been a goal for a while irrespective of the humvee project.

So, now I’m researching what to do to the engine before installing. I’ll clean it up, but I’m womdering if I should do any tuning or maintenance before removal? I’ll probably check for the infamous killer dowel pin and address that. Also I be,ieventhe trans might have been upgraded to a A618, in the electrical form, which may also be called a 47re, not sure. I don’t know much about autos so I’m not sure what’s best to do with that. It seems to shift well but it has some sort of troublesome TPS and the previous owner had installed a potentiometer knob that controls the OD or the lockup or something.

 

[DatGuyC]

I'm guessing that's a 12 valve, welcome to the club. I can tell you some of the things I did to mine while it is on the engine stand so I wouldn't have to do them in the truck. Mine came out of a 95 so some things might not apply to yours.
- New head gasket/ stronger grade 12 head bolts
- larger injector nozzles
- killer dowel pin
- new mechanical fuel pump/filter. Not sure if yours has the WIF sensor but there is a filter to get rid of it.
- removed fuel pre-heater
- billet tappet cover
- billet freeze plugs
- new valve cover seals
- new oil pan gasket
- 4bt power steering bracket/pump
- sanded the rust off the block and painted it
- water pump and serpentine belt
- front and rear main seals
- made a bracket for a 24 volt alternator
- removed the oil cooler and made sure it wasn't leaking and put in new gaskets

There's probably other stuff I can't remember right now. Feel free to ask questions if you have any, mines still on the stand so if you think of something I haven't I'd love to get that done before I start my swap in the summer.

 

[Skrilex]

Wow awesome that’s the list I need! Yes I’ll have many questions. I thought yours was already on the road, apparently we will be doing concurrent swaps. That’s good for me lol, hope you have Long coat tails.
Yes it’s a 12v, 1992. Not sure what differences it has to a 95, not many I think. The injectors on earlier non ic engines were bigger, but these might be same as later. Good call on water pump and front cover stuff.

Why the 4bt power steering setup?
Are we using the power steering pump to run the hydro boost brakes?

 

[DatGuyC]

Wow awesome that’s the list I need! Yes I’ll have many questions. I thought yours was already on the road, apparently we will be doing concurrent swaps. That’s good for me lol, hope you have Long coat tails.
Yes it’s a 12v, 1992. Not sure what differences it has to a 95, not many I think. The injectors on earlier non ic engines were bigger, but these might be same as later. Good call on water pump and front cover stuff.

Why the 4bt power steering setup?
Are we using the power steering pump to run the hydro boost brakes?

The HMMWV hydro-boost is ran off the power steering pump so there is no need for the vacuum pump. I believe you can just block off the intake for the vacuum pump and it will be fine but I was never 100% sure on that. The vacuum pump is also pretty long and I didn't know if it would interfere with the motor mounts I have to fab up to fit the HMMWV frame so I just got a 4bt bracket when I found one, they are really rare it seems.

 

[Skrilex]

I was thinking it would be fun to do some free/ cheap power up mods while it’s in the truck a baseline of performance and play with it before pulling. Wow, the ve Pump has a LOT of adjustments. Ive always heard about fuel screws and I’ve turned a few with good results, and my ford has a custom fuel map type thing on one of its two controllers, so little more complex, but this Ve Pump cummins has a full power screw, a smoke screw, a star wheel, a fuel pin, and idle adjustment. All these relate to each other so I’m thinking I’m already over my head. Especially with the fact that if these are adjusted wrong, the engine can run away and melt down! Since the engine is the whole reason I bought the truck I’d like to avoid that if possible.

learning is fun. I’ll do some research on 4btswaps.com butnif anyone has gems of 12v knowledge they would like to pass on I’m all ears .

so, datcguy, why do you think studs and a new gasket is necessary? I thought that was just a ford fault. Does the 6bt use TTY head bolts? Not that I don’t like the idea, but a head gasket job is pretty big job and cost at least 600$ in parts I’m guessing. Maybe you are turning yours up more than I’m planning. I was hoping to keep stock injectors for now. But, a head gasket sure would be easier to install on the stand than under the windshield huh?

