My CUCV spin on fuel filter mod

[TechnoWeenie]

You have to have a way to bleed the air from the system. Add a valve of some sort.

Home depot has NPT nipples + NPT ball valves, in addition to NPT-> barbed.

That's how I did mine.

 

[86k5]

 

[86k5]

View attachment 448387

All parts: fittings fuel line ect. From napa.
Easy to instal I'm no mechanic. And this was done in an hour.
after it was all installed the only advice I have is prime it with the hand primer (this is an additional part for the fm100)
And be sure to bleed the air. (it's the valve facing towards you on the front. After I got all the air out it cranked right up.
The fm100 is not labeled as far as which fitting is "in" and which is "out".
looking at the picture. the "in" hose is the one farthest back. Or closest to firewall. this was easy to figure out with the primer pump installed. One was pulling air. One was pushing.
It's labeled on the old stock unit. Which hose was what.
good luck!

 

[redwhiteandblue]

All parts: fittings fuel line ect. From napa.
Easy to instal I'm no mechanic. And this was done in an hour.
after it was all installed the only advice I have is prime it with the hand primer (this is an additional part for the fm100)
And be sure to bleed the air. (it's the valve facing towards you on the front. After I got all the air out it cranked right up.
The fm100 is not labeled as far as which fitting is "in" and which is "out".
looking at the picture. the "in" hose is the one farthest back. Or closest to firewall. this was easy to figure out with the primer pump installed. One was pulling air. One was pushing.
It's labeled on the old stock unit. Which hose was what.
good luck!

What is the part # for the primer pump or did it come with the bracket (fm100)? Thanks!

 

[86k5]

The filter and base come together.
The primer is an add on.
Part # for primer Napa 4921
# for filter/base. Napa 4913

I also have a settling bowl for any water on mine. That part # is 4924

any questions with instillation just let me know

 

[K9Vic]

Pawnshop, this is your NAPA filter base in my truck as I bought some parts from Pinky. So even in death some of it will live on.

I had to get these fittings and some new hose clamps. I could have used one 3/8 hose, but I had a nice hose with a near 90 bend so I connected them together as you did.
1- 3/8 to 3/8 hose barb splice
1-3/8 to 1/4 hose barb splice (I had to make one)

After that it all went in fine and works great. I used some large nuts to gap it away from the firewall and just clears, but I think I will add a few washers as my A/C cover is what is close. The filter I got from O'Reilly using the WIX 33123 filter as NAPA is too far away and it is the same filter.



My OEM filter base was leaking at the top bleed valve and I could not fix it. That seems to be part of why my fuel mileage just sucked at like 12-14mpg. With a 700R4 it should get near about 18mpg or more.

 

[86k5]

The filter and base come together.
The primer is an add on.
Part # for primer Napa 4921
# for filter/base. Napa 4913

I also have a settling bowl for any water on mine. That part # is 4924

any questions with instillation just let me know

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Nice. Roughly how much is that setup in round numbers?

 

[86k5]

Nice. Roughly how much is that setup in round numbers?

Filter/ base # 4913. 77$
Primer pump. #4921. 47$
Settling bowl. #4924. 65$.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Not trying to cut the NAPA guys on price but Gimpyrobb has the filters and bases in the classifieds.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-FM100-and-Napa-3546-filters&highlight=filter
Scroll through for updated pricing. I have these for all my trucks and a lifetime supply of filters from Gimpster.

 

[Recovry4x4]

All parts: fittings fuel line ect. From napa.
Easy to instal I'm no mechanic. And this was done in an hour.
after it was all installed the only advice I have is prime it with the hand primer (this is an additional part for the fm100)
And be sure to bleed the air. (it's the valve facing towards you on the front. After I got all the air out it cranked right up.
The fm100 is not labeled as far as which fitting is "in" and which is "out".
looking at the picture. the "in" hose is the one farthest back. Or closest to firewall. this was easy to figure out with the primer pump installed. One was pulling air. One was pushing.
It's labeled on the old stock unit. Which hose was what.
good luck!

If you look down on the header from the top, you will see arrows depicting flow right below where each port is machined.

 

[Dozer11B]

This post has been going for a bit, no need to stop now!

Was given a link to this thread after posting about my leaky base (vent plug won't hold seal) and there are some great options for the conversion.

I'm personally inclined to go with the Caterpillar 3208 filter head with hand primer pictured on page 2 (ETA: Post #19). Something about the all aluminum base and hand primer looks robust. I was able to find the hand primer with gasket on ebay for less than $20 shipped, but am having trouble finding the filter head/base itself. Does anyone have a part number for this head/base? I have also asked the ebay seller who sells the hand primer so if he responds back first, I will post it here so others may go this route as well.

For now I have added a decent sized dab of black RTV to the rubber stopper end of my vent plug. I'm gonna give it a full 24 hours to cure. It is oil resistant, but will it stand up to diesel? I'm hoping this is a quick fix while I gather all the parts/fittings as the leak is bad enough I can't drive it.

Thanks guys. Great thread.

