Multifuel engine turbo oil tube

[seaaggie]

I have an oil leak at the oil tube enters the engine block on my multifuel. Someone told me to just tighten up the nit but if that didn't resolve it there was an o-ring inside that may need replacing. After trying to tighten the nut, and not making any movement, I took the tube off and inspected it. Both ends appear to be compression fitted and aren't cracked or otherwise damaged. It was never my experience that a compression fitting used any o-ring at all. I always thought the idea of a compression fitting was that the more pressure applied by the nut the better the seal.

Does this really use an o-ring?

 

[wdbtchr]

Compression fittings can only be tightened to a certain point, then the nut bottoms and it won't tighten any more. Adding an O ring might work for a while but it's not a permanent fix.

 

[ctmustang]

If you take the original tube to any descent garage or machine shop they will make a new one for probably 10 dollars. I made the same tube for one of my other trucks for the same leak. Took me about 15 minutes.
CT

 

[Flyingvan911]

My deuce just started to leak there. And just a few days after I fixed a fuel leak. Literally a leak-of-the-week situation.

 

[stumps]

One thing that compression fittings absolutely rely upon is the tubing being perfectly smooth. If there are any lines scribed into the sidewall of the tubing (from the manufacturer's drawing die), the fitting won't seal no matter how tight you make it. Also, if you over tighten, you can make matters worse because the tubing will often buckle slightly leaving a gap between the compression ring, and the tubing. Sometimes you can solve the problem by using a sealant, but only if the leak is minor, and not some substance that will dissolve the sealant. Permatex 300 (aka black goo) works well most of the time. Put a very little amount of the sealant on the cut end side of the compression ring, and assemble the fitting.

-Chuck

 

[seaaggie]

If you take the original tube to any descent garage or machine shop they will make a new one for probably 10 dollars. I made the same tube for one of my other trucks for the same leak. Took me about 15 minutes.
CT

3 machine shops and 2 mechanics later the only option ive been given is $60 from a hydraulic line shop. Anyone out there have other suggestions?

 

[gimpyrobb]

I understand that the original is NOT copper, but couldn't you just bend up one on your own with copper tube? The PSI isn't an issue, I have copper tube on my shop air compressor, and it has been tested up to 200psi.

 

[stumps]

The problem with copper is it work hardens from the vibration, and will eventually crack. So instead, bend one up out of steel brake/fuel line, which is just what the original happens to be.

In this particular case, however, I would just take some Permatex 300 (aka black goop), and paint the area where the cut ends, and the compression rings meet, and reassemble the line. It won't leak anymore.

-Chuck

 

[gimpyrobb]

You think the turbo oil supply will really vibrate that much? I guess it could.

 

[stumps]

You think the turbo oil supply will really vibrate that much? I guess it could.

Yeah, actually. The turbo is hanging off of the engine a fair distance, and the engine block is massive and vibrates quite a bit.

-Chuck

 

[seaaggie]

The problem with copper is it work hardens from the vibration, and will eventually crack. So instead, bend one up out of steel brake/fuel line, which is just what the original happens to be.

In this particular case, however, I would just take some Permatex 300 (aka black goop), and paint the area where the cut ends, and the compression rings meet, and reassemble the line. It won't leak anymore.

-Chuck

Thanks Chuck, the Permatex worked lime a charm!