My first 6.2 swap thread

[Chunk ball]

So I have this 86 m1031 flatbed.

Oil cooler lines came unhooked due to improper setup—engine is locked. Flat towed it with my e350 to my friend’s shop. He has cherry pickers and a gantry we can use.

If anyone knows a step by step engine pull thread to reference that would be super cool. Any hints and tips are appreciated of course!

That being said, I am going to try to rebuild the engine given that it isn’t too screwed up. If it is a boat anchor I am thinking It would be cool to find a 6.5 TD as a replacement. I am wondering what a reasonable price for a running 6.5 is... they have them on “govplanet” but I am not sure how that site even works. There are running 6.5 trucks on CL for 2500-3000ish.

For reference- my truck has 24volt set up with a gear reduction starter. It has the TH400 and NP205 with PTO removed. Glow plug system is wired to a button switch instead of key switch. Trans, body, axles, tires and frame are in great shape- why I want to keep the truck on the road.

Pictures soon. Thanks for your time!

 

[nyoffroad]

If the engine is locked up forget it, it's not worth rebuilding as every moving part will have damage.
As far as a step by step R&I of the engine, look in the TM (maybe?) or buy a 'how to' book at Auto Zone or online that covers 84 Chevy pick ups .

 

[Chunk ball]

Here is an example of some nearby options...

This Blazer, says engine runs fine. Texted guy and he said he can’t get it started up, though. Body and cab are all shot. Axles probably good. $1500. Don’t know if that’s a good deal for something that might be total risk.

 

[antennaclimber]

"If anyone knows a step by step engine pull thread to reference that would be super cool. Any hints and tips are appreciated of course!"


Try this thread.
6.2 Removal Guide

 

[Chunk ball]

Try this thread.
6.2 Removal Guide

Perfect thanks so much.

 

[Barrman]

The Technical Manuals also list it out step by step.

 

[Chunk ball]

Update

Picking up new rebuilt engine this week

I have a few questions about my oil and trans cooler situation... I took a few pictures of where they attach to the radiator. The metal ones going across the fan side are not there. And there is an external cooler installed in front.

A lot seems to be missing or wrong from what I am familiar with from the tons of threads on oil cooling on the site. What do y’all suggest? I know I need the Dorman oil cooler lines

Passengers side top down view

Driver’s side

The lines on the driver side going to that little radiator cooler came unhooked by the coolant jug. What is the proper set up for this old 6.2?

 

[Chunk ball]

View attachment 864431
View attachment 864429
Passengers side top down view
View attachment 864434
Driver’s side

I got a few questions for the gurus out there. Since I am missing the aluminum radiator crossover cooler lines, should I go ahead and order this set along with the good ole dorman lines (part numbers 625-155&625-154)

After installing those parts, should I just ditch the external radiator cooler? I am confused about how the owner of the truck before me had set up the oil cooling system seeing that the original parts are not there.

Second question — the engine I am swapping to is from a civvy suburban. So that means it is set up 12V.
Is it possible to convert it with my old pulleys and belts and alternators from the original busted engine to make it work with all my 24V system? I know I can convert the whole truck to 12V but I’d rather keep it original.


Thanks for any input.
Can’t wait to get it rippin again

 

[reloader64]

Answer #2- Yes, you can put your old alternators and starter on this engine.

Scott

 

[nyoffroad]

Answer for both is yes, order #2 and #25 from Hillbilly but before hooking them up get a spray can of auto transmission cooler flush and flush the oil cooler in the Rad and Hillbilly's lines. The last thing you want on a new engine is finding old contaminates in the cooler!
All the alternator brackets from the civvie engine will bolt right up, make sure you hang onto brackets like air conditioning and the throttle/TV cable bracket. Lable them and keep or list on ebay, some of that stuff is getting hard to find and $$$. Who knows, maybe you'll want to install AC someday.

 

[nyoffroad]

OH YEAH, I forgot about the power steering pump, if the civvie does have A/C then the engine may have a remote PS reservoir mounted up near the intake manifold. Ifso save and use that! Much easier to fill then the one mounted down on the pump. If you don't use it, it makes a nice hydraulic pump/reservoir for a small tractor or whatever.

 

[911joeblow]

Best time to install a Paradox cooling upgrade kit while you are in there too

 

[Keith_J]

Keep the old injection pump if it was running. You may need it.

 

[ssdvc]

Keep the old injection pump if it was running. You may need it.

Yes, keep it (or ship it to me, I need a spare). But, if keeping it as a spare, don't have it rebuilt until you need it. Shelve life hurts these things.

 

[Keith_J]

Yes, keep it (or ship it to me, I need a spare). But, if keeping it as a spare, don't have it rebuilt until you need it. Shelve life hurts these things.

Flush with clean mineral spirits, then plug or cap all openings. Seal in double bags.

 

[andyh1956]

If your new engine was a Serp settup you need to use your old water pump as well/

 

[Chunk ball]

Update. Got the busted motor out. Thanks for all the replies. I’m definitely keeping all the spare parts that I can. Just in case.

New questions. Old radiator looks pretty busted. I can post some pictures when I get back there. Should I just go with a new radiator and if so what is a good affordable set up? Keep in mind, my truck had been tampered with and had an external trans cooler installed to the front of the radiator. So it’s missing those aluminum lines that go across the back of the radiator in front of the fan.

Something I learned-since my engine is seized and cannot turn it over, I can’t rotate the crank to remove the torque converter. Well, I just pulled it with the torque converter still attached to the flex plate and it came out just fine.

 

[Chunk ball]

Here’s what she looks like. What do you guys think? You can see how the previous owner installed the trans cooler (why my engine blew up)

 

[nyoffroad]

I had forgotten about this thread! Yeah time for a new rad, gonna be about $400 or so. The last 2 I bought have been the plastic/aluminum ones and haven't had a problem with either. I'd ditch that external cooler as I don't believe the oil needs it, I would save it and maybe use it for a tranny cooler for towing.
Nows a great time to look over that flex plate for worn teeth, do NOT use the new one without counting the teeth! Flexplates/flywheels changed between 1984 and 85, I learned the hard way. Ummm, thats about all till I remember something else!

 

[ssdvc]

I had mine recored. Up here, it cost me about $1000, but I couldn't find a new B850 radiator anywhere for less than $1600. Plus, the original Copper and Brass units do a very good job of cooling.

Initially I did purchased an aluminum replacement off fleabay. It took me a while, but I finally got the fitment issues sorted for it. However, during installation, I stripped one of the transmission cooler line bungs on the radiator and didn't have the time to get it repaired. It now sits on the shelf in my garage, which sucks.

As for the aluminum lines for the oil cooler, Hillbilly Wizard may have a used set. Maybe one of the parts houses (NAPA, Autozone, RockAuto, etc). If not, time for a custom hose setup.