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My deuce caught on fire

ToddJK

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Yesterday I had a moment high on the pucker factor. My fuel line to the flame heater melted on the intake. How this happened, either the heat, age, or the collaboration of things. It ended causing a loss in power and my truck was surging. I could barely get it up to speed in third gear. I also had a brake sticking up front. Smelled burning plastic and thought maybe I have an electrical shortage and it was grounding out but the voltage meter was in the green so that was confusing. One thing my gauges did tell me was that the temp gauge was saying something was wrong. Hovering around 210 and still increasing, I pulled over and got out while the truck was running. Saw fluids pouring in the ground on the passenger side. Went and looked and from the panel under the passenger fender, I saw flames! I quickly shut it down and grabbed my fire extinguisher from my tool box. It was only a 2.5lb extinguisher, but it did the trick for the most part. After it was emptied, still had some flames and they were coming back even larger than before. Thought for sure I was gonna have to wait for the FD and watch her burn. I took my water bottles from my cooler and started spraying water on the flames. 3 water bottles later I got it out. The sigh of relief was over the top. I had some back up come out and I dumped 3 gallons of water on that side of the truck to make sure no flames or smoke was visible. Used a zip tie to tie up that fuel line after I folded it to stop it from leaking. To my amazement, there wasn't any extensive damage. The truck started right up as if nothing was wrong. Temperature went down and I got the brake to release. Got it home and no truck or people was burned up so that's good. Now I know why others say to delete the flame heater and here it was a project way down the list of priorities to get done. That bit me in the rear.
I checked it over today and while some wires was burned, looked all but one, the coating, black tape, saved the wire. My starter wires are burned but looks mostly to be the black tape and some of the insulation but no exposed wire. My solenoid wires were burned pretty good, one is completely exposed while the other is still intact and covered. The heat also discolored the paint on the hood. I'm going to leave the flame heater on there for now but I'm going to remove all fuel lines to it and plug the return port, remove the tee for the supply and replace my 1/4 fuel lines for the injectors. I have some 14 gauge wire laying around so I will rewire the solenoid and check the wires on the starter. Probably either rewrap them or replace them depending what I discover as I dig into it but replacement sounds to be of the best plan. I included some pics of the aftermath.
 

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cattlerepairman

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Man!!
First off, glad you are ok and the truck...well a few things look toasty but nothing that a few parts can't fix.

I have been responding to vehicle fires for the last 25 years and kudos for having a fire extinguisher ready and for the quick thinking with the water bottles. Well done.
I would say that 80% of vehicle fires I go to end with the vehicle being scrap.

And, yes, the flame heater is an interesting technical solution that needs to go, unless absolutely needed for winter ops.

Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk
 

ToddJK

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Man!!
First off, glad you are ok and the truck...well a few things look toasty but nothing that a few parts can't fix.

I have been responding to vehicle fires for the last 25 years and kudos for having a fire extinguisher ready and for the quick thinking with the water bottles. Well done.
I would say that 80% of vehicle fires I go to end with the vehicle being scrap.

And, yes, the flame heater is an interesting technical solution that needs to go, unless absolutely needed for winter ops.

Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk
Yeah, I was determined to not see my favorite toy go up in flames, lol. The flame heater is definitely something imo, that needs to be deleted. I'd rather just use either even if I'm not supposed too instead of that. Definitely makes sense why the military didn't stick with it.
 

Gypsyman

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I just finished up machining flame heater delete plugs and installing them on my truck. If you want the nozzle and spark plug off the truck I'll send you a set of the stainless plugs for free. Maybe that will take some of the sting out of the damage. Just shoot me a message.

Richard

IMG_7225.JPG
 

M35fan

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Glad you were able to get the fire put out. Mine was dripping before I removed it. I can tolerate a small oil leak, but leaking fuel is no good. Living in the south, I doubt it will ever get cold enough to need the flame heater anyway. My truck starts the same at 30 degrees as it does at 80. Safe travels!
 