 

[98G]

I'm guessing that's a 12 valve, welcome to the club. I can tell you some of the things I did to mine while it is on the engine stand so I wouldn't have to do them in the truck. Mine came out of a 95 so some things might not apply to yours.
- New head gasket/ stronger grade 12 head bolts
- larger injector nozzles
- killer dowel pin
- new mechanical fuel pump/filter. Not sure if yours has the WIF sensor but there is a filter to get rid of it.
- removed fuel pre-heater
- billet tappet cover
- billet freeze plugs
- new valve cover seals
- new oil pan gasket
- 4bt power steering bracket/pump
- sanded the rust off the block and painted it
- water pump and serpentine belt
- front and rear main seals
- made a bracket for a 24 volt alternator
- removed the oil cooler and made sure it wasn't leaking and put in new gaskets

There's probably other stuff I can't remember right now. Feel free to ask questions if you have any, mines still on the stand so if you think of something I haven't I'd love to get that done before I start my swap in the summer.

Head studs for sure.

 

[DatGuyC]

I was thinking it would be fun to do some free/ cheap power up mods while it’s in the truck a baseline of performance and play with it before pulling. Wow, the ve Pump has a LOT of adjustments. Ive always heard about fuel screws and I’ve turned a few with good results, and my ford has a custom fuel map type thing on one of its two controllers, so little more complex, but this Ve Pump cummins has a full power screw, a smoke screw, a star wheel, a fuel pin, and idle adjustment. All these relate to each other so I’m thinking I’m already over my head. Especially with the fact that if these are adjusted wrong, the engine can run away and melt down! Since the engine is the whole reason I bought the truck I’d like to avoid that if possible.

learning is fun. I’ll do some research on 4btswaps.com butnif anyone has gems of 12v knowledge they would like to pass on I’m all ears .

so, datcguy, why do you think studs and a new gasket is necessary? I thought that was just a ford fault. Does the 6bt use TTY head bolts? Not that I don’t like the idea, but a head gasket job is pretty big job and cost at least 600$ in parts I’m guessing. Maybe you are turning yours up more than I’m planning. I was hoping to keep stock injectors for now. But, a head gasket sure would be easier to install on the stand than under the windshield huh?

When I got my engine it was already out of the truck so I was never able to see it run. I didn't want to do all the work of the swap and then have to take it back out to do the head gasket if it had a blown one. I don't think there is enough room to remove the head under the windshield. The stock head bolts are TTY but I got some long grade 12 bolts from McMasterCarr to replace them. If you search online it seems to be a common upgrade. I'm not turning my truck up all that much at all, I just want it to be bullet proof because I never want to have to take the engine out again haha. I don't remember the cost exactly but I don't think it was anywhere near $600 even with the new bolts.

Edit:
Head bolts from McMaster were $70, Victor Reinz head gasket kit from RockAuto was $93.

 

[Skrilex]

I was just quoting what arp studs would cost, 435$, plus a gasket ~$100 and associated other stuff possibly needed. But bolts is another way to go I guess. But my research indicates that under 45psi boost doesn’t “really” require new studs or gasket. And some folks retorque to stock bolts which, if they are tty, is a no-no, but it seems to be a good idea on these apparently.

 

[98G]

I was just quoting what arp studs would cost, 435$, plus a gasket ~$100 and associated other stuff possibly needed. But bolts is another way to go I guess. But my research indicates that under 45psi boost doesn’t “really” require new studs or gasket. And some folks retorque to stock bolts which, if they are tty, is a no-no, but it seems to be a good idea on these apparently.

I've got a RAM 3500 with the Cummins. I have put 200,000 miles on this one. It's the 2nd such truck I've had.

As a result I've done a bunch of reading and research on the 5.9/6.7 cummins. The headgasket is the first thing to let go, usually as the result of stretched head bolts. This is prone to happen even at relatively modest power levels. If you're turning it up at all, head studs may keep you from having to pull the engine out later to gain access.

At 290hp and 550lbs of torque, head bolts are probably ok.

Whatever you do , I watch with interest.