2nd ETA: I'm not afraid to JB weld the vent hole (if it will stand up to diesel) for now just to get back to driving my truck- too much stuff has been slowing me down to get it running and borrowing the wife's Command Variant (2008 Suburban) is getting old. I will just salvage the new fuel pressure switch I installed and scrap the rest of the filter base after the conversion probably...

 

[Dozer11B]

I got everything plumbed up, but wanted to make sure it's right since some of the guys doing this mod talked about having to hunt down 3/8 to 1/4 reducer fittings and such. I just used 3/8 and 1/4 barb fittings directly into the unit.



Right/rear port is in (3/ and goes to the hard line that runs along the intake. Right/front is output and goes to the IP, correct? I added a bleeder to the left/rear using a motorcycle petcock, coupler, and 1/4 barb fitting.

I'm ready to prime and crank it up, just don't want to jack anything up before I do. Thanks guys

 

[Anubis8472]

I could be wrong, but isn't your vent on the wrong port?


I just had to replace my radiator (rock through it).
Everything went great, oil/trans lines mated right up and no leaks.
Went ahead and swapped in some new GP's while I was at it, everything still great.
Then I decided the fuel filter was due......

I suppose three things going well was to much to ask. I simply can't get the new filter to seal. The rubber seals just won't mate up well enough, despite the surface being perfectly clean.
On top of that I busted the plastic vent plug off and it's seeping there as well.
The worste part is that I'll have to drive my Ford for another week waiting for parts again.

So I went ahead and ordered a racor 445 and some A-1 marine fuel lines.

Does the racor filter fit without extending the mounting bracket up?

 

[Anubis8472]

Well this has really become a pain.

After a serious struggle to get the new hoses on, even using a heat gun to warm them up because they would freeze stiff before I could get them in place, I'm just dumping fuel all over the driveway.

The racor 445 took several tries to get the gaskets to seal, but the real issue is that the hand primer is junk.

The hand primer on top of the unit doesn't prime, it just sprays fuel out around the "button" when you try to use it. When the truck is running there's a steady stream of fuel leaking out around the hand primer.

I should have listened to that little voice that kept telling me "You don't need a primer model, keep it simple".

After getting confused looks and blank stares at all the local parts stores when I try to explain that I need a fuel filter base, I am 'this' close to just going ape #$%%.

All I can figure is the racor I have must be a bad casting, somehow plugged or cracked internally.
Fuel flows just fine, the truck will run great. It's just the dang primer on top that won't stop leaking.

Anyone know off hand a filter base that will work with the racor 400 series filters? (without a primer)

[edit]
So it looks like the racor filter is a 1-14 thread. I reserved a 4770 at the local NAPA, the same NAPA who told me just earlier today that they don't carry anything like that, but they can order a factory replacement if I give them year/make/model.
I'll have to take apart the racor base and see if it can be salvaged. Maybe I can find a way to seal the primer component and use it for a secondary filter.

 

[Anubis8472]

Finally back on the road.

I used a couple pieces of angle alluminum to mount the 4770 up higher, using the factory bracket. Putting the top about level with the top of the factory bracket gives me plenty of room for the 3005 filter.


The racor filters won't work with the 4770. They are the same thread, but the racor is way to large (diameter) to mate to the 4770 base.
I also sent an e-mail off to parker/racor about the filter assembly leaking through the primer. The reply was pretty much, we have no idea why it's doing that, and we don't care.


One thing I would like to recommend to anyone doing a spin-on conversion, take a good look at the part before you install it.

On both the Racor as well as the 4770 I found a lot of flakey metal from bad casting/machining. Both bases had pieces that could dislodge with just the slightest touch.

I'd hate to see those little metal flakes making thier way to the IP.

 

[hatzie]

Racor must be moving operations to China. Too bad. They were a good outfit.

 

[Skinny]

I installed a Racor on a boat last year and I was terrible. The filter was installed way too tight, leaked everywhere, and it costs more than all the competition. I love my Stanadyne FM100, both the pre and post heads are easy to change/service/install with zero leaks. Plus the manual primer makes changing filters easy on the batteries.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

From local supply store


1-14 base - $35
Baldwin 7546 - 10 micron water separator fuel filter w/drain - $12


From Home depot.

Brass MPT 1/2" xclose nipple - $2
Brass MPT 1/2" x 3/8" barb - $3 x 2
Brass Reducer MPT 1/2" x 1/4" FPT -$3
Brass MPT 1/4" x 1/4" barb -$3
1/2" FPT x 1/2" FPT Ball valve - $7 (for super easy bleeding)
3/8" x 3/8" barb coupler - $2

From Oreilly Auto

2' 1/4" fuel line - $2
2' 3/8" fuel line - $2
8 hose clamps - $4
1/4"x1/4" barb coupler - $2


I tried using right angle adapters, to simulate the current downward facing connectors, but since they're spin on... I can't have more than one port full.. Which is a no-go...

 

[ssdvc]

My question is this, will this ball valve, the 1/2" FPT x 1/2" FPT Ball valve - $7 (for super easy bleeding) hold up to the diesel fuel? I thought one might need a "fuel" compatible valve for that bleeder. I am hoping I am wrong !!