Ferroequinologist

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First off,, glad you are ok, and that you were ready for something like that. It should serve as a reminder for us all to have an extinguisher, know how to use it, and check it regularly.

I can't remember the sizes off hand, but there are common metric oil pan drain plugs that cap off the intake holes for the flame heater. Look up the threads here about it. I deleted mine and it was quick and easy that way.
 

Gypsyman

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First off,, glad you are ok, and that you were ready for something like that. It should serve as a reminder for us all to have an extinguisher, know how to use it, and check it regularly.

I can't remember the sizes off hand, but there are common metric oil pan drain plugs that cap off the intake holes for the flame heater. Look up the threads here about it. I deleted mine and it was quick and easy that way.
Respectfully, I believe that statement is only half correct. The igniter hole is a standard metric thread. The nozzle is an oddball. I don't have my notes in front of me but I think we ended up at M20.5-1.27 (20 TPI). You don't have to look any further than the ether kits supplied by Quick Start/Hercules. The kits come with one off the shelf plug and one custom steel plug.

Going back through the old threads what I found was that most threads ended without a definitive solution or just flat out incorrect information. The closest metric plug is very sloppy and has the wrong pitch. Some have jammed a pipe plug in and wiped the threads out in the process. Others have just plugged the fuel ports in the nozzle or even cut the threaded end of the nozzle off and brazed it shut to make a plug. All of these solution work and accomplish the end goal of deleting the flame heater.

Personally, I didn't like any of those solutions so I made up a correct plug for the nozzle port. While I was at it I went ahead and made up a matching plug for the igniter port because I'm just weird about thing looking right and matching. Yes, I'm far too picky, and at my age I've given up trying to change that about myself.
 

ToddJK

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I just want to say thank you to everyone for sharing your concerns. I mostly wanted to bring a few things into light. One: have a fire extinguisher and if you do, I would go with a 5lb or one that has 5lbs of agent. The one I had was 2.5lbs and while it did work, if I didn't have the water, I'd have a bigger problem right now.
Second: be very cautious of keeping that flame heater if your truck has one. If you really need it, I suggest to rig up something so that the line can't melt under any circumstances on the intake or any part of the engine.
Thirdly: pay attention to your gauges and what sounds normal and smells. I didn't let the truck over heat but it never gets over 210 even with the winter kit on, so that was alarm number 1. The smell of burning plastic was alarm number 2. Pull over and shut her down! Lastly, be prepared for anything and stay calm. I had a slight panic moment when first seeing the fire, but afterwards when the extinguisher was out and still had some flames, I had to think and think fast.
At least everybody is okay and the truck still runs thankfully.
 

cattlerepairman

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With fire extinguishers, bigger is indeed better. Take the biggest class A, B, C extinguisher you are willing and able to fit. Usually a 5 lbs or bigger. Personally, I recommend a 10lbs.
There is no point in throwing the extinguisher into the back of the tool cabinet and burying it under other stuff. When you need it, you REALLY need it. Take the time to mount it properly, ideally in the cab or somewhere where you can easily get it (and regularly see it, so you do not forget that it is there).

IF you suspect or confirm a fire, similar to @ToddJK, pull over, put parking brake on, shut engine off and switch off electrical. If you have a battery disconnect, disconnect that, too.

CALL 911 NOW!

It will take the fire department a few minutes to get to you and that will feel like an eternity. Dont delay getting them going. They rather give you an 'attaboy for having put the fire out than getting called late and being unable to save your truck.

Get access to whatever is burning. No use firing a fire extinguisher at the radiator from the outside....the agent won't make it into the engine compartment. Fortunately, the Deuce engine compartment is easily accessed with the side flaps. Hit the visible flames at their bottom, do not blindly spray into smoke or at stuff that is not on fire. It is ok to stop for a second and re-assess. A 10lbs extinguisher sprays continuously for 10-25 seconds; smaller extinguishers accordingly much shorter. You can stop the spray and pause at any time.

