Mounted my spare on my M101a2

TITANBOW

New member
16
23
3
Location
Longmont
So, probably not the most ideal way to mount a spare, but I have been racking my brain on the best way to mount my spare, without spending a bunch of money or doing a lot of modifications. I think this is going to work out but I am definitely open to feedback.

I bolted a 3" piece of thick flat steel through the frame, with bolts that go through the full 3" or so thickness of the frame. The weight of the tire is resting on this piece. Then, I ran 4 - 8 inch 3/4" bolts through a 18" flat piece of steel and large fender washer, from the inside of the trailer through the lugnut holes on the tire. It seems like it is held solidly like this. Anyone look at this and immediately think its not safe or I shouldn't mount it this way?

Spare Tire.jpg
 

Coug

Well-known member
1,137
647
113
Location
Olympia/WA
other than having a little more tongue weight I don't see it being an issue.
Drilling holes in the top and bottom of the frame is usually frowned upon as it weakens it, especially as that's the point with the most stress on it for a trailer, so might not be a bad idea to weld on some additional metal there. Might not be needed with how beefy these trailers are to begin with if you're staying within the military load specs, but most of us end up going way over the military ratings because they are primarily cross country/rough terrain.

I'd say add some angle iron to the bottom or something else to stiffen up your flat bar, even if it's just there for when you bolt the tire to the front of the bed.

Why do you have quick release pins holding the tongue to the bed? Despite what some people say, these aren't a dump trailer, and the connection from the frame to the tongue is the wrong angle; you can break the frame trying to use this as a dump trailer (unless it's been modified for the correct angle necessary, in which case disregard)
 

TITANBOW

New member
16
23
3
Location
Longmont
other than having a little more tongue weight I don't see it being an issue.
Drilling holes in the top and bottom of the frame is usually frowned upon as it weakens it, especially as that's the point with the most stress on it for a trailer, so might not be a bad idea to weld on some additional metal there. Might not be needed with how beefy these trailers are to begin with if you're staying within the military load specs, but most of us end up going way over the military ratings because they are primarily cross country/rough terrain.

I'd say add some angle iron to the bottom or something else to stiffen up your flat bar, even if it's just there for when you bolt the tire to the front of the bed.

Why do you have quick release pins holding the tongue to the bed? Despite what some people say, these aren't a dump trailer, and the connection from the frame to the tongue is the wrong angle; you can break the frame trying to use this as a dump trailer (unless it's been modified for the correct angle necessary, in which case disregard)

Thanks, I added those pins when I took the whole thing apart to paint it. I read up about it after the fact, not to use it as a dump trailer, so I never have used it in that fashion, nor have any plans to ever dump it. I had the pins laying around and they were the same size as the rusted old bolts that they replaced, so really just used them out of convenience.
I will look at adding a little more re-enforcement to the flat bar. The purpose of this trailer is really just for hauling family camping gear and hunting camp, so I don't really see that I would ever get even close to the max weight limit
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks