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my 1st m1008- started, now no start. ALso rust question

HikerLT

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OK, major Newbie here....and NOT a majot motorhead, so forgive my dumb questions.

Just had my 1st M1008 delivered from my GovLiquidations auction win. Overall I am happy - looks like new batteries, looks like new exhaust, new Vinyl cover on Bask...

Here is my major problem now:

WON"T START:

1) The Hauler said it started fine when he picked it up, and he was able to drive it onto the ramp truck. It has a full fuel tank ( found that out when I tried to dump 5 gallons of diesel and it only could fit 4 !)

2) Now it will NOT start. The wait light comes on, and after a while goes out and the engine turns over...see "smoke" coming from the exhaust, so must be getting fuel to the cylinders...but no iginition, nothing.

3) We cracked open the bleed plug on top of the fuel pump and fuel came squirting out, this was with it not running or turning over, so to me indicates the fuel is under pressure.

Ive searched all of the "won't start" posts here, and am a bit confused as to the most likely things that I should look for first.

I don't have a "test light" (not sure what that is) but do have a DVM Digital Volt Meter and a degree in EE, so I understand the electrical stuff pretty well.

Any suggestions as to the things I should check ?
I did just place an order for new glow plugs , the 070 kind referred to in one of the other no start threads.

Should I look for a voltage at the glow plugs that goes to zero as the plugs heat up when trying to start ?.

what else...? Could the vibration of the ride shook something loose ?

Any help appreciated......

KNow any good reliable "Mobile" Diesel Mechanics in Central Mass ?
(grin).

******************

RUST QUESTION:

The back lower corner passenger side is rusted out. My B'inLaw says you can purchase these body sections..he says just cut it out and weld it in.....any ideas where these body part sections can be purchased ?. One place I found is :
http://www.howellautomotive.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=539&Page=2

where they advertise a right side full door shell.....but I don't need the whole thing....and I am not quite sure is this is the DOOR, or the section of the body that the door fits into when closed.....

Thanks,
LT
 

pc3nmcb

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If you have fuel at the injectors I would check the glow plugs, There sticky's on here to help you step by step. I myself am pretty new at this also. I'm sure someone with more experience will help. Good luck
 

hobie237

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Can you take a photo of which body parts you need replaced? They're all available cheaply through a variety of sources, I think my buddy pretty much built half his '67 Chevy out of the JC Whitney catalog.

Glow plugs would be my bet on the no start issue, as you have fuel.
 

papercu

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just cut it out and weld it in...
Do a little more reading on the CARC paint before cuting and welding. Door shell means just the metal door. test light is just a handheld tester (looks like a screwdriver) with a metal probe on one end 12 or 24v lamp in the handle and a grounding clamp on the other end, should be less than 5 bucks. Wayne
 

mangus580

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Its the glow plugs... guarantee it. Either the controller isnt turning them on, the solenoid is bad, or the glow plugs are bad.
 

HikerLT

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mangus580 said:
Its the glow plugs... guarantee it. Either the controller isnt turning them on, the solenoid is bad, or the glow plugs are bad.
when you say "solenoid".....do you mean the glow plug relay ? Where is it located, and most importatnt, where can I obtain replacement ?
 

mangus580

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on the firewall just to the left of the master cylinder. You should hear it 'clunk' when you turn the key on... and clunk again about 10 seconds later.
 

ARMYMAN30YearsPlus

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If you really want to start it a one to two second spray of ether in the intake and then go immediately and start without waiting for glow plugs. It will make a little bark and the fire right up.
 

maritimer

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no offence but there is a reason why theres a big sticker that says "do not use starting aids"
check the glow plugs and relay on the fire wall if that doesnt work then look at the controller card under the dash*black box about the size of a smoke pack* look in the CUCV troubleshooting section for the writeup on manual glow plug conversion for pointers if non of that works you have a fuel or air issue
 

ARMYMAN30YearsPlus

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I know the main reason is that if starting aids are used the engine must be cranked immediately not allowing the glow plugs to cycle. The glow plugs are a weak link in my mind in fact in my 6.5 TD Suburban the #8 one is almost impossible to change without removing the exhaust. Gotta love the downsized versions of trucks that used to let you work on them easily.
 

CCATLETT1984

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if you do try ether, do one thing first. remove the top large wire from the glow plug relay on the firewall, this will make sure the glow plugs have no juice. The main reason for not using starting aids in these enignes, if you have functioning glow plugs they will heat enough to combust the ether in the prechamber. and could do some really bad things to the top of the engine (can blow a head off the engine).

It is a glow plug issue as stated above (smoke means you are getting fuel, just not enough heat to ignite it)
 

ssgtwright-usmc

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If you are looking for sheet metal body parts for repairs then I suggest these 2 sites,
(www.classicparts.com) and also (www.lmctruck.com). For sheet metel parts I think classic parts are the cheapest but for anything else, lmc trucks seems to have a much wider selection to choose from.
They both also have free catalogs you can also request for.
 

HikerLT

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brookline, nh
Success....

Got it Running today.....!! Had to replace the Glow plugs - it appears to me that 6 of the 8 were bad.
The new glow plugs measure around 1 ohm resistance...2 of the 8 I removed were low resistance around <2ohms, so I assume they were OK. The rest were much higher resistance , so I assume they were bad.

Did one short, small squirt of ether without allowing the glow plugs to get hot ....It started right up, runs fine YAHOO !!!

The Engine sounds good...Rides fine. Now to bid and win an auction for one of the M101a trailer...(grin)...


The true test will be when I try it again in a week, trying to start when it is cold...

The next few small problems :
1) the dashboard voltmeter does not work
2) the left turn signal lamp on the dashboard does not work ( The outside front and rear lamps are flashing, just the dashboard indicator is not)
3) replace that rusted rear lower cab corner passenger side


here is a pic of the truck from today ....it has just over 31k miles, and so far I've invested just about $1975 into it., including the hauling costs..
 

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HikerLT

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OK, Truck will not start when COLD - requires shot of ether.

GLOW PLUG Relay Questions:

1) if you look at the "NEW.JPG " picture in the FAQ ( http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=21464 ) I think I have the same type of Glow plug relay. However, it shows the
RED wire - on top
BLUE wire - 2nd down
PNK/BLK wire 3rd down
ORANGE wires on bottom

2) Here is pic of MY Glow Plug Relay - the middle BLUE and PNK/BLK wires appear to be REVERSED as compared to the NEW.JPG pic:

RED wire - on top
PNK/BLK wire 2nd down
BLUE wire - 3rd down
ORANGE wires on bottom



Here are the voltages I measure:

Key OFF:

RED - 25v
Pnk/Blk - 0v
Blue- 0 v
Orange - 0 V
glow plug terminal - 0 v


Key ON - Wait Light ON:

RED - 25v
Pnk/Blk - 12v
Blue-0.8 v
Orange - 0 .5 V
glow plug terminal- 0.5V
 

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HikerLT

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brookline, nh
YOu were correct - I replaced the relay with a brand new one, and the truck now starts right up !!!

Changed the oil today, now just waiting for the title request to complete so I can register the truck.

Now to investiigate why the Heat does not seem to work....
 

CCATLETT1984

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you get air blowing but no heat? first check the lines going to and from the heater core, one could have collapsed. then i'd say its time to replace the thermostat. FYI its the expensive one at the parts store, they will have two listed. Its the $37 one.
 
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