If the fire is electrical in nature and fizzles wires inside the cab/under the dash, you need to get the power disconnected. A battery disconnect is great, otherwise you need to pull the GROUND (-) off the battery. Yes, you can pull the short cable connecting the two batteries, but ground is safer because you will not arc against the frame when you do things quickly and excitedly.

In a TIRE fire, usually due to locked brakes - which you should figure out in an anemic Deuce wayyyyyy before any trouble occurs - you have bad cards to start with. A 5lbs extinguisher will kill the fire but the heated mass of the tire with the steel belting inside is hot enough to re-ignite as soon as oxygen gets to it.
There have been cases where "driving the burning tire off the rim" has been successful - i.e. drive until the tire falls off. I do not recommend this; it might still torch your truck and you may also light a mile of grassland on fire as you drive along, spewing burning debris. Not a super likely scenario on a Deuce.

In summary,
- get a class ABC fire extinguisher, 5lbs or bigger, 10 lbs is good
- mount it where you can get to it and see it (so you do not forget to have it tested every couple of years)
- think about how you would use it and "go through the motions". Mental preparedness reduces stress and automates your response.
 

Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
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Liberty Hill, SC
Respectfully, I believe that statement is only half correct. The igniter hole is a standard metric thread. The nozzle is an oddball. I don't have my notes in front of me but I think we ended up at M20.5-1.27 (20 TPI). You don't have to look any further than the ether kits supplied by Quick Start/Hercules. The kits come with one off the shelf plug and one custom steel plug.

Going back through the old threads what I found was that most threads ended without a definitive solution or just flat out incorrect information. The closest metric plug is very sloppy and has the wrong pitch. Some have jammed a pipe plug in and wiped the threads out in the process. Others have just plugged the fuel ports in the nozzle or even cut the threaded end of the nozzle off and brazed it shut to make a plug. All of these solution work and accomplish the end goal of deleting the flame heater.

Personally, I didn't like any of those solutions so I made up a correct plug for the nozzle port. While I was at it I went ahead and made up a matching plug for the igniter port because I'm just weird about thing looking right and matching. Yes, I'm far too picky, and at my age I've given up trying to change that about myself.
I will have to pull mine and measure them to share then, I remember them fitting absolutely perfectly.
 

ToddJK

Well-known member
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4,518
113
Location
Sparta, MI
With fire extinguishers, bigger is indeed better. Take the biggest class A, B, C extinguisher you are willing and able to fit. Usually a 5 lbs or bigger. Personally, I recommend a 10lbs.
There is no point in throwing the extinguisher into the back of the tool cabinet and burying it under other stuff. When you need it, you REALLY need it. Take the time to mount it properly, ideally in the cab or somewhere where you can easily get it (and regularly see it, so you do not forget that it is there).

IF you suspect or confirm a fire, similar to @ToddJK, pull over, put parking brake on, shut engine off and switch off electrical. If you have a battery disconnect, disconnect that, too.

CALL 911 NOW!

It will take the fire department a few minutes to get to you and that will feel like an eternity. Dont delay getting them going. They rather give you an 'attaboy for having put the fire out than getting called late and being unable to save your truck.

Get access to whatever is burning. No use firing a fire extinguisher at the radiator from the outside....the agent won't make it into the engine compartment. Fortunately, the Deuce engine compartment is easily accessed with the side flaps. Hit the visible flames at their bottom, do not blindly spray into smoke or at stuff that is not on fire. It is ok to stop for a second and re-assess. A 10lbs extinguisher sprays continuously for 10-25 seconds; smaller extinguishers accordingly much shorter. You can stop the spray and pause at any time.

If the fire is electrical in nature and fizzles wires inside the cab/under the dash, you need to get the power disconnected. A battery disconnect is great, otherwise you need to pull the GROUND (-) off the battery. Yes, you can pull the short cable connecting the two batteries, but ground is safer because you will not arc against the frame when you do things quickly and excitedly.

In a TIRE fire, usually due to locked brakes - which you should figure out in an anemic Deuce wayyyyyy before any trouble occurs - you have bad cards to start with. A 5lbs extinguisher will kill the fire but the heated mass of the tire with the steel belting inside is hot enough to re-ignite as soon as oxygen gets to it.
There have been cases where "driving the burning tire off the rim" has been successful - i.e. drive until the tire falls off. I do not recommend this; it might still torch your truck and you may also light a mile of grassland on fire as you drive along, spewing burning debris. Not a super likely scenario on a Deuce.

In summary,
- get a class ABC fire extinguisher, 5lbs or bigger, 10 lbs is good
- mount it where you can get to it and see it (so you do not forget to have it tested every couple of years)
- think about how you would use it and "go through the motions". Mental preparedness reduces stress and automates your response.
Fully agree. I ordered 3 more fire extinguishers, one 5lb and two 2.5 lb so I can keep one in the cab, one in my tool box, and one in the back. What I learned the other day, you can't go overkill when it comes to fire protection. Imo, not only for myself, but also in case if I see someone else with a vehicle fire.
 

ToddJK

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Sparta, MI
I did start up the deuce today. Drove it around the block. I waited until I had new fire extinguishers first just in case, but everything went fine. No brake issues, no electrical issues and everything worked as normal. I'll get everything fixed, change out fuel filters, change oil and filters, new air filter, new injector lines, check trans and trans fluid, brake fluid, axle fluids, and this way I have next week to make sure everything is good before I head over to the Haspin Rally.
 

HanksDeuce

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I'm glad you were able to put that fire out and save your deuce. I don't have that flame heater on my Cummins 6BT swap. No grid heater either.

A rechargeable 10 lb ABC fire extinguisher can be purchased at Lowe's for $80 + tax. I have one in each vehicle, and a few in my house / shop. It's rated "4-A:60-B:C".

4A means it's equivalent to 5 gallons of water.
60B means it has enough coverage for 60 square feet.
C is for electrical fires, but there isn't a size rating for that.


I mounted this extinguisher to the driver side tool box with the provided bracket and quick release clamps. Although it looks like those are just (2) worm gear clamps, I assure you I can reach around towards the back and flip both quick releases and get that extinguisher off the toolbox in a few seconds. I just rotated the quick release straps away from prying eyes that might take it when I'm not looking.



 

HDN

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This could've been a lot worse! I'm glad you're safe and your truck didn't suffer a ton of damage!

Many car shows in my area require that a fire extinguisher be kept in the vehicle during the show, so I always carry one in the tool box. It's the last thing to go in so that I can easily access it.

Now that I've read the responses here I'm definitely going to check the size!
 

M35fan

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On the subject of fire extinguishers, it might have already been mentioned, but periodically you should take your extinguisher out, turn it upside down, and shake it really well. The powder inside will settle and clump up. I shake mine monthly on the first. Probably overkill, but it's easy to remember.
 

HDN

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Location
Finger Lakes Region, NY
On the subject of fire extinguishers, it might have already been mentioned, but periodically you should take your extinguisher out, turn it upside down, and shake it really well. The powder inside will settle and clump up. I shake mine monthly on the first. Probably overkill, but it's easy to remember.
I think they might need to be recharged every so often too? I remember seeing maintenance tags on some extinguishers having a Service By date on them. I really need to check mine so I don't get stuck with a dead one!
 

Godspeed131

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Haven’t been on in a bit, so I’m a little late to the party. I’m glad you and the family were ok and safe. Also glad the deuce is still intact, could have been much worse. You were prepared and you still have a driving truck to show for it. Now your even more prepared and I’m glad my old truck is in good hands.
